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About Harold Roberts
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Rank
Advanced Member
- Birthday 11/30/1954
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Website URL
http://coryellclayworks.com
Profile Information
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Location
Brunswick Maine
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1,567 profile views
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2Relaxed reacted to a post in a topic: Gray glaze - what to add to base other than a stain?
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Gray glaze - what to add to base other than a stain?
Harold Roberts replied to 2Relaxed's topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
Iron chromemate is poisonous and soluble so you must use rubber gloves and a mask when using it which is a good idea when using most ingredients in the pot shop. I think in a stable glaze it is safe. -
kristinanoel reacted to a post in a topic: Gray glaze - what to add to base other than a stain?
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Gray glaze - what to add to base other than a stain?
Harold Roberts replied to 2Relaxed's topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
Iron chromemate sometimes can produce semi transparent gray but it is fairly toxic. -
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Good clear glaze for Laguna Frost 6 porcelain
Harold Roberts replied to Lisa Alden's topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
This might work, EPK –--------------------- 5 Dolomite –---------------- 9 Gerstley Borate –-------- 27 Flint –-------------------- 27 Nephelene Syenite –---- 32 -
I can assume you are using this as a decorative effect and not as an eating surface. I would not call that a true glaze. I have a glaze I use that you could play around with. It is a metallic black but if you experiment with changing the manganese and cooper content it might work. Metallic Black Matte ^6 Dolomite –---------------- 6 Zinc Oxide –-------------- 9 Whiting ------------------- 9 EPK –---------------------- 11 Strontium Carbonate ---- 20 G200 Feldspar ----------- 45 Copper Carbonate –------ 4% Manganese Carbonate --- 8%
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Harold Roberts reacted to a post in a topic: I put a penny in the kiln- but what in the world happened?
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Babs reacted to a post in a topic: Hot Wax For Bottoms Of Pots?
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Hot Wax For Bottoms Of Pots?
Harold Roberts replied to Earth&Ware's topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
Soy wax sounds good. If you see to burn candles in the home than I see no problem in the studio. I don't like the wax resist stuff and I believe the fumes may be worse than candle wax in the firing. Temperature is key to good adherence. Hot, but don't let it burn. It works best on bisque ware. I mostly use a large rectangle of one inch foam that I soak in water first than squeeze out a bit and lie down on a table. Then, after I dip each pot, I slide it across the foam and that usually takes care of it. I mainly glaze green ware.