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Everything posted by CactusPots

  1. One full turn of either dial is only about 1/16". I'd rather do it this way (I think), one pass in canvas to get the width and a second pass with the slab mats to finish it off. Makes for a nice square slab. I'm surprised Bailey doesn't put a handle like this on themselves since the connection is already there.
  2. Thanks for the freeback. I really need more than one firing with my new toy. The first time it seemed stable at lower temp, say 1600 to 2000, but jumped around over 2000. I could move the probe to the flue box. I'd have to drill 4" of castable refractory, and would want to remove it after every firing as the back of the kiln is more exposed to weather than the front.
  3. In order to roll a 24 x 24 slab, I guess at how much to cut off a block of commercial clay. Maybe 2 inches. The slab roller doesn't add much to the width of the rolled out clay, so the first pass is only to establish the width, so the slab roller is adjusted for maybe 1 1/4". The second pass rolls the clay the other way and is set for the final thickness. The change in adjustment from 1 1/4 to 1/4 is kind of a pain. Lots of quarter turns. Has anyone made a modification to the hand crank to change adjustment? I'd rather have that as an electric drive than the slab roller itself. That seems overly complicated though, maybe a larger wheel on the other end?
  4. I waited until I got the oxyprobe to measure the jacket and get the exact right size hole saw. The directions from Bailey say a 3/4" hole but in actuality a 11/16 was the perfect size. It fits smoothly and needs no packing. I get all my drill bits from a vendor on ebay called holehog. Second question about the probe in the flue box. At high temperatures is the reading more stable than in the kiln itself? My one firing with it the reading jumps around quite a bit.
  5. So, per my research and Bill's advice, my plug and play assembly is 2 separate units that have common download software. One unit is K thermocouples for my high and low thermocouples in my downdraft kiln. The second is for atmosphere by way of oxyprobe and gas pressure. The end result being a graph showing all 4 data points. The purpose being graphs giving comparisons between firings. I realize this is geek tech tool in the extreme. Also granting that it's not necessary and my firings are fine without it and I just want it to add an additional fun factor to my work, It's my way. Cool, huh? Oh, yeah, it'll run about $600. I probably won't pull the trigger until I have a new free standing sale. Hopefully the BS will end this year.
  6. At 1600, I run the gas needle straight up and then the only adjustment is to slowly back off the damper to cone 10
  7. Still thinking about charting my firings. Looking at the gas pressure gauge on my kiln, I rarely exceed 200" WC, so is there a pressure sensor specifically for propane or would I just use the common 0-100 psi gauge? Does a sensor like this require an external power supply to send a signal?
  8. I'm realizing I'm making more large pots than usual. Partly because of the slab roller, partly because it's just more fun. My electric kiln is going to take forever to get the job done, so I'm thinking about running a bisque load in the gas kiln. I've done it before, a couple of times, but wasn't satisfied as the top and bottom aren't even at sub 2000. In my normal glaze fire, reducing the damper causes the heat to back up and even out, so between 1600 and 2000 the difference between the top and bottom decreases. At 2000 the bottom actually becomes hotter, per the meter. Downdraft kiln. I know I don't want reduction for a bisque fire, but any recommendations on how to fire a downdraft kiln evenly for bisque? Normally I like 06. I guess I'll shoot for 04-06 I can make the draft pull stronger by moving the 2 inside back posts (soaps) partly blocking the exit. This adjusts the first venturi causing the draft. Can't adjust on the fly obviously, it's place your bets and read the cards. I'll have to look at my notes and see if I have anything worthwhile.
  9. I'd still pull the cover off the bottom and give it a visual inspection. Be nice to know if you have the 4 O rings model or the V belt model. If O rings, then the condition of the rings. I used my wheel for 20 years not knowing it wasn't operating properly.
  10. Sounds not only silly, but incredibly obvious to wash my hands with soap after clay. Not perfect, but huge improvement over water only.
  11. I use a little bit of slip under the larger size hydrobats to lock them down. I have to pry them up at the end. As long as the pins line up, they're usable to me.
  12. No help, but I watch Forged in Fire regularly and I'm always amazed at the seat of the pants tempering of the blades. Occasionally, someone's home forge will have a controlled heat, but more typically, the obvious color of the blade is uneven and frequently it's too hot.
