Looking For A Specific Clay Body

[Clay Table Codey]

Hey all, 

 

Im looking to start a studio from scratch, build out an aesthetic and eventually sell online. 

I'm interested in a more premium dinnerware plating look. Coming from a throwing body. 

I don't know if there are any good white stonewares out there, that have a little iron in them and a bit of a pepper or speckle too? 

I know that may be a lot to ask in one body, but didn't know if I just haven't searched the right company yet, or someone might have some answers here for me. 
 

Thanks for taking the time!

 

Codey

[bciskepottery]

There are a few nationally distributed clays, but many more regionally distributed ones.  Knowing where you are would be helpful in making recommendations.  Also, what firing temperature and what firing environment (electric, salt/soda, wood, natural gas, propane, etc.).

[alabama]

Hey,

First, this isn't my field of expertise... But having said that,

here is what I'd do if I were you.

 

If by chance you're looking at clay mfgs for a clay, I'd do a search

thru Bing or Google (Bing preferred), for "white stoneware clay with

manganese". Use quotations. If nothing shows up, I'd contact a clay

company direct, starting with Trinity Clay out of Dallas, TX or

Florence, Ala and ask them about mixing their white stoneware with

manganese..

 

I guess if that didn't work, I'd Bing the question, " what's the ratio

for clay and manganese for speckled ceramic body". Then I'd mix

about 20 lbs. try it with manganese just to see a finished result.

 

Maybe this helped. I'm a red stoneware person, but I keep

some white stoneware on hand along with some Helios porcelain.

I also have 100 lbs. of Laguna WC608 Speckled clay, and a little

Highwater CraggyCrunch.

 

Good luck in your search.

Alabama

[Callie Beller Diesel]

You've described most white burning stoneware clays out of Plainsman, in Medicine Hat. I believe the speckle is predominantly from naturally occurring hematite, which is iron rather than manganese. (Less health hazard for you.). It's notable in oxidation atmospheres, but is much more pronounced in reduction.

[Marcia Selsor]

There are probably many suppliers that distribute such a clay. Rather than choose a brand label, I'd go for the most easily accessible. Depending on your location, do a search for local distributors and see what they have. The Potters Buying Guide from Acers is given out free annually at NCECA. If you don't have one, contact Pottery Making Illustrated to get a copy. It is a valuable resource.

 

Marcia

[Clay Table Codey]

Thank you all! Appreciate the quick responses! 
I'm starting from scratch moving from a production facility to building my own studio from the ground up! 
So I won't immediately have access to a pug mill, and or be interested right away in formulating my own body in Dry. So I'll be forced to buy Moist, but  
I have heard of Manganese infused clay bodies being a bit of a noxious to work with, so I'm hesitant, but still interested in its properties. 

 

Im located in Indianapolis, so practically right smack dab on top of Amaco, and they have a full Amaco distribution here, that they seem to be interested in growing. 
I have thrown Laguna Bmix^5, but have experienced certain glazes looking less brilliant/interesting on the Bmix compared to say a warmer, iron-rich buff clay body. 

 

That being said, I've narrowed my search to [Amaco No. 480 buff brown][standard 182 or 630 w/mullite] but they aren't quite what I want, and if I'm buying a palette of this stuff, I figure I better research as much as I can!

Oh and the body firing range is hopefully between ^5 and ^6, in an oxidation atmosphere. This is where I have most experience/research firing glazes! Diesel Clay is there a website that I can access that kind of body, with a decent images of the clay bodies properties? 

 

Standard C. has a great selection, but the photos online are treacherous HA! 

 

Any comments or suggestions welcome, I'm a newby, going out on my own for the first time, Thanks y'all

 

 

[Clay Table Codey]

Also The Laguna WC 608 would be perfect if it were white instead of Buff at the finish, I want a body that Celadons look bright and brilliant on, but also lends itself to some of these glazes that mimic that reduction firing look! IE. Coyote Light Shino, or Amaco Blue Rutile, etc. Working from home in Electric, so have to buy this stuff in bulk from Manufacturer. Oxidation Cone^5-^6. Thank You guys!

[Callie Beller Diesel]

http://plainsmanclays.com/newsampleboard.jpg

Www.plainsmanclays.com

 

It does, but you'll pay an arm and a leg in freight to Indiana from Southern Alberta, Canada. I posted that before I knew where you were.

 

Also, if you buy a ton of clay at a go, you can have most places custom mix for you. Surely there is a clay body closer to home that has iron contaminants, as opposed to needing to add manganese to anything.

[Clay Table Codey]

DANG! Looks like a great selection. 

& maybe I need to move to Canada!

Thanks for the help, I'll keep looking. 

[Callie Beller Diesel]

maybe I need to move to Canada!

 

 

We have cookies!! (And butter tarts.)

[Matt Oz]

 

maybe I need to move to Canada!

 

We have cookies!! (And butter tarts.)

 

I want poutine!!

[Callie Beller Diesel]

 

 

maybe I need to move to Canada!

 

We have cookies!! (And butter tarts.)

 

I want poutine!!

We have that too.

[Clay Table Codey]

Any thoughts from any body else here? Was wondering if there isn't some sort of black sand or iron rich sand that I could just wedge into clay before throwing?
No experience with that. just researched and found laguna has a WC leaning towards WC398 and WC-420 from Laguna. 

Is there a coarser granular Iron Pyrite you can add to a throwing body throw wedging..? 

Diesel Clay Thats sounds great, Matt I'll pick you up on the way. haha

Thanks for the help guys!

[bciskepottery]

If you are working at cone 5/6 range, I would not recommend Standard 182.  182 is a cone 6 to 10 range clay that does not mature until you hit cone 10.  At cone 6 you will have a high absorption rate that is not suitable for function ware.  Same for any of the other clays that are multi-range and cone 5/6 is at the low end of the firing range. 

 

If you plan to do functional work at cone 5/6, find a clay body that vitrifies at cone 5/6.  The last thing you want are customers returning mugs and vases because they weep.

 

You can get granular manganese, illmenite, and rutile to add to your clay body.  Or, just grind up some chunks of granite and other rocks and see what you get using native materials. 

[Joseph Fireborn]

You can always add sand to your clay to get it more natural looking. However your going to have to either have manly man hands, or throw with a sponge otherwise your gonna get cut to pieces centering and doing your first pulls. 

 

I have been experimenting with adding some sand to my clay scraps and turning it into sort of a mortar like a workshop I recently taken. Just be sure the sand doesn't have salt in it from the ocean. I read it can cause problems with glazes. I am not 100% on that though, just what I read somewhere.

[Clay Table Codey]

Thanks Guys! Im just looking for a speckle, what can I wedge into clay body before throwing that won't destroy my hands, or be overly noxious for my body?

Maybe this just isn't an option. 

Joseph and Bciske I appreciate the quick responses! I'm going to avoid manganese. I like the native materials idea tho!

Also I don't have incredibly manly hands, haha, But I do throw the initial stage of my pots pretty dry. I'm not much of a sponge guy, but maybe my aims will lead me into throwing with a sponge again!? 

Thanks all, I love learning about this stuff (: