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Everything posted by ronfire

  1. The fan is from a wood stove blower and is a 2 speed, on high it does not move more air so I am thinking it is restricted with the input. I currently have 2 - 1/4" holes in a Skutt 1027. This is what the eco vents call for a kiln that size but I think I will up it to 3/8 holes.. Not worries about makeup air as there is enough gap under the doors. Here is a pic of the fan I am using, it does not list cfm. The vent is right behind the kiln so the plumbing is short.
  2. The kiln is in a 20'x40' shop and has large sliding doors that will not seal well so not worried about makeup air, the exhaust is on the opposite side where air would come in, So I am thinking maybe another hole in the bottom of the kiln to allow more flow. The lid and sections are never air tight so I don't think a 3rd hole in the lid would be the first starting place. Will have to add a hole before tomorrow before I fire again.
  3. I have a direct vent from the kiln to the outside and always has a negative pressure inside the kiln even close to the end of firing. I still get a strong sulphur smell when the kiln is in the last hour of firing. Should I increase the draw on the kiln or is this usual even with the vent or add another vent hole in the kiln floor? So far I just limit my time around the kiln during that time but still have to check on it from time to time.
  4. I removed the sitter tube and installed the thermocouple in place and the protection tube over top. I fit in well with the protection tube. I then moved the power input from one side of the sitter contact plate to the other side. All the switches and wiring from original stay in place. If I have to I can replace the sitter and rewire in about 10 min and be back to the stock setup. The wall controller stays cool and does not get to a dangerous temperature, I did add a fan to mine to cool it even further but does not require it to operate. The cooler you keep electronics the better it is on them. I built mine with a Genesis controller, contactor and solid state relay. I also have a separate power system for a vent fan that gets controller by the controller. The vent fan uses the cord from a float switch so it just plugs into the wall and the vent fan pugs into that.
  5. If there is a newspaper printer in your area see if they have roll ends, most do. You can then either cut the roll length wise with a power saw to make individual sheets or make a roll dispenser, I built one above my bench that has a sharpened piece of angle iron to tear sheets from the roll.
  6. The other solution is to buy or build a wall controller and wire the elements to work from the main power input on the kiln. I sure like the Bartlett controller that I did mine with to eliminate the sitter.
  7. Yes the kiln has a vent, that was why I added an extra shelf to stop a rapid cooling. I had the kiln on a slow cool of 200f per hour to 1000 then shut down including the fan. The kiln then still takes 18-24 hrs to cool enough, the 3" bricks sure hold the heat in.
  8. I even coated the kiln washed shelf with alumina,and added a small shelf 1/2 above the bottom shelf... definitely Gremlins
  9. It is sitter kiln that I added a Bartlett controller with solid state relays. You would think that it should not matter then where you load the large pieces but it does. I seldom load a large piece on the bottom but with the stuff I had there was not a choice.
  10. I recycle boxes from various shops and buy newspaper roll ends. I wrap all items then box and stuff the voids with paper( crinkled up) and then place in a larger box with more paper stuffed around it. I used to ship in a single box but lately have had to much breakage so I double box most items.
  11. Why is it that if I place a large bowl or platter in the bottom of the kiln they usually break on a bisque fire, i don,t dare on a glaze.The last time I thought I would fool the kiln and placed a 1/2" stilt and a small shelf on top of the bottom shelf to help insulate more from the bottom and still breaks, if I have the piece anywhere else in the kiln even close to the top it is fine. The Gremlin must live under the bottom shelf but I never see him when I clean the kiln.
  12. Min, I searched their site and only found Mayco wax. I will try some of the above methods with the wax and see if it helps. Thanks for the help.
  13. I have not done much with a wax resist but am learning ( slowly). I purchased the wax resist from PSH but not to happy with the results but it might be just using it badly. I apply cone 6 clear glaze by dipping and use wax on lidded pots. I have watered it down 10-15% and apply with a sponge on the wheel. I tried a brush but find I get more drips into the pot and can not clean the brush after. My biggest problem is I find there is a lot of glaze on the wax that is all in beads and have to wipe it off more than I like. I have tried thicker coats and find that the wax will start to ball up. I still find that my lids will often stick and have to drive a wood wedge in to release them. Is there a better wax to use of a better way to apply? Should I add Alumina to the wax to help? if so how much ? do I just stir it in or brush some on after waxing while it is still wet? Have been thinking of trying a paste floor wax and see if I get better results, may be essier to apply for my applications. Thanks
  14. Make sure the sitter is adjusted with close tolerance to the claw. I use a .004 feeler gauge when the adjustment plate is in. I also prefer bars instead of the cones .
  15. I had the same issues when I switched my cone 6 clear glaze. Have a look at the attached thread , I only had this on my large sinks and was fine on smaller items.
  16. Screws an be replaced with the next size up ( not longer but wider) to hold again, sometimes you have to drill the fastened part with a bigger hole, ie drill the hinge parts but not the kiln metal. Replace with stainless steel screws.
  17. Just found this one on Kijiji. Looks like a good deal
  18. Min if you have a LOT of clay to cycle Green Barn has a loaner pug mill to use.
  19. I have been throwing off and on for a few months. Now that I am getting used to it I have been noticing the pulsing sound that made me look closer at the wheel. I found the wheel head was not running true. Was wondering why centring was difficult as I use the bats to brace on, hope this solves some problems. Skutt has been good to me and sending out new head,shaft and bearing block to try to find the issue. I did a few videos and sent them to Skutt, looks like it might be a shaft but Skutt thinks it might be the wheel head. I will replace 1 part at a time to determine where the issue is.
  20. Tried changing the wheel position and made no difference. Will be interesting to see when the new parts come and find where the problem is.
  21. Would a bent shaft or wheel head cause the clay to throw uneven. Pulled a cylinder and trimmed the top, did another pull and was uneven again. When I cut it open I found one side was thinner than the other. Did not thing a warped wheel head would cause this.
  22. Got a reply shortly after posting. They are sending me a new wheel head, bearing block and shaft. They think it is the wheel head so I will start with that.
  23. Almost 4pm and they have not returned my calls. Not impressed. I will try and tighten everything, thanks Niel.
  24. I found I could not centre my mugs well or get flat bottoms on larger pieces so I had a closer look at the wheel. It has always made a pulsing noise in time with the wheel head and is more pronounced when I load it. I looked earlier but did not find a reason until now when I ran it and looked closer. I found there was a wobble in the wheel head, removed the head and found it was in the shaft. The drive pulley also has a wobble in it that will lightly shake the wheel when on a table and run on high. Tried to post a short video but the file is to large. Contacted Skutt yesterday and spoke to Daniel about a problem with my wheel and was asked to send some videos and information. I will phone them back this morning and find out their solution.
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