neilestrick

It was standard equipment on the digital controllers as well, at least until they sold the company in 2007-ish. Not sure what they're doing now. Their web site still shows the crappy touchscreen controller that was developed when I was there (total rush job), but I can't remember if it had dual TC inputs or not. As bad as it was, it was still better than the Chromalox controller they had been using for a while, which was a general purpose controller that had way too many parameters and required scrolling through something like 26 settings to get to the high limit shutoff setting.

What did the cones show? Like GEP said, it's going to go to whatever temp it needs to in order to achieve the proper heat work based on the rate of climb. I wouldn't change anything until you do a firing or two, with cones, on the schedule you would normally use, which really shouldn't be the Fast setting. After a test or two you can then dial in the thermocouples or cone offset.
Where did you see the recommended firing schedule for the first firing? Was that in the Genesis controller manual or the main L&L manual? Like Smokey2 said, L&L's recommended first firing is a Slow Bisque to cone 5 with a 3 hour preheat. It could be that the Genesis manual, which is not written by L&L, is saying something different. 

I meant to add since it is still a switch it can only go as fast as a half cycle  which you guessed it is .5 seconds. They are zero crossing as well so they always turn on at zero, rather than turn on at peak. Another cool  longevity thing.

The Genesis has an 'SSR Mode' that cycles the relays at 500 milliseconds. Pretty cool.

You can put a simple toggle switch on your control box to switch between thermocouples.

Putting a shelf at the bottom, whether two halves or one full, is a must for two reasons. One, it helps to reduce heat loss through the floor so the kiln fires more evenly. Second, it protects the floor. It's much cheaper to replace a shelf than a kiln floor if something goes awry. Kiln shelf: $60. Kiln floor w/ freight delivery: $450. I've always just used pieces of kiln shelves as posts under the bottom shelf. It doesn't need to be any more than 1/2 inch. You'll get plenty of air flow from a downdraft vent with just 1/2".
If you use a full shelf at the bottom and use 1/2 shelves above it, then you have to use 4 posts under the full shelf, which runs the risk of the shelf not sitting evenly on all 4 posts. You do not want the shelf to rock, or it can warp or crack. If it's rocking at all, use very thin wads of clay dipped in kiln wash or alumina to even everything out. Be sure to use clay that is rated for the highest temp you'll be firing, or make wadding from kaolin and alumina.
I never stagger shelves unless I have to, and have never had issues from it, even in my big 21 cubic foot kiln. I've always found that staggering just wastes space. Unless you're firing very quickly, you shouldn't have evenness problems across a shelf.

I put mine on half inch posts because the bottom element is 1.5 inches up and want it exposed rather than covered.

LT-3K is the model fo the Kiln Sitter shutoff device, not the kiln. There should be a serial plate on the kiln that says the actual model number, voltage, phase, watts, etc. I assume you mean Gare, not Glare? Value depends on the size and condition, but in general those old kilns aren't worth much, maybe $300 unless it's a large one.

In my studio, 266 likes to bloat at cone 6, so we fire it to cone 5. What cone are you firing to?

Most kiln parts are not specific to any one kiln, or kiln brand, or even to kilns in general. Elements are the one exception. You can't just take elements from one brand and put them into another kiln and expect them to fit or heat properly. Is there a company in NZ that makes custom elements?  If not, try Euclids.com in Canada, they may be able to help you. 

Understood, but I already have two extras of them and my two ovens also came with them. So for consistency ...

Some things to consider- type S TC's are only really necessary if you're firing above cone 6, doing long high temp holds, or require great accuracy. For typical pottery firings you won't gain anything, and you can buy 15 type K for the price of one type S. Plus if you crack into the type S with a shelf and break it, it's an expensive replacement.

I have a new kiln being delivered next week!

I have a new kiln being delivered next week!

I have a new kiln being delivered next week!

I have a new kiln being delivered next week!

Right now I am 90% sure I’m going to do this, though I still need to convince myself of the last 10%, but I think I’m going to get Lasik surgery. I recently turned 50, so this will be my 50th birthday present to myself.  I was originally planning to splurge on a nice vacation, but those plans went out the window with covid. Lasik is probably more useful anyways. 

