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Everything posted by ronfire

  1. I have the dies and wondering if I should make a taper on the top of the die to help wedge the clay through.
  2. I have one of those extruders. Don't have an issue with the rust. I don't clean the inside but I remove the clay put the bottom when I am done with it
  3. I will try some peroxide and them store it in some milk jugs. When my new Glaze gets very low then I think I will add it to the new order. Callie, it was a bit of work but Green barn in Langley managed to secure the last 27kg for me, they are the local shop that is part of Plainsman. Seems he new replacement glaze causes cracks on my sinks. Not sure what I will do when there is no more as some of the ingredients are hard to get. Plan to save this glaze for the sinks.
  4. I know you can add bleach or vinegar to your slip and collection bucket but can you add it to a glaze without problems? I have some G2916F, clear cone 6 glaze left that has a mouldy smell and now managed to get the last 27kg of this glaze. Should I add this 1/2 gallon to the new batch or toss ? Hate to toss it out as I can not get more of this glaze.
  5. That is what I plan to do Bill, get another sink done then maybe change something up. I need the glaze I ordered first so I can dip the sink, don't have enough left for another one.
  6. I will try another sink with a slow cool , if I have good results then think I may go back to my old system of letting the kiln cool with the fan off on its own after completing the firing.
  7. Min, I have been in contact with Plainsman about the problem I have been having and this was their reply. "These are heavy pieces with a big foot ring. That means significant variation in thickness across the cross section. The hole in the middle also provides a point of crack initiation at the center of the section most likely to have a temperature difference to the edges. In electric kilns it is extremely difficult to keep an even temperature across a piece, both on heat up and cool down. Gradients created on heat up can survive to cool down also. The pieces seem t
  8. Well just removed another sink from the kiln, this time it was with the old glaze. I had about a 3/4 gallon left so I had to pour it on instead of a dip. This sink was good with no hairline glaze cracks. The good news is there is 1 more bag of the glaze available and I have it on order. Don't know what I will do after it is gone as some of the ingredients are hard to get.
  9. When I had my Estrin wheel I would stand on the motor hard and center the clay, release the motor and then throw my mug or bowl. By the time it slowed down I was ready to remove the piece. The motor ran 110v and was always running while I was throwing. The drive wheel on the motor was a hockey puck. Now I have a Skutt wheel and would not go back, love a modern quality wheel.
  10. I have had the vent all along and shut it off when the elements are done heating. Wonder if the kiln shelf has anything to do with being a heat sink on a large piece. Maybe I will try butting my waster on some 1/4 clay coils that I have used for larger items. I was putting the sinks on them before my last try.
  11. I find the non overflow drains on Amazon and they are made for various hole sizes.
  12. Well the wife painted another sink and I do have some of the old glaze I used previously and will try that. I also threw another 2 sinks and made sure to compress the drain opening and will bisque fire them slowly.
  13. The problem is the bottom of the sink should be flat with the outside edge of the sink. I can trim the bottom to include a ring that matches the foot of the sink. The other way would be to make a doughnut to fire the sink on if the centre drain sits proud of the bottom of the sink. But that brings me back to the sinks used to fire well, did have many break and never the hairline cracks when I used the sitter. I am thinking it is in the newer glaze now that I look back at the time frame was about the same time I went into the wall controller, or could be a new batch of clay issues.. even
  14. I will try to have a thicker area around the hole but then worried about the uneven thickness that can cause breakage. I still have a little of the old glaze that I can pour over the sink instead of dipping it, also will make the new sinks a little thicker and see if that helps. Just getting very frustrated because the sinks where getting popular and now having issues that I did not have before.
  15. I have not noticed any hairline cracks in smaller items like dinner plates,mugs or casseroles. The alumina worked nice on the plates thanks for the advise Bill.
  16. I am wondering if it is the new Plainsman glaze 2926B. I was using the Plainsman G2916F before but the store does not carry it now. Here is a pic of the firing schedule I just used. The wife will spend a whole day under glazing a sink and now is blaming me because we never had so many failures with the kiln sitter. The controller should be kinder on the clay than the sitter. We will not do anymore sinks on orders. Was planning on one for our own bathroom renovation this fall but now not so sure.
  17. Well I opened the kiln at 150, unloaded the first sink it was cracked on the heat up . the next sink was still fairly warm to the touch so I left it in the kiln but did not notice any cracks. A few hours later removed it at 130, warm to the touch ,at a closer inspection I saw again a hairline crack Never had this kind of cracks before I removed the sitter and put in a Bartlett kiln control with SCR relay. Out of 6 sinks I had 1 that was good. I used a slow glaze program with a 30 min hold at 2100f. Would the hold cause an issue that I never did with the sitter. The sitter ran 2.5 hrs on lo
  18. Still to hot to open, 238f this morning. Usually can not open the kiln for at least 24 hrs after I fire. I will find out later today if my slower fire and alumina worked.
  19. I ended up just giving a light sanding when finished to get rid of the high spots. Next time I will wet the shelves first. Thanks for all the advise. Firing another 2 sinks, let the kiln gods be kind. On the Bartlett slow cone 6 glaze, looks like 16 hrs to heat up and 150 hr to cool down to 1500. The sinks are in the centre of the kiln with a waster and alumina both sides of the waster.
  20. I made up some kiln wash today on fresh cleaned bare shelves. I am getting lumps from or thick type runs when I apply with the roller. Seams the shelves suddenly grab the water out of the mix and harden the wash.Think I will now have to lightly sand the lumps off. Might go back to soft brush.
  21. Is the kiln wash formula is by weight? Think I will make some tomorrow and redo the shelves.
  22. To apply Alumina to shelves or under pots what is the best way. Can it be mixed with water to coat the shelves or use a salt shaker. My concern is haw to use it without getting it on the pot below and affect the clear glaze.
  23. Thanks Bill, think I will order some tomorrow and maybe Kaolin ep and Kaolin calcined to make my own kiln wash as well.
  24. When you refer to Alumina is that Alumina Hydrate? Looking to purchase some and try it. I also have heard of using sand but found that is fused onto my shelf and left a mess.
  25. I will make a couple tonight on the wheel or is a rolled slab ok.. Would it be a problem to make the waster slab and use it in the glaze fire without bisque firing first?.
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