Help: Used Shimpo pk2 vs newish Brent model B?

[MuddyLady]

Hi. I'm relatively new to pottery. (Took a wheel class and got addicted.) I have three kilns at home because my husband does cast glass...so I want a wheel. I have someone selling a Shimpo (pk2?) for $275 that is well used but she says it throws well. The splash pan does not come off. I also have someone selling a Brent model B that was purchased new but never really used because the girl didn't have a kiln. It'bs been sitting in storage a couple years. She'll sell it for $550. 

Thoughts? I'd appreciate any input! Thank you!

[Mark C.]

The shimpo has a cone drive and is a bit clunky compared to the newer models of most wheels that do not use a rubber cone, but a direct motor drive with a belt as they are easier to operate like in the model B Brent. Some folks love the cone drive others do not. (I fall into the do not )

Make an lower $offer on that Brent wheel-I feel its the best choice and will have better resale value and work easier. 

[neilestrick]

I'd go for the Brent, however the model B doesn't have a lot of power. If you mostly make smaller pieces it will work fine. Like Mark said, offer less.

[Stephen]

One thing I would add to Neil's comment on size (since you mentioned you are new to pottery and Neil is a professional studio potter and teacher) is that what he considers smaller pieces and what you consider smaller pieces may not add up to the same thing. That wheel specs at 150 lbs throwing weight (continuously), although it likely does loose some torque at some point below that.   

Here's a nice chart for consideration:

Lakeside Chart of Clay Weights

[Pres]

I own a CXC by brent, but when I was in college I worked on a C and on a B at Penn State.  As others have said, the B is a bit under powered, but I was able to use it well as long as I did not try to rush a pot. . . .especially a big one. It takes a little longer to center, and open up, but as in most cases once those power intensive steps are done you can pull and shape, trim and finish pretty well. A few tips when centering especially on a lower powered wheel:

• spiral wedge your clay and place the cone up.
• slap the clay into the center first while wheel is turning  slowly with both hands.
• Use water liberally to center, and open up.
• Don't muscle the clay to center, let the movement of the wheel do most of the work, but treat it firmly.
• After opening up, cut back on the water to keep the clay from getting too soft in the pulling and shaping stages.

All in all, these help with the use of any wheel, but will be especially useful with a B.

 

best of luck,

Pres

[neilestrick]

I find it interesting that Brent has switched from listing centering capacity to listing continuous capacity. Continuous capacity means nothing. The issue is how much torque the wheel has, and whether or not it slows down when applying a lot of pressure on the wheel, like during centering. Yes, you can put 150 pounds of clay on a model B and it will still rotate, but it'll take you a really long time to center 15 pounds on it.  It'll most likely slow down a bit with anything over 8-10 pounds, however if you're like most people making functional pots, 99% of what you make is under 5 pounds and it'll be just fine for that.