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docweathers

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Everything posted by docweathers

  1. I have mine on order from Amazon. I will put this thing together this weekend. thanks for the idea and all the information
  2. I like your idea. However, I am unclear what this thin cloth matt is. Can you describe it in more detail and possibly send a picture?
  3. I assume this technique generates a lot of dust. How do you deal with the dust?
  4. I have always used a wet sponge to clean off bits of glaze on bisqueware that were unwanted. This is often tricky to get exactly what I wanted off and not get smears of the removed glaze. I just found a much easier and faster way to do it. Those rectangular green scouring pads provide more precise control and do not leave any smears. The removed glaze is just powder that can be easily blown off.
  5. This is not a recipe that I came up with. I have doctored it a little trying to reduce the shrinkage that can cause dashed lines versus a smooth continuous line. What I like about it is that you can put texture in the lines you draw and its stays.... it is quite stiff. I will have to dig out a picture of something that I've tried it on.
  6. Here is the recipe for the majolica that I added about 5% Elmers glue to. Recipe: Percent Batch FF 3134 3.80 242 Nepheline Sye. 30.09 1504 EPK 4.20 210 calcinated Dolomite 2.07 103 Whiting 8.49 424 Flint 41.09 2054 I Substitute here Zircopax 9.21 460 Totals: 100.00 % 5000 Gm Also add: alumina Hydrate 20.0 Bentonite 3.00 150 Epsom salts 0.50 25 none ------ I read the Alfred link that you posted. Very interesting. I will have to think about how to use it.
  7. if you don't call majolica glaze,, what's the proper term for the stuff you squirt through cake icing tools to make decorative lines. Thanks for the link to the very interesting article on slime. Can this slime/majolica still be used as majolica decoration. What will happen when I fire it?
  8. my majolica clay was not sticking well to bisque so I added some Elmers glue. Then things got weird. As soon as I mixed it in the majolica became very lumpy grainy and dry. What's going on .Have destroyed my majolica clay or can I thin it out and go ahead and use it with the Elmers. I must say it does take a lot better to the bisque after adding the Elmers.
  9. I use latex too... from Laguna Clay. As just a hobbyist potter, once I get something working, I lose interest in it and start experimenting with something else. Dumb I know, but that is what entertains me.
  10. Thanks Tom, those are some really good ideas. I will give them a try. I am surprised no one else made suggestions.
  11. I'm using 4 mil Mylar stencils. Glaze tends to crawl under the edge of the stencil which takes a lot of work cleaning up. I have tried making the glaze quite thick with CMC. This is helpful but it is not getting the job done. I am careful to brush away from the stencil. Suggestions please
  12. What are the pros and cons of cobalt aluminate vs cobalt oxide?
  13. I have experimented with a single layer of clear over encapsulated stains and that certainly helps. The idea of repeated firing of thin coats is interesting, but I really don't understand how that would work. I have no experience in refiring pots. I don't understand how you would not just melt both the prior layer and the most recent layer of clear so that it would behave like a thicker original coat. Please explain. I did find some pictures of Ron Nagle's work on the web, but it is hard to appreciate the depth of the glaze from the pictures.
  14. Thanks of the good ideas. I will give them a try.
  15. I like some of the colors that I get using encapsulated stains but I don't like how monochromatic they are. What can I do to get a little more depth to the colors?
  16. I asked Skutt how I might implement a Fallonator configuration with my 1227. This is what they said: "Hello Lawrence,We do not recommend introducing fuel into the chamber of an electric kiln. It can be quite dangerous to do so. In the case of the Fallonator it looks like you are depending on CO2 to displace any fresh oxygen in the kiln to prevent combustion, but if that CO2 fails to do its job you are turning the kiln into a big explosive container. The heating elements get well beyond the temperature needed to ignite the propane. I would recommend looking into Steven Hill's electric firing process. He is able to emulate the look of an atmospheric firing through spraying his glazes and firing very slow without bisquing the pots (once firing). This would be a much safer way to get the look of a gas fired piece. Here are some links to his articles:https://static1.squarespace.com/static/555a4afbe4b06f6e6f42474f/t/55712bc7e4b0334e5889b742/1433480135766/An+Approach+to+Single+Firing.pdfhttp://www.stevenhillpottery.com/articles/Generally speaking, introducing gas into an electric kiln chamber will deteriorate the elements and the brick, but it also has a chance of combusting. I would not recommend putting any sort of gas in your kiln. You may also be interested in asking around your community for access to a gas, salt, soda, or wood kiln. Wood kilns are a lot of fun!!"
  17. How about a simple diagram of the kiln you manufactured.
  18. I would Love to hear how a electric reduction kiln works. I had never even considered the possibility.
  19. How could I find the name of the guy in the Pacific Northwest that is doing the acrylic like flow glazing? My results so far are quite mediocre and I could use whatever guidance I could get from him

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. oldlady

      oldlady

      cannon beach is very small, there cannot be that many gift shops.  call the owners since employees change with the season.  anything that distinctive should be remembered.

    3. Gabby

      Gabby

      I think I have found him. I guessed that if he was at Cannon Beach, he would be represented by Dragonfire Gallery. There are maybe twenty galleries in the town, but the curators have widely different tastes. I think it is Matthew Patton.

    4. docweathers

      docweathers

      Thanks.  I'm following up on this Lead.

  20. There did not seem to be any noticeable heating of the metal even though the brush that I used had a lot more metal than most small brushes. I suspect that's because the metal is submersed in water and the microwave is only on for about 10 seconds.
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