Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by docweathers

  1. Thanks for the scoop. Interesting, I've had CMC solutions setting around for years and never had any rot. Maybe it's just too cold where I live in Washington for them little critters to grow.
  2. What are the relative merits and demerits for CMC as opposed to V gum T?
  3. I only brush glazes on when the shape or pattern that I want is too complex for spraying. Since I originally posted this thread I have found that those little fan makeup brushes are wonderful for spreading smooth even glaze. I think this is a suggestion that one of you folks made, thanks
  4. For a long time I've been using a drafting pin and an iron oxide solution to write on the bottom of my pots. My results have been very inconsistent. Yesterday,. I figured out that if I made a solution of 50% bentonite and 50% iron oxide, it flowed much more evenly and wrote far clearer
  5. Mark How deep are you stacking the pots, i.e. how many shelve are down below what we can see in the pictures? Does this ever cause cracks and if so what configuration causes it? Has this ever gone wrong and what caused it?
  6. thanks for all the sagely advice. I will experiment with these ideas.
  7. I have seen pictures of pot stacked in the kiln in all kinds of strange ways for bisque firing, but never been brave enough to try it. What guidelines can you give me for how I can stack greenware for a bisque firing and be sure that I don't get some cracks from the contact between pieces. At this point, I have a large backlog of small platters ( 14 inches) that are about 1/4 of an inch thick. How dare I stack them for bisque firing?
  8. What was your rationale for the different percentages for the different colors? Are there any issues with the selection of the underlying glaze or is it slip?
  9. I've got the strainers So, I will give it a shot tomorrow. Are you putting the NS In all the glazes?
  10. Yes I did look at that and several other videos . I am having trouble getting the viscosity right to get a clean pattern.
  11. How could I find the name of the guy in the Pacific Northwest that is doing the acrylic like flow glazing? My results so far are quite mediocre and I could use whatever guidance I could get from him

    1. oldlady


      cannon beach is very small, there cannot be that many gift shops.  call the owners since employees change with the season.  anything that distinctive should be remembered.

    2. Gabby


      I think I have found him. I guessed that if he was at Cannon Beach, he would be represented by Dragonfire Gallery. There are maybe twenty galleries in the town, but the curators have widely different tastes. I think it is Matthew Patton.

    3. docweathers


      Thanks.  I'm following up on this Lead.

    4. Show next comments  12 more
  12. Are you referring to using the acrylic media or something else. If something else, do you know who he is or how he does this.
  13. I'm not familiar with acrylics, is this what you are referring to https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0042SR2QQ/?coliid=IYT7TIBYT5RJO&colid=3S4UIWXZFMHUX&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  14. Callie Thanks for reminding me that those Ukraine slip drilling videos were with D flocculation slip. Preeta I do glaze trailing all the time but is quite tricky since if the underlying glaze is that all liquid, your pattern may travel during firing. -- I'm experimenting with a variety of additive's such as Sodium silicate, Epsom salts, CMC, glycerin, flotrol and bumblebee farts. It seems very difficult to get the right consistency to both flow but not mix. I'll let you know if I come up with anything that works reliably.
  15. Does anyone know how to do this with ^6 glaze Acrylic paint pourng
  16. I think I found the answer. It is a two-part solution. First, I tried putting a little, cellulose, as in paper Clay, with quite a bit of CMC. This stopped the line from cracking into sections.. However, the whole line would peel up , sometimes actually pulling up most of the base glaze stuck to the bottom of my little white line. Second, To solve this, I'm now spraying the raw underlying glaze with a solution of CMC and letting it dry before applying the slip trailing. This works wonderfully. My little white line does not break into sections and it stays down amazingly well. In fact, it sticks down so well that it's really quite hard to scrape off, even when this procedure is applied to a very soft fluffy raw based glaze.
  17. Yes, I screwed up. I meant that it was ^6 clay that had been bisqued. I should have gone on to say that I bisque as ^04. If it continues to get any hotter, I will just set my stuff out in the sun to bisque.
  18. I'm just a beginner hobbyist so I have all the time in the world to test stuff. So, it looks like calcination and glazed nerds brushing media are the answers.
  19. Neil I'm trying to draw raised white lines on top of raw glaze on top of bisqued clay Preeta No it does not have to be slip. Under glaze would be fine as long as I can apply it over a raw glaze on a bisque pot and it will give me a smooth raised line. Do you have a favorite under glaze formula that would do this? Magnolia mud I do have some calcinated clay I could try. Glaze nerd I found your suspender very useful for a lot of things but I haven't given it a try for this. Maybe now is the time. Thanks all for your suggestions
  20. I know that slip trailing is usually done on green ware but like everything else, I'm gotta mess with a different approach. I need a slip trailing formula that I can put over ^ 6 glaze which is over ^6 bisqueware. I'm using Georgie's G mix 6/ grog. I've tried fiddling with some traditional slip trailing formulas but the shrinkage rate is so much different that my nice smooth lines turn into dashed lines as the trailing shrinks.
  21. I have a new whisper VL and love it. It's absolutely quiet and extremely responsive to speed changes, almost to a startling extent. I've never had any problems slowing it down even with very large 20 pound plus lumps of clay. However, I may not be stressing it as much because of the way that I throw dry with custom roller based tools. One of the reasons that I bought it is that the direct drive internal mechanics are a lot simpler than any other wheel. To me, that means less to break.
  22. I think I will stick to stoneware. I just checked the shrinkage values of porcelains vs my G mix/6.. Porcelain shrinks a lot less so my glaze would not fit. At this stage, I am not going to go through the ritual of modifying my glazes.
  23. My problem in trying various porcelains is where I live, Spokane Washington. There are no major suppliers here and shipping, particularly small amounts, of clay is quite ridiculous. It can easily cost more than the clay itself. Being the cheapie I am, that is a consideration. Some people think I'm so tight, I squeaked when I walk.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.