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docweathers

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Everything posted by docweathers

  1. I'm thinking about making a ball mill. I have figured out how to build a gizmo that will quickly interchange between a ball mill and a power slab roller. I would like to be able to mill 2 or 3 quarts at a time. You have offered some good suggestions. I'm trying to narrow down to the most likely successful alternatives because as a beginner ,I am trying out all too many new things, literally dozens of glazes on hundreds of test tiles etc.
  2. thanks for the perspective. It doesn't sound like a good book for my purposes
  3. Commercially made ball milling jar seem ridiculously expensive, so I am thinking about making my own. I understand that there are several potential problems with doing this. 1) Throwing an absolutely round jar... I have figured out how to solve this. 2) I understand that porcelain tends to warp drying and firing-- is this true and what can be done about it? (I have no experience with porcelain.) 3) I understand that the porcelain commonly available to Potters is softer than what is used in ball milling jars. Is this true? Where is harder porcelain available?
  4. Is anyone familiar with the Val Cushing Handbook? What are its merits and demerits for a beginning cone 6 Potter?
  5. Is Randy's Oatmeal Rust oxidation or reduction?
  6. I will switch to 300 mesh silica as soon as I use it my 200.
  7. I found this very well made how to make do-it-yourself raku tongues I thought others might find it useful. See attached .pdf RakuTongs.pdf RakuTongs.pdf
  8. I have heard varying opinions about whether one should ball mill most glazes. Do you find it worthwhile? What benefits do you observe?
  9. I will watch out for tin in my Mason stain glazes. I've also heard that zinc may be a problem. Is that true? I will have to research my ferrofrit's to see which ones of them have tin. I never thought about that possibility. In terms of cost of Mason stains, Axner seems to be the cheapest. Larry
  10. One approach I'm going to try is to soak feathers and horsehair in a thin colored slip or water-soluble metal salts such as ferric chloride, cobalt sulfate, copper sulfate or ???. Hopefully when the organic material burns out from the feathers or horsehair it will deposit the colorants and a pattern reflecting the structure of the material. Is there anything else that might be useful to try just so these things in? Is there anything that would makethe feathers and horsehair absorb the colorants better?
  11. I am firing manually with a gas kiln. I have been climbing at about 400° per hour. I have been corresponding with Vickory. He as been very helpful. This is the firing schedule that he recommends 500 degrees an hour to 2100then 100 an hour to 2232, 30 minute hold,500 degrees an hour to 2000, 10 minute hold 500 degrees an hour to 1900, 10 minute hold 500 degrees an hour to 1800, 10 minute hold. I like your cheating idea with granular iron oxide. I will definitely experiment with this. Part of my mixed results is been do to the extreme particularly on vertical surfaces. I'm getting ready to run some line blend tests, as victory does in his thesis, on increasing the dolomite to make it more suitable for vertical surfaces. thanks for the suggestions Larry
  12. thanks for the scoop Since I have sodium silicate and no darvan 7, it would seem that I could substitute about half the amount of sodium silicate that I might've used of Darvan.
  13. Oh well, but thanks for all the information about the dynamics of the problem.
  14. What are the relative merits and demerits of sodium silicate versus darvan 7 as deflocculants?
  15. Is there some way to get the horse hair affect at cone 6 rather than raku?
  16. Where do you get such magnets for $.99 each? Please give a link to the supplier.
  17. Thanks for the glaze recipe. I'm using a gas kiln, so I will try it in both oxidation and reduction. Larry
  18. I emailed Rick Malmgren about this.He states that "It sounds as though you are not getting proper reduction. You need to have the right amount of reduction at the right time in the firing cycle. We go into reduction at cone 010 and maintain it to the end of the firing. You’ll need to experiment with your kiln to get the right results." so the statement in the article that it can be fired "oxidation or reduction" is an accurate.
  19. Look at the picture in the attached PDF. He is getting both the blue-green and copper red in the same bowl.
  20. Here is the recipe. Note that it says oxidation or reduction. I was firing in a gas kiln under oxidation. For those unfamiliar with it, I have also attached the original document. It really has a lot of nice stuff in it. Blue-green / copper red glaze (Cone 6., oxidation or reduction) Talc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 .30 % Whiting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 .29 Ferro Frit 3134 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 .33 Kona F-4 Feldspar . . . . . . . . . . . . .46. .16. EPK Kaolin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6. .40 Silica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16. .52 100 .00 % Add: Tin Oxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 .24 % Zinc Oxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 .37 % Black Copper Oxide . . . . . . . . .1 .07 % Covering with clear glaze helps reduce burning out of red . From Rick Malmgren, Ceramics Monthly, October 2000 15cone6recipes.pdf 15cone6recipes.pdf
  21. I tried Rick Malmgren's Blue-green / copper red glaze from 15 tried and true cone 6 glaze recipes. I got a shiny transparent glaze with a slight green tint. Has anyone else tried this glaze, with what result? Any clue how to get the beautiful result that Rick displays it in that article?
  22. I didn't realize that there was an events section. I have posted it there. Thanks Larry
  23. Sometime ago I posted an MFA thesis by Frank Vickery on oil spot glazes Oil spot thesis, some of which are amazing. I have been corresponding with him about such things. He has been extremely helpful. He will be running a workshop at John C. Campbell folk school in Brasstown, NC September 22-28, part of which will cover oil spot glazes. He tells me that he will be demonstrating the use of test tiles to do a line blend or progression blend to show colors. He plans to mix a couple as well as bringing some already mixed to experiment with. Besides oil spots will be dealing with the full progression from making to finishing pots. You can see some of his stuff if you search "Frank Vickery pottery" on Facebook
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