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clayshapes

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  1. I traveled to India recently and came home with some wood block stamps...I'm experimenting with different palettes and designs. Lots of fun.
  2. clayshapes

    pods

    These are high fired without glaze, and then cold glazed with acrylic paints and finished with a sealing coat of varathane. They are purely decorative. Using acrylic paint gives me the opportunity to layer on the color, and see the results immediately.
  3. clayshapes

    ocean flower bowls

    These tiny little bowls started off as pinch pots, then got stretched onto molds I made from acorn squashes. After firing they were textured and glazed.
  4. clayshapes

    spring florals

    This collection is intended to make you smile - plates and small dishes impressed with floral designs for use as tapas plates, spoon rests, small serving piece and even wall art, grouped together. Popular at small craft shows I attend
  5. This little dish is part of a large collection of floral-themed organic shaped plates

    © &copy:clayshapespottery

  6. clayshapes

    Fish platters

    I'm experimenting with different palettes on a new collection of plates and platter that feature fish!
  7. I apply to leather hard greenware. Never dry greenware. Too fragile. I often wait to apply to bisqued pieces as well. I see no difference in color when I do this.
  8. I'm part of the "can't wait for Christmas" crowd here. I tell myself I won't open the kiln until it's at 200 -- but I ALWAYS open it sooner. I crack the lid and peek in -- sometimes at 400(!!!!). Then I close it, scold myself and issue a stern warning to be patient...go have a coffee...and then come right back down and peek again. It's quite common for me to unload the top shelf at about 300 (wearing oven mitts, of course). I can sometimes summon the patience to not go further than that -- but not often. I have been doing this for 2 years. I have NEVER had anything crack or break. I'm like the others who wonder -- If I can take something out of a 450 degree oven, why can't I take it out of the kiln? I'm sure there is a logical answer to that question, and a finger wagger will be along shortly to explain! Not that I recommend this. One of these days I'll learn my lesson -likely on a pot I can't recreate. Then I'll start meditating or something... or give up pottery all together...
  9. Just to come full circle in case anyone is interested -- I ended up with the Euclid. The configuration/footprint of this particular kiln for my small space was best -- that was really the deciding factor in the end. The ConeArt was going to make maneuvering safely in my tight space impossible. Plus, I do try to always go with simple over complex if it will do the job. And call me nuts, but I'm hoping that the Euclid cools down a bit faster than the ConeArt - because I am always impatient to see the results of my firings. I went for bumped up power -- because we determined that the issue with my old Duncan kiln is that it is really designed for people doing mostly low fire work, and it just doesn't have enough power to sustain regular mid fire (cone 6) use without annual element changes. I just replaced them last year and already they are significantly slowed down -- from a 10-hour cone 6 firing, to 14+ hours and never fully reaching temp. The tech suggested more power for the new one to help the elements last longer and I'm getting the upgraded thermocouplers as well. So this seems like sound advice. But equally important to making the decision to go with Euclid was the really good service I got from the guys at PSH -- they were on the phone with me several times helping me diagnose my old kiln's problems, walking me through multiple trouble-shooting tests to figure out if replacing parts would solve the problems. They actually wouldn't let me buy a new kiln until we'd tested all the parts and discussed my firing schedule and needs. In the end, we figured out there was really nothing wrong with my old kiln that new elements wouldn't fix, but that I'd be replacing them every year. I decided that upgrading to a kiln with more power and 3 inch walls (the old one has 2 1/2 inch walls) was a good move for the long run. My old Duncan is just not the right kiln for my use anymore. (I bought it used and it was a great first kiln for me - but not worth investing more $ in at this point). I'll take the it out to my cottage where I will use it to bisque fire when I'm working out there -- it's perfectly fine for that use, but can't manage the number of cone 6 firings I'm doing these days. I'm looking forward to getting my new kiln - and just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the great advice in this thread.
  10. Thanks everyone -- lots to think about! I really appreciate all the first hand as well as the "wishful wanting" comments. I can see it's not black and white so I'll be weighing all the options.
  11. Another very good point about stuff falling to the floor near a floor element. Very true in my kiln. I have a shelf on 2 inch posts just above the kiln floor, and somehow there are all kinds of drips and splatters on the floor...not to mention dust and bigger chunks that can sometimes fall (I vacuum it regularly). But if a cone, for instance, fell onto a floor element, that would not be a good thing. (I've had cones fall off shelves -- but assume, actually, that the elements are not that close to the edge. but still...) And wouldn't you have to raise the bottom shelf quite high, and give up vertical space, to get clearance from the bottom element? I may have just been talked out of bottom elements.... Both kilns I'm looking at are sectional, so that's covered. Thanks for all these helpful points.
  12. Thanks for confirmation! (I wasn't really considering it -- it would have been too embarrassing when I ordered it!)
  13. I should have mentioned one other thing -- I use an old Duncan kiln now with a kiln sitter and three settings -- high fire, ceramic and overglaze. My new kiln with have a digital controller -- which will be a whole new learning curve. A little nervous about moving out of the dark ages into the digital age -- and concerned about all the new things that can go wrong with a modern kiln...I'm even considering not getting the controller -- but think that's likely a dumb idea!
  14. Yes - I'm surprised that no one is familiar with Euclid -- they are widely available in the US as far as I can tell from the website. I'm sure it's a good kiln. I've visited the shop and seen them. I guess the advantages ConeArt has is the element in the bottom and all the stainless steel parts. And yes, they do still make sectional kilns (as does Euclid). There's not a big difference in price, really, between them -- so I guess it's really going to be a coin toss. And yes, Euclid is 3 inch brick -- so it sounds like the same difference, really. The funny issue for me -- and I can hear the lectures coming on -- is that I like to get my kiln open as quickly as possible. I fear that the cool down will be even slower in the double walled kiln -- which will test my patience! I won't even tell you the chances I've taken (with NO bad results...yet) at opening the kiln too early. This is a hazard of having a kiln at home where you can sneak down in the middle of the night and crack the lid....
  15. That's a very good point about sectional. I hadn't thought of that. The ConeArt also has an element on the bottom -- which is supposedly better for even heating as well. Thanks for the info.
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