  13. I've been meaning to post a picture of my setup. Mark reminded me that the underside of the Pacifica wheel is particle board. Here's the way I set it up. That's a standard formica counter top cut to fit under the catch pan and lifted with some 2x4s to be tight. Nice and tidy. For a potter.
  14. That's the wheel I have and really like because of the super responsive pedal. I can confidently move the wheel 1/4 turn. To me, that the best test of control. My wheel was purchased more than 20 years ago, so yours may have a different setup, but the drive belts on mine are 4 large O ring type belts. They don't last forever, but are pretty easy to replace. If you stand the wheel up on the nose, you can remove the bottom cover with 4 screws and take a look at them. Make sure the big wheel has 4 grooves to receive the belts and is not a V type pulley. If it is, the knocking you hear are the belts riding over each other. I posted my fix earlier. It's a great wheel, congrats on getting a good used deal.
  15. I've posted before about my adoration for paper slip repairs. I never try to fix rim cracks. Just not worth the time/kiln space.
  16. How important is it to use K thermocouple wire? What is the difference? Just to eyeball it, it looks like single pair 16 gauge stranded or thereabouts.
  17. https://youtu.be/ot_OZBh54-k One modification I can see is some kind of adjustable feeler to set the thickness of the bottom. Since I frequently trim feet in, on big pots, it's a large sacrifice of clay and needs to be accurate.
  18. Neoprene like wet suit material? How would that work say on a pot 3" wide and 10" tall? Seems like the leverage and pressure would make the pot want to move. It's like the KeyMaker in the movie Matix says, "Always another way".
  19. I have a big table on the wheel. It's actually a counter top with a back splash cut to fit right under the back pan. That catches most of the trimmings. As I trim, I'll stop the wheel and corral the trimmings. It makes a big difference how wet the pot is. Too dry and they shatter and come off in little uncontrollable pieces. Too wet and they reattach themselves and are a pain to pull off. Just right, and I can keep 95% off the floor. Always escapees, though.
  20. The Pucker Gallery in Boston is having an exhibition on Ken Matsuzaki . My main ceramic buddy does a lot of traveling and is on their catalog send out list, so he passed the catalog to me. Sometimes one of these stellar artists just rings your bell. It's like what you would be doing yourself if you had another 200 years to live. I haven't added to my ceramic library in a while, but I had to get his book. Can't afford any of his work. Check it out here. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/594044bd3a041171e0426683/t/5e74fbbc1bb0c10992bba64d/1584724935911/Ken+Matsuzaki+2020+Catalog+FINAL.pdf
  21. I'm a sloppy enough thrower that occasionally I'll have a pot in a trimming session like this. I use a couple of little pieces of the rubber grippy shelf liner stuff to get the foot part centered and never mind the rim. I know it works fine for everybody else (again), but griping the pot by the rim with wads of clay does not appeal to me like the riser arms on the GG. It just stands to reason that securing the pot closer to the force applied by the trimming tool makes more sense. Plus the fact that the rim will be much more fragile that the foot at this point. There are 5 working heights of the arms, plus reversing the sliders to give the best position on the pot. I just can't get over the idea that anyone would argue against the GG. Unless you just make so few pots that it doesn't matter or you like the tradition of doing things the old way. I guess that's why the kick wheel doesn't go away.
  22. Amen to that. Also toss bisque. Don't let that pile up once you've passed it up. I'm talking to myself here.
  23. Sounds like the 2 pieces of the grip don't have the necessary friction. If I hold the top of the grip and power the wheel, it takes some torque to tighten the arms on the pot. It doesn't just slide. I have never lubricated the 2 main pieces, I don't think anything more than cleaning is required. There is an O ring and spacer on the bottom holding the 2 pieces together. Are they there on yours?
  24. See, that's the difference between a shared environment and a personal one. As a teacher/instructor, you're in the position to require procedures that might or might not not have a direct translation to a personal environment. When I began setting up my studio 25+ years ago, the GG was probably the first purchase after the wheel. It's just a skill that I don't care to invest the time in. I didn't learn basics in a structured environment with a director that required anything. They didn't have GG either. He probably demoed it. I have tools that have earned their keep and ones that haven't. GG is definitely a keeper.
  25. Use a piece of rubber shelf liner material to reinforce the ability to hold center. Also protects the possibly over dried rim.
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