Bill Kielb
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Posts posted by Bill Kielb
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5 hours ago, liambesaw said:
This week I haven't done anything out in the shed but trim some fermentation jars (and feel guilty about it). Instead I've been hunched over a computer and camera trying to get everything squared away for my business and website. I have my photo booth almost all squared away, need to pick up some posterboard tonight and really start photographing everything. Wish I could just make things and let them disappear on their own, hah.
Anyway, here's a picture. I was using this mug to dial in my camera and lights.
Looks good but I would remove the reflection as well and see if you like it
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11 hours ago, liambesaw said:
This week I will be making some three pound fermentation vessels. I think I need to make a dozen or so jars for my wife and her group of friends. I'm hoping to also get through 30 mugs this week.
Made a video of me making the fermentation jars, or at least the first exploration of the form, can watch if you are interested in seeing me throw cylinders poorly, haha
I like them.
Audio is nicer also and of course no PJ’s a plus. Kudos to mentioning the compression out to in. You are probably only the third person I know to mention it and it has saved countless newbies from the unexplained crack. Food preparation is a bit of science also. This video has made me hungry, go figure.
someone I watched who was a throw to the stick person actually hinged the last two inches of his stick so when done he could flip it horizontally out of the way. Seemed like an easy good idea.
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Nice work!
I never post anything here so here is a sampling of the weekend reduction firing. There are many talented artists at the studio (Clayspace ceramic arts center) that now excel at getting their favorite reduction, Carbon trapping, even ice crackle!
cool stuff and a fun mask almost sans eyeballs. Great group firings, time after time in an old Alpine updraft with some fancy digital stuff hooked to it.
- Callie Beller Diesel, Babs, Hulk and 5 others
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Lemon test usually meaningless, put it in your dinhwasher 30 times. Actually I would just line it if I were to let my pooch drink from it. It’s obviously artistically melted but I would never assume it to be durable. No lead or cadmium though so there is that.
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Hmm, looks like Fido could use a liner glaze, maybe a durable 04 lowfire fix.
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Nice work, on all fronts. Potter to electrician to electronics design technician. Ya got some skills!
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Yes, friendly joke. He thought it would mess me up
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Pretty good with that left hand, for a bit there I thought you were going to throw left handed but rotating counter clockwise! I am ok with mine and stumped one of our RA’s recently when he switched my wheel direction while I was away and then went cross eyed when I came back and just finished shaping without swapping the direction back. He just walked away shaking his head.
nice video
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I like it aesthetically and since I can palm a basketball it looks very inviting for my hand. It is also practical for when my siblings are at the table. We each have an equal opportunity to snatch it! As for pouring, well maybe use my other hand on the bottom.
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Suggestion while you are learning it, maybe set max temp at maybe 2300 (Max in the tech manual I sent), Maybe cone 71/2 or what you feel is safe as a redundant safety against severe over fire. I think the default is 2400.
Interesting in that it’s branded as a Euclid control!
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I usually cut mine before I start just as a matter of habit. I take it you relay config and the wiring part went pretty smooth. Nice work!
oh, one last add, how much did you save as diy.
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Looks nice and clean, just curious if you added the down ramp segment to your base programming as well as the two key to keep unwanted starts from happening?
I will probably add the SSR retrofit to this in about a month or so with early test data for folks to view.
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Looks pretty nifty!
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Helped or been helped
I have to give all the credit. You tube is relatively new so not as much as people, research people especially old research people. I think everyone has some wheelhouse skill and if one can figure that out and pick their brain, method whatever, one can benefit greatly. Clay is so diverse that old methods give way to new. Reading, listening and now viewing on the internet all have distinct advantages unto their own.
my vote is all including forums of opinions. There is always something you can learn
when I vacation, I always visit nearby ceramic studios, fascinating actually. All these have helped in their own way actually.
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For mugs, cups, vases, I really like picking them up off the wheel head and placing them on a cheap cfold towel on a batt. Bottom dries out with the rest, stays round and no cutting later only to have a batt with a splotch of clay in the center.
he definitely is in a groove though.
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5 hours ago, liambesaw said:
I'm making YouTube videos now too! I thought to myself "what is the internet missing?" And guess what, there wasn't a single video of me in my pajamas making mugs, now there is! Still trying to figure out the whole YouTube thing but I'll get there!
The throwing was great, the PJ’s not so much. I like the Air conditioner stashed back there for comfort as well.
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It’s a Shimpo whisper, heavy studio use that has bad foot pedal cord so we will fix after I get some decent strain reliefs in the next few days. I will video and include the pedal adjustment and put it up somewhere for folks to access. Seems to be a need for it lately.
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Funny I sat down tonight at a wheel and first it didn’t start, then it ran backwards, then it finally performed normally after I jiggled the footpedal wires. Guess I will do a quick video on cutting these back and repairing them nicely. New strain reliefs, new crimp on connectors all for little money but in good lasting order when they are done. It has come up on this site recently several times now. Time to make a video and link it here somewhere.
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Clay tile roofs are great in warm climates and protect from UV quite well, plus they have mass and are less susceptible to uplifting forces. Final Waterproofing for these systems almost always depends upon the underlayment.
Just a thought so minor cracks in clay tile not really a tremendous concern including cedar shakes unless the underlayment is not water tight. I would vote for the tight porcelain body myself.
Assuring enough room for water expansion is difficult at best.
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4 minutes ago, liambesaw said:
Very nice, almost bone-like. Was the pinholing from high loi? When I put my glazes into insight I know that the loi figures are a rough guess, but I try to keep mine low by subbing out whiting and fiddling.
It was not actually, but I am a low sodium then low calcium guy anyway with porcelain so when I can reduce these it is usually decent practice for me. This glaze would actually over fire so badly that it would literally dry up. It had little self healing capability as well. When I solidified this Bristol recipe it fired nicely, no pinholes and matte per the chemistry so LOI is usually not a super high primary interest to me especially if it works when in correct chemistry form..
I find if I can normalize these things in Stull and they fire per their chemistry then I can move from there to try and get it to look the way everyone thinks it should. Just my method, I am a UMF guy and do like a lot of Tony Hansen’s stuff, as well as Britt, Arbuckle, Katz and many others.
just my method of keeping it simple for me. LOI has never been something I designed to unless I was worried about the efficiency in use of materials.
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The Rays cream is actually the first layer glaze. It’s only colorant is rutile (titanium) so it has always been an overfired matte where if you were lucky you would get a runny matte in which the crystals collected in the runs and at the bottom where it would turn shades of blue.
Old recipe, pinholes most of the time, bad chemistry and also started out as a Bristol glaze back in the day to get this to melt around cone 4 ish.
To answer your question Rays cream was the base and I have a blue fur over the top (rim dipped to 2”) in a very half hazard manner for this test piece.
The rework was to lower the temp with boron, reduce the zinc to only as needed and eliminate the pin holes while bringing the flux ratio to a durable one.
They like this glaze because as a runny matte anything over it or it over a smooth glaze has movement. It usually looks pretty good with minimal effort which is what everyone wants Updating this to a more boron controlled melt allows easy dial in of how much run. From there we just need to dial in the thickness for one dip, two dip, three dip. So SPG for the interns after testing is important for consistent results. Right now this works fine at 140% water to dry glaze at mix time. I think the final dipping thickness will be 135 - 138 ish so a bit thin.
three second dips are the norm in our studio.
I will message you the write up to the resident artists if you want the test recipe to try, just drop me a note.
some generic pics of what this can do depending upon application thickness. All the pinholes, crazing and imperfections have been designed out of it at this point and it works on low expansion porcelain. Now time for the studio artists to figure out what they don’t like about it.
What’s on your workbench?
in Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
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Never ordered from AliExpress, any feedback?