Below you will find links to web sites for all the major kiln manufacturers in North America, plus links to specific areas of their sites for wiring diagrams, repair parts, and manuals.
Your kiln should have a serial plate somewhere on the side of the kiln or the control box, which shows the model number, voltage, and phase of the kiln. You will need this information in order to find the correct parts or manual for your kiln. For manual kilns with a Kiln Sitter, the model number on the Kiln Sitter (LT-3K for example) is the model number for the Sitter only. It has nothing to do with the kiln model. Kiln Sitters were/are used by all brands for the last 50+ years.
Please note that if you cannot find a user manual for your specific kiln, chances are a manual for another kiln with the same systems will work just fine. All kilns are loaded the same way, all Kiln Sitters work the same way, and all manual kilns are fired the same way (by turning up the switches at hourly intervals). There are only a handful of digital controllers on the market, and links to manuals for those can be found below.
When in doubt, contact the kiln manufacturer.
Please DM me if you find any dead or missing links.
Disclaimer: This thread is simply a resource for finding the information you need. We make no promises or guarantees as to the accuracy, quality, or safety of any of the items found on the pages we link to.

That would be the best way to go. Try to slow it down at the high end if possible, like maybe go more smaller turnups once it gets to red heat. Shoot for 100f/hr for the last 200F

I am not making wheels to sale but here is a link to a short video of a kick treadle wheel I just finished making from a black locust tree and some hardware.
Tree to Treadle

The switch isn't really setting firing profiles like a digital controller would. It's just a regular manual infinite switch that they've labeled as though it were an actual controller. At each setting it's going to cycle the elements on and off at a different rate to control how hot the kiln can get at each setting. The Overglaze setting is roughly the same as putting it the switch on medium, and since overglazes fire at such a low temperature it'll get hot enough on medium to do the job. The Ceramics setting is like medium-high, and will allow the kiln to get hot enough for low fire work. The High-Fire setting is full on, which is needed for cone 6 work. They way they tell you to fire it is to just put it on one of those settings, which means it goes on low for two hours and then jumps up to the setting. We don't generally fire our kilns like that, though, because it fires too quickly that way. Instead, we go through a series of turn-ups to increase the temperature slowly so that we don't harm our pots by heating too quickly or getting incomplete burnout or melting the glazes too fast. So ignore the labels on the switch and instead think of it as low to high, and do a series of turnups.

@Catatonic The switch is just an infinite switch. According to the Duncan manual, when you turn it on, it will go on low for 2 hours, then switch over to whatever cycle you've set the dial to. Overglaze is like medium, Ceramic is like med-high, High Fire is full on. Try this: start with the switch off, push the power button on the sitter, turn the switch to Overglaze and let it go 4 hours, then switch to Ceramic for 4 hours, then to High Fire until it's done. It may shut off on the ceramic setting.

@Catatonic The switch is just an infinite switch. According to the Duncan manual, when you turn it on, it will go on low for 2 hours, then switch over to whatever cycle you've set the dial to. Overglaze is like medium, Ceramic is like med-high, High Fire is full on. Try this: start with the switch off, push the power button on the sitter, turn the switch to Overglaze and let it go 4 hours, then switch to Ceramic for 4 hours, then to High Fire until it's done. It may shut off on the ceramic setting.

When you have a cylinder that is open on the bottom, as it tries to shrink it will catch on the shelf and warp. By putting a slab under it, the slab will shrink with the cylinder, allowing the cylinder to shrink freely. I've even had tall foot rings on large bowls warp.

I think that distinction is often blurry. For instance, say someone uses the latest computer technology and high-tech NASA materials to create a hammer that drives nails with 50% less effort. Is that hammer low tech because it's still a hammer that doesn't have any electronics, or is it high tech because of how it was designed and manufactured? I think materials alone can make something high tech even if it doesn't have electronics.
I think technology has a lot of smaller categories- new tech, old tech, low tech, high tech, etc. I suppose something is old tech as soon as  something newer comes along. Digital kiln controllers were the latest tech for 25-30 years until the touch screen controllers came out. Now they're the old tech, but they're still high-tech compared to Kiln Sitters. It's all relative. And high tech isn't automatically better than low tech. Digital kiln controllers are the easiest way to fire, but witness cones are still the most accurate. Some people prefer high tech, some prefer low tech. There's room for a lot of personal choice. Low tech solutions are beautiful in their simplicity. High tech solutions can blow your mind. It's all good. I think of technology as 'any object, tool, or system that simplifies, expedites, or automates a process'.