[QotW: All things considered, What coloring oxide would you not be able to work without?]

Iron oxide is the main colorant in practically every glaze i make.  Rutile would come second not as a colorant but just for the effect it has on glazes. 3rd cobalt ox or carb.

[Bubbles In Black Stoneware]

Overfiring causes the clay body to bloat. If you have not burned out all the organic material in the bisque this will also rear its ugly head in the glaze firing as bloating. .nothing can remedy the bloating in the glaze firing if you havent burned out all the organics in the bisque. You can however fire to correct temp of clay and the reduce temp a bit and hold. This will give time for the bubbles in the glaze to pop and heal over while allowing the clay body to mature and finish offgassing. The amount of time is variable  but its just a timing issue.... is the body finished offgassing?.. is the glaze fluid enough to heal? Is the glaze fluid enough at the lower temp to heal over? All hard questions that take time and experimenting to figure out. OR you can dump the black clay and get a more suitable clay body for what youre doing.  My 2 cents.

[QotW: What things do you do that would be Old School, and what do you do that would be considered Embracing the Future?]

I still make my own clay body.

I rarely wedge anymore. I figure thats what a pugmill is for.

Giffin grip is used on almost every piece made.

[QotW: What best habit would you recommend to a beginner setting up their studio?]

Invest in a good mop and mop bucket and use it frequently. Your lungs will thank you.

[QotW: What is your first and second most expensive equipment expense?]

Lots and lots  and lots of brick for kiln along with all other accessories required to use kiln, and second the pugmill.. oh and the Bugatti Veyron to go pick up supplies really really fast.

[QotW: Does your stacking determine the items in the load, or does your load determine the stacking?]

I use pieces to direct flame path along with the height between shelves and how tightly packed is very specific to each and every shelf especially at the front of the kiln. How I set the work on shelves determines whether the bottom back will be more even in temp to the top front ...so... what would that be? A bit of both?

[QotW: Earthenware or mid range Stoneware, What is your preference and why?]

Neither. . Im a dinosaur . Cone 10-12 wood fired reduction. Dont leave us high fire folks out!....  for me its the joy of firing with wood and the friends and family and food involved... Plus (I know Ill get lambasted here) there a big difference between low/mid fired ox and high fired wood reduction  in both the body and glaze. For me its hands down high fire!

[QoTW: following last weeks question of the week; would you give up any of the technology you use in ceramics now and go back to a simpler not as technology advanced method?]

The tech I have: electric wheel, giffin grip, pugmill, clay mixer.  No no no no. I mix my own clay and glazes and i fire in a large wood fired kiln. That offsets the tech I have.

[Frit Substitution Chart + Orton Cone Charts + Kiln Wash Recipes]

https://insight-live.com/insight/share.php?z=K5hHzDs2Kr

Ive started using this last year. Its a zircon based wash. I dont think ill ever go back to the alumina hydrate/epk wash