Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About clayshapes

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

74,195 profile views
  1. I traveled to India recently and came home with some wood block stamps...I'm experimenting with different palettes and designs. Lots of fun.
  2. clayