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Raku Gloves: Pbi Vs Kevlar Vs Kevlar/pbi Blend


Isculpt

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I'm finally ready to buy gloves that protect against flames and hot pots better than leather welders gloves.  After researching PBI, Kevlar, and a PBI/Kevlar blend, I'm confused by all the options. The gloves will be used once or twice a month to remove very hot pots from a flaming "pit" fire.  Any advice regarding material, manufacturer or retailer would be welcome.

Jayne

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I do not do any raku.

When i do pit firers i use 18" welding gloves and i have a few different types of tongs.  I mostly use tongs to touch the pots, but sometimes i do grab them with my gloves.

When you think about gloves your only going to be able to touch a pot for so long before the glove will need a cool off time that will be much longer than when you touched the pot.

When you look at the materials don't forget about the flexibility when new and how much heat they will take over a prolonged period of time before the flexibility or heat protection starts to degrade.

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For the money I use these-they will wear out faster than leather wielding but are more cool.

I only use leather when rough handling hard bricks that are glowing

I use these axner ones for all other things with heat

http://www.axner.com/kevlarcono-guardglovessetof2.aspx

 

I have used them for decades and wear a pair out every 5 years.

 

The Dirt Poor links are good ones as well they just will make you Dirt Poor after you buy them

 

Marcia does lots of Raku wait to see what she says-She is across the pond still.

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Thanks, all of you.

 

Dirt Poor: I was pretty impressed at how high a temperature the Galeton gloves can handle - 2,000 briefly, 1500 continuously.   Jawpot's comments about considering how long before flexibility and heat protection start to degrade makes me wonder how those Galetons are holding up for you?

 

Mark, do I understand correctly that the Kevlar Cono-Guard gloves that you use the most are less protection against heat than the leather welding gloves?  My leather welding gloves are like these at Axner ( http://www.axner.com/leather-welders-gloves-set-of-2.aspx), and in the 60 or so seconds that it takes to rearrange a pot or sculpture in the fire or to lift it out, my hands get REAL uncomfortable!!

 

Jayne

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Thanks, all of you.

 

Dirt Poor: I was pretty impressed at how high a temperature the Galeton gloves can handle - 2,000 briefly, 1500 continuously.   Jawpot's comments about considering how long before flexibility and heat protection start to degrade makes me wonder how those Galetons are holding up for you?

 

Mark, do I understand correctly that the Kevlar Cono-Guard gloves that you use the most are less protection against heat than the leather welding gloves?  My leather welding gloves are like these at Axner ( http://www.axner.com/leather-welders-gloves-set-of-2.aspx), and in the 60 or so seconds that it takes to rearrange a pot or sculpture in the fire or to lift it out, my hands get REAL uncomfortable!!

 

Jayne

 

 

They hold up great...as long as you don't forget how hot the flames coming out of the top of a kiln can be. I cooked her last set screwing around with the top and the gloves went directly in the flames for way too long. They burnt but I didn't feel a thing...which is why they burnt. I still use them (they became "mine" once I toasted them, I insisted on buying her a few new pairs just in case....cause you'll never know when I'll... :D )

 

 

 

 

 

The Dirt Poor links are good ones as well they just will make you Dirt Poor after you buy them

.

 

 

Lol, depends on how you look at it. I can't afford to replace her (and she's the heart of our business). :lol:

 

That's actually a good price as I've seen them for $175. Here's some even cheaper but I don't know how they compare to ours (Zetex "Plus").

 

https://www.zoro.com/zetex-heat-resistant-gloves-tan-zetexplus-pr-2100039/i/G4828853/?gclid=CN63toPvic8CFYs2gQodXLIIHA&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

 

With those gauntlets and a full face clear shield you won't feel anything (as long as your torso is covered)

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Jayne I'm not rakuing with these-If I was rakuing I would get the ones in Dirt Poors links.

I'm working hot spy plugs on a reduction kiln and a salt kiln. I move hot burners around  with a pipe wrench and use these gloves-they are ver light and comfortable

If I had hot pots to grab get the higher temp ones 

What I have found is I need at least two types of gloves for kiln work-for me it leather and these .

for rake get the higher temp ones with the long cuffs-the full suit is also a good idea as well as a face shield 

Marcia uses all this stuff as well

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Here's the gauntlet covers. I'd use these if grabbing pots directly. The idea is that it gives you another layer of protection, makes the more expensive gautlets last longer and keeps marks off the pots. (if you don't grab anything else with them). We were finding stuff getting on the gloves from other things and that left marks on the pots when you grabbed them.

 

:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078RD5PA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

A long time ago we bought surplus military high heat zetex mittens in New Jersery somewhere for $5 a pair. I should have cleaned the guy out but she wouldn't let me buy any more. She didn't want the gauntlets either as we already had the $5 mittens but I bought them anyway ( the ones I burnt up). She insisted she didn't want the face shield either but now she won't do a firing without them. A full suit is cool but expensive. I wear my old  motorcycle jacket if it's cool enough outside or my old flame retardant race jacket if it's hot. I don't worry about bursting into flames as much as I just use it as a buffer against the heat.

 

If you sign up for Galeton's email they'll send you coupon codes after you visit their site a few times. They have GREAT customer service too.

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zetex plus 

I use these because I need to pull large slabs out of the kiln without tongs. 

They are anywhere from $90/pr to 150. 

You can search for good prices. They have a 30 seconds before heat penetration.

When working with tongs, kevlar gloves are fine  or Radnor blue welding gloves last longer.

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=marcia+selsor+raku+youtube&view=detail&mid=C2A31C74A77A49EA5CE8C2A31C74A77A49EA5CE8&FORM=VIRE

 

 

Marcia

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zetex plus 

I use these because I need to pull large slabs out of the kiln without tongs. 

They are anywhere from $90/pr to 150. 

You can search for good prices. They have a 30 seconds before heat penetration.

When working with tongs, kevlar gloves are fine  or Radnor blue welding gloves last longer.

 

 

 

Marcia

 

 

Looks like the same gauntlets as ours; covers too. Where'd you get the apron? That's looks like a good compromise for her (I'd still have to wear my jacket for sentimental reasons though)

 

 

Zetex Plus it is.

 

Marcia,I really enjoyed your video. I've never seen the Raku process on that work that large. Do you have other videos on YouTube?

 

Jayne

 

 

 

 

I like big raku too. If I ever get back on track and finish my monster build I'll be able to do 30"X45" panels.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was able to get a very used fireman's jacket (make friends with a fireman, they Love controlled burns!) that I wear when loading/unloading raku. They get too worn out for even practice fireman training but handle raku temps easily. When I have large-sized guest raku-ers, they wear the jacket backwards.

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I got my apron and chaps at Golden recycling  in Billings, MT. about 15 years ago. My friend got a jacket but the jackets were too large for me. 

I have a online course beginning on Monday that is 6 weeks of videos and interaction with students by chat room. 

Here is an intro to the course.

https://www.facebook.com/TeachinArt/videos/1191030490968303/?pnref=story

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I don't like getting burned or losing eye lashes. I got my chaps and apron at a recycle center. I am happy to have them. I need them when I am picking up slabs with this high temp gloves. It is ****ing hot!

I think I would really like a heat shield helmet rather than a wet scarf.

Marcia

 

 

This is what we use (better manufacturer though): http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Clear-Professional-Face-Shield-90028-80025/202195394

 

Make sure you pull the lower end all the way in to your chest or smoke may get under the shield which is not fun. Other than that you won't feel anything.

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