TypicalGirl Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 I added an additional peep hole to my kiln and need a plug for it. Standard ones don't work because there's an inch or so gap between the kiln brick and the exterior steel jacket. I've tried cutting one from soft brick, but it crumbles when I try and get it as long and narrow as I need it. I've rolled up a piece of kiln fiber, but it degrades every time i remove it and I really don't want to work with that stuff more than I need to. can I make one from grogged cone 10/11 stoneware? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 If ou can find any vermiculite or sawdust, you could mix it with some grog and a stoneware clay. Add about 30%. Then build some peep hole plugs. You might want to bisque them. If so, make them about 5% larger. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 I added an additional peep hole to my kiln and need a plug for it. Standard ones don't work because there's an inch or so gap between the kiln brick and the exterior steel jacket. I've tried cutting one from soft brick, but it crumbles when I try and get it as long and narrow as I need it. I've rolled up a piece of kiln fiber, but it degrades every time i remove it and I really don't want to work with that stuff more than I need to. can I make one from grogged cone 10/11 stoneware? Ahh-round or square peep hole? I have made thrown plugs using a cone 10 clay for my cone 6 firings, also used and extruder for square plugs at school. However, those were easiest with a piece of carved soft fire brick. You can also use a piece of soft firebrick to carve a round one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benhim Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 I'm sure you don't have a bag of ciment fondu laying around, but you can make a durable plug using fireclay, grog, wood shavings, ciment fondu. I've used this recipe as follows as a cheap rammable refractory. It's durable enough to make parts out of it, I've even made an arch out of it, but I don't recommend an arch with out using stainless steel needles. I used pine shavings the last time which worked well when I soaked them in water prior to adding to the mixture. 2 Fireclay 2 Course Grog 2 Course Sawdust 1 Ciment Fondu There's probably an easier way, but that's how I do it because I've got experience with the materials and I can make any shape I want. Mixing just enough water to make a moist snowball like consistency will allow the material to be rammed into a form. It will dry quickly, so making very slightly wetter than actually desired will help. The Ciment Fondu sets quickly with an initial full strength in 24 hours. Ciment Fondu is also an iron bearing product of fairly low grade. Secar 41 and Secar 71 are both better products, however Ciment Fondu is usually cheap and in my case that's been the deciding factor in my projects. If you decide to make something out of a castable cement this paper might help with some parameters. http://www.secar.net/documents/TP_GB_RE_LAF_073.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arnold Howard Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 I've tried cutting one from soft brick, but it crumbles when I try and get it as long and narrow as I need it. Have you tried shaping a firebrick with a sanding block? I've seen small, delicate plugs formed that way successfully. After you have shaped the plug, coat it with kiln cement and then remove most of the cement. That will add surface strength. Sincerely, Arnold Howard Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 I've tried cutting one from soft brick, but it crumbles when I try and get it as long and narrow as I need it. Have you tried shaping a firebrick with a sanding block? I've seen small, delicate plugs formed that way successfully. After you have shaped the plug, coat it with kiln cement and then remove most of the cement. That will add surface strength. Sincerely, Arnold Howard Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com Good idea with the kiln cement Arnold, I'll have to remember that one. I do make peep hole plugs with soft firebrick, but they are weak. The kiln cement should give them more strength. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 Start out with a K-28 / G-28 insulating firebrick. It is far less crumbly and structurally more durable than the more typical 23 or 26 that most potters use. Rough it out with a tree bow saw (best IFB cutting tool ever!). Then as Arnold says, use a sanding block to fine tune the shape and cover with a thin layer of a good air/heat setting refractory mortar. Put that mortar on the inside of the peep HOLE also. Keeps it from eroding over time. best, .....................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arnold Howard Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 Start out with a K-28 / G-28 insulating firebrick. It is far less crumbly and structurally more durable than the more typical 23 or 26 that most potters use. Rough it out with a tree bow saw (best IFB cutting tool ever!). Then as Arnold says, use a sanding block to fine tune the shape and cover with a thin layer of a good air/heat setting refractory mortar. Put that mortar on the inside of the peep HOLE also. Keeps it from eroding over time. John, those are great ideas. My favorite sanding block is a piece of sheet metal with a handle welded to one side and self-adhesive sandpaper attached to the other. You can make any size you need. I believe we use 36 grit sandpaper. Sincerely, Arnold Howard Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 Thanks Arnold. I'm a professional kiln builder since the mid 70's.......... so have a few tricks up my sleeve. For finer roughing out of IFB, after using a bow saw, a Surform tool is great too. They come in various configurations (including round tubes) and the holes in the lath/mesh are such that they don't plug up all that easily. And they stay useable (sharp enough) for a reasonable lenght of time too. I always wet the IFB before cutting too.... helps keep the dust down. Oh, I forgot to mention above for the less experienced folks reading this .... WEAR a well fitting HEPA (P-100) respirator when cutting/sanding ANY refractory material. And some eye protection too. best, ....................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HerbNorriss Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 I must say, this is one of the most amazing threads I've ever read on this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 agreed! because we are talking about it, could you folks with extensive libraries of old ceramics monthly magazines find the issue that discussed making kiln furniture? it was back in the 70s and if i remember, michael cardew was one of the folks involved. maybe not, but it was a good article about making posts that would stand up to cone 10 temps. i would like to make some posts for my cone 6 electric kiln if they would not be cost prohibitive. has anyone done this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 sorry! just remembered that michael cardew was talking about making screw tops for bottles in the article i remember from the 70s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benhim Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 In Michael Cardew's book Pioneer Pottery, he explains how to make saggars in good detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minspargal Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 You might want to check the Clayart archives, i believe someone posted a recipe for making your own kiln furniture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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