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Red Clay


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13 hours ago, Min said:

Another approach would be to use Barnard to give you the colour. There is a recipe on this link, I've seen some of Mary Fox's work, the slip is very dark and smooth. (that's one of her pots on the link). If you took out some of the Barnard I think you would have a nice rich dark brown. If you give it a go I would suggest mixing it with 30 Barnard, brush on a test piece, add 5 more Barnard and brush on another test and so forth until you get up to the 45 as called for in the original recipe. The original Barnard is long since discontinued but there are substitutes available. (it does contain Manganese so usual cautions about firing fumes and safety)

Thank you for the link. When you say taking out some of the Barnard do you mean replacing the portion of the recipe with the red clay? Thanks

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8 hours ago, BlackDogPottery said:

Thank you for the link. When you say taking out some of the Barnard do you mean replacing the portion of the recipe with the red clay? Thanks

I would try it just by decreasing the barnard to get the colour more brown than black. Could also try replacing it in proportion with your red clay with another set of test tiles, should come up with something interesting. Your glaze looks great! 

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1 hour ago, Babs said:

so this is your 3:2 mang:red clay slip?

how does it react with a glaze over it?

I haven't applied a glaze over it yet but I imagine it would be incredibly rich and runny. May have to try that. This is more of a slip that can be used for decoration by itself, not close to food or drink. If you happen to have the edge of the slip touch the edge of the glaze it runs beautifully together.

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5 hours ago, Babs said:

Stoneware so you're going to what cone?

you've made a beautiful surface on your pots!

does the slipglaze move much?

Thank you. This is a cold cone 6.  For the running so far it depends. At 1 coat it doesn't run but its not as smooth. 2 heavy-ish coats or 3 light coats the sweet spot. It does move some but it doesn't look like drip, more of a slight sag at the base where it collects.  So I would set a kiln cookie under it for your first trial. Another test I did with 1:1 ratios sagged slightly more which is a surprise as you would think more clay would equal more stability. 

%60 Manganese Dioxide

%40 Red Clay

%75 Water 

 

 

 

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there is an attractive bronze effect

3:1 mang. dioxide: Black copper oxide just mixed with water I use sometimes on leatherhard, bisque or onglaze, couple of coats, or thick , need to keep stirring so clay may lessen need for that, so I may try the above with clay ratio.

thanks

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7 hours ago, Biglou13 said:

joseph.....   you should play  lizella   its practically a local clay for you !!!!   a bet less iron than red art   but ive got some amazing results with it

 

I will get some next time I am at my suppliers. Apparently they carry it. It apparently has a much higher top temp then red art though so not how sure it will be at cone 6 but its worth a shot.

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  • 4 months later...
On 10/30/2017 at 8:35 AM, BlackDogPottery said:

Thank you. This is a cold cone 6.  For the running so far it depends. At 1 coat it doesn't run but its not as smooth. 2 heavy-ish coats or 3 light coats the sweet spot. It does move some but it doesn't look like drip, more of a slight sag at the base where it collects.  So I would set a kiln cookie under it for your first trial. Another test I did with 1:1 ratios sagged slightly more which is a surprise as you would think more clay would equal more stability. 

%60 Manganese Dioxide

%40 Red Clay

%75 Water 

 

 

 

Not sure how you're applying, but if you're dipping you might consider finishing that last coat not all the way down.....keep it thinner there to avoid the sag.  

 

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@Ceallach It's brushing on greenware. Yes, at first I was going light towards the bottom  but after while I could eyeball it and so far (knocking on wood) it hasn't ran even when I applied it thickly at 3 coats total. 

However it will run if you substitute the clay for Kaolin. Been there, done that and wouldn't anyone else having to grind it off their shelves.

You can substitute the clay for Yellow Ochre though. The surface will be a flat black with slight sheen, it doesn't run but brush strokes will still show.  If you get steel wool you can really polish the surface on all these variations after firing. The more you buff it  the more it looks like graphite or super clean cast-iron.

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