Love rose ceramics Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 I’m drawing with underglaze pencil on green ware mugs I’ve slipcast. Then I take the bisqueware and add more pencil as well as some watered down underglaze for a painterly effect. I’m dipping in clear glaze and firing to 1200. But the underglaze is running/ smudging downwards when fired. please can someone advise as I don’t find that much on the web. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 I think that's kind of how the underglaze pencils behave, at least every time I've seen them used they do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 The glaze picks up a bit of the underglaze. If the glaze runs the underglaze will run with it. A stiffer clear glaze will keep the underglaze from bleeding.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 I solved a similar problem by a re-bisque firing before dipping in clear glaze. The water in the glaze was the cause of the bleeding of the underglaze applied to the bisqued surface. The bleeding was not visible until after the firing. The second bisque “set” the underglaze. LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted July 13, 2019 Report Share Posted July 13, 2019 setfireing underglazes as noted above is the cure for sure. I recall this from collage in low fire class in 1973. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted July 13, 2019 Report Share Posted July 13, 2019 Found as Neil but culprit usually had cobalt or iron in it if ran. Why not go painterly on your greeware. Save a firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 13, 2019 Report Share Posted July 13, 2019 13 hours ago, Magnolia Mud Research said: I solved a similar problem by a re-bisque firing before dipping in clear glaze. The water in the glaze was the cause of the bleeding of the underglaze applied to the bisqued surface. The bleeding was not visible until after the firing. The second bisque “set” the underglaze. LT Not necessarily. All of my underglazes go through bisque before glazing, but my glaze moves enough to make them bleed a bit (which I do on purpose). If I stiffen up my glaze, they won't bleed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Love rose ceramics Posted July 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2019 Thank you for the advice. So what I’m seeing is to either re bisque after drawing and painting or to thicken my clear glaze. I’m dipping so I worry if it’s too thick it will dull the drawing but I shall experiment with both suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Love rose ceramics Posted July 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2019 15 hours ago, neilestrick said: The glaze picks up a bit of the underglaze. If the glaze runs the underglaze will run with it. A stiffer clear glaze will keep the underglaze from bleeding.. Will try that. Thank you. I’m using a dipping glaze so I’ll remove some water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Love rose ceramics Posted July 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2019 14 hours ago, Magnolia Mud Research said: I solved a similar problem by a re-bisque firing before dipping in clear glaze. The water in the glaze was the cause of the bleeding of the underglaze applied to the bisqued surface. The bleeding was not visible until after the firing. The second bisque “set” the underglaze. LT So maybe to save work I should bisque mugs, then draw and paint in one just need to be careful not to smudge, then re - bisque and then dip clear and glaze high fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted July 13, 2019 Report Share Posted July 13, 2019 Or apply the design at the bone dry stage; then only one bisque is required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted July 13, 2019 Report Share Posted July 13, 2019 2 hours ago, Love rose ceramics said: Will try that. Thank you. I’m using a dipping glaze so I’ll remove some water To make a stiffer glaze that doesn't move (and pull the underglaze with it) the recipe of the glaze needs to change, not the amount of water used to mix it up. It needs to stiffen up so it's not as fluid, adding alumina is the usual way to do this, kaolin (epk should work) is a good source of alumina and is in many glazes already. Are you using a commercial glaze or mixing your own? For 100 grams of dry glaze you could try adding 2 grams of epk, mix it up and dip a test tile with your underglaze pencil on it (either on bisqued on or not). Add another 2 grams of epk and repeat with another test tile. Keep doing this until you've added 10 grams of epk. If you are using bottled wet glaze then do the same thing but weigh out the liquid so you can replicate the results, I'ld start with 150 grams of wet glaze. If necessary silica can be added also but I'ld try it just with epk first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 14, 2019 Report Share Posted July 14, 2019 14 hours ago, Love rose ceramics said: Will try that. Thank you. I’m using a dipping glaze so I’ll remove some water Stiffer in the firing, not in application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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