Jump to content

Making terra cotta bricks


Peter Angel

Recommended Posts

Dear all, i want to carve some bricks while they are soft, then sun dry them,  then fire them extra slowly,  then carve the detail into the well fired brick.

I've researched this and all the instructions tell me to dig up natural clay. I can't do this as i live in the city and i don't have land to dig.

Would it work if i buy some terra cotta powder and silica sand, add water, and mix it thoroughly? 

Regards, Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would use bagged terracotta sculptural clay which should include grog.

I would also make your bricks a little thinner than conventional store bought bricks.  Commercial bricks are made and fired a little differently, which means they can get away with things we can't.  Have a look at African fired bricks or Roman brickwork for ideas about how to make them in a more potter friendly way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes. You might look at some old brick making techniques to give you some ideas. My brother makes wooden molds for custom shapes of bricks, fills them with clay, then wires the excess clay from the top of the mold. The clay he uses is Redart for the color, sand as an aggregate/adds a coarse texture, and some ball clay for plasticity. I fire them to cone 04 and he uses them like regular bricks. The bricks when installed act like a crown molding/baseboard trim. It’s inefficient but it makes his home unique. Adding some type of coarse material will improve the drying properties of clay. Also, I’m not sure why you would add further detail after the clay is fired, it is easier to work with when plastic and holds detail very well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On November 5, 2017 at 7:13 PM, glazenerd said:

* 5-15% grog can be added to either recipe

here is a recipe for standard red brick (cone 04)

50% silica , 25% Hawthorne Bond, 25% a Red Art

and here is a recipe for (cone 04) red body clay

50% Red Art, 15% Hawthorne Bond, 25% OM4, 5% silica! and 10% talc. ( from Alfred U)

 

 

Nerd

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

These are from my Architectural ceramics Handouts when I taught Architectural ceramics workshops.  

Marcia

Chip Clauson's Freeze Proof Terra Cotta

                                     Batch        %

Hawthorne Fire Clay      20       9

C and C Ball                    50        21

Red Art                            100      43

Talc                                   15         6

Muddox Grog                   50        21

.5 Barium Carbonate 

Alfred's Terra Cotta

Ocmulgee      25%

Red Art         25

PBX    Fire Clay  20

Calvert               10

Neph. Syen.        5

Talc                     5

Silica                   10

for handbuilding add 10% fine grog

   Terra Cotta    ^06 to ^02

Red Art                100

Gold Art                 40

Ocmulgee               40

Talc                        17

Sand                       12

200 pound + batch  dissolve 3/4 cup of barium carb. on water and add to batch

Carrie Esser Red Sculpture clay  ^04

Goldart           15

Red Art           40

Hawthorne      20

Talc                    5

Neph. Syen.       5

Wollastonite     15

Grog                  20

Barium Carb      1  dissolve first

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume you want to make bricks like this one that a fellow potter made  that says Blue Lake block.

This was fired to cone 10 very slowly

Its a bit more durable than terra cotta  ones

I think what Tyler says-add plenty of course grog at least 20%. Fire very slowly.

The one here is standard size when fired.

The one below it is from Nelson New Zealand-Hand carried it home in the 90s.Xray folks all wanted to see it at every airport.

IMG_3667.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chris Berti's artist statement,images carved from vintage ceramic brick and drainage pipe" It must be easier to sculpt them out of clay, unless of course you are a stonemason? The lady with the melanoma's looks like you could add a lot of combustable material to the super groggy clay and have it burn out leaving those deep pits and craters. Looks like the female torso is  "Volcanic scoria basalt sculpture" by Jon Dixon, from a google search.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Hello all,

I have made a brick mould.

It's made of wood and I keep it wet before adding my clay.

I'm using an ancient roman brick recipe of 60% terracotta powder and 40% fine river sand...(river sand has minimal shell in the sand).

I works really well and the brick mold lifts straight up leaving a perfectly formed brick.  

Here is a you tube video that shows the concept. My mold is less wet than his. I let it drain for a minute. It's closer to damp than wet.

 

The big problem I am having is the wet clay brick sticks to the bottom wooden board.  Even after 3 days it's still stuck.

Any solutions?

Pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have options-you could

Talc powder the board first .

Cover the board with piece of canvas and have a few for when they get to wet.

Use cement board (tile setting substrate-like hardiboard) on bottom board

move to the desert. Barstow is cheap and hot

I can add some other but this is a start

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, Peter Angel said:

The big problem I am having is the wet clay brick sticks to the bottom wooden board.  Even after 3 days it's still stuck.

Any solutions?

 

Wire them off with a heavy cut off wire after they have set up a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, Peter Angel said:

Thanks for your help.

Mark C, if I use dry canvas, will the bottom of the brick pick up the texture weave of the canvas ?

Pete

 

Yes -but you can buy slab Matt bless from the manufacture and they leave no texture.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.