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Everything posted by CactusPots

  1. But does that get you a dead sharp line between the glazes? Or does the "play well" part mean the overlap looks ok?
  2. 2 disagreements with this statement. First, the reference to "functional ware". Kitchenware or food ware would be more accurate as (for instance) my planters are as functional as your bowls and mugs. Second, (imo) when potters use the term "liner glazed", they're assuming a different glaze on the outside that is not intended to contact food. If you glazed the entire piece with a standard food safe glaze, you wouldn't refer to it as a liner glaze. The intent of the exercise is to use a wider range of glazes than would be allowable with a single application approach. The fir
  3. I'm guessing the production potters here don't use liner glazes. The reason for my thinking is that I don't know a way to make a clean transition between the inside glaze and the outside glaze that isn't just very time consuming. I'm doing it with latex resist, 1st glaze, wax resist, then second glaze. It looks good and I don't do kitchen ware very often, so not really a big deal for me. I guess the other option would be an overlap on the outside that worked between the 2 glazes. Not going to happen with a shino or a lot of glazes.
  4. Off the website: Variable Speed Control: Optional Mine never sounds like it down shifts. Same old granny gear all the time.
  5. Shop vac takes care of the dust. Or a big ass fan outside. I did build "flaps" initially when I built the kiln. It was a tin box, maybe 6" x 6" filled with ceramic fiber, The bottom one is still in service, but the top one burned out a while ago. Hence the plug.
  6. Pretty sure mine doesn't. Just start, stop, pug and vacuum on the control. I can see where it would be useful. Maybe the doc you're looking at is a new upgrade model.
  7. I used Peter King clay. Not the easiest to throw, but they have held up well so far (maybe 60 cone 10 firings). You could maybe just use Soldate 30 or add a bunch of grog to a basic cone 10 white or light colored clay. I think if I was to do it again, I'd extrude the spy holes square and fit a square tapered soft brick plug. Making a mold form for castable would be tricky. I don't think it would be durable unless it was pretty thick. I used castable cement for my exhaust damper box. At least one piece cracked, but is still functionable.
  8. I don't think my PP VPM 30 has a speed control.
  9. What kind of pugmill has speed adjustment?
  10. Or taking a fresh bag of clay and running it through the pugmill. I've not tried this, but I suspect if it was hand building firm and not throwing soft, it would come out short(er). The process SBSOSO is talking about dries the clay significantly by the time it gets back into the pugmill. It's an interesting question why they were able to get away with immediate use after pugging scrap and now they can't. Lots of ins, lots of outs and lots of what have yous.
  11. I noticed the exact same problem with my reclaim clay. I called Laguna and asked their clay "expert" about it. Their reply was that the commercial pug mill they use has so much more powerful vacuum that my Peter Pugger. I don't know if I fully buy their explanation, but I don't have a better one. The working solution I'm using is to pug wet and age. Very nice clay that way. I think Sorce may be on to it. By the time I get around to a session with the pug mill, the scrap has been sitting in bags wet for quite a while. Sometimes even a touch of green. It's definitely not short coming o
  12. I think this is the right approach. I don't know where the math failure is here, but half a bag of clay will not give you a 30x30x 1/4" slab, just from experience estimate. I don't know why Min's calculation is off. The pug is a little smaller than 12x6x6 to actually measure it, Not by that much (half). The rough calculation of 432 cubic inches by 25 pounds is 0.05 lbs per cubic inch. I rolled out a 1/4" slab and cut it to 12"x 12" and it weighed 4 lbs almost exactly. That comes out to 0.11 lbs per cubic inch. This seems to work for my calculation and gives me a better way to
  13. I've had this problem a lot, as it's just part of my work. I think what's happening is that the outside clay layers dry and trap moisture in the slip layer. A good solid connection is the first part as everyone notes. An extended time in plastic bags equalizes the moisture between the layers. A slow dry to basic dry and and then extended dry to get the internal moisture. Easy for me in the summer time, not so much now. The bisque cycle should be slow to 200 with a soak before moving on. Even if the bisque is perfect the attachment can peel up on the edge sometimes. I think it's
  14. I'd like some tips on estimating clay needed for large slabs. I'm aware that experience will help doing a ballpark estimate, or maybe even better. My slab roller is 30", so that's the max in one dimension. Some of my forms so far require a 30 x 30 slab, My current method is to keep making slabs until I get one right, then mark on the form what it requires. I'm hand rolling to get the first dimension, then using the slab roller to get the final size and set the final thickness. The slab roller definitely doesn't like a large piece of clay more than 1 1/2" thick rolled to final thickness,
  15. Of course the Japanese make world class whiskey and no one complains. Can't call it Scotch though. Who decides what is offensive? The most easily offended? Read Fahrenheit 451 and get back to me. I've always thought it odd when a racial pedigree is necessary to advertise/sell your art. If that's your thing and your clients buy into it, swell. In art, nothing is pure.
  16. Check out Out of the Earth Into the Fire by Mimi Obstler.
  17. Tools are super powers. Makes you able to leap tall buildings in a single bound, faster than a speeding bullet, more powerful than a locomotive.
  18. I've been watching all the "should I buy a slab roller or pugmill" topics. My reply isn't specific to either, so I'll just say it here. I love tools. I can't resist the idea of being able to accomplish some task that is not practical or even possible without this or that tool. The end result product is only part of the joy in tools. The more versatile the tools the more joy it will probably bring me. To that end, my last tool I will ever sell is my bandsaw. Not even a pottery tool. I've made more cool stuff for pottery with that bandsaw than I can even think to mention. The joy f
  19. This is on B's Shino cone 10 reduction. This shino by itself is anywhere from a creamy white to a deep orange, as you can see on the right side of the pot. The left side of the pot was covered with a light dusting of wood ash. I don't know how this technique would work on other glazes or types of firing. It would be difficult to make it super uniform, I'd think.
  20. I use a light dusting of wood ash on shino glazes for a nice mat grey. Never tried it on others, like maybe a mat white. Worth a test, in my opinion.
  21. Here are my melt tests on the bentonite (bottom), a crust from a dry lake which I take to be borax (top) and a combination of the 2. The location for both these samples is about 20 miles south of the original gerstley borate mine. According to the book, Out of the Earth, Into the Fire, the calcium bentonites do not swell in water like the soda bentonites do. My sample was comparable to the commercial bentonite we probably all use. The bentonite photo shows it after it was washed, screened 60 mesh and dried. There is a slight white powder on the edges of the pieces. I think the entire ar
  22. This is a new to me kiln. Don't know the exact history of it. Would that be your take on how a kiln may have gotten this condition? I think it's going to be functional for now. If next year is functional at all, I may have some work done on that bottom ring, replacing a few bricks and a new band. The Skutt kilns definitely seem to be prone to rust. Low grade stainless, no doubt.
  23. The inside of the bottom band. Better?
  24. Rust on the inside or the outside? I just got a used 1227, the outside doesn't look so bad, but it's dropping rust on the floor from the bottom inside band.
  25. Doesn't glaze dry on the inside wall of the bucket? By the time the 5 gallon bucket is half way down, the inside wall is covered with thick semi dried glaze for me. I can scrape it into the glaze, but then it must be sieved to get out the lumps. My buckets are sealed screw lids as well so they don't dry out between glaze episodes. Maybe you don't mix enough glaze for multiple firings, but for me reworking glazes is an ongoing deal.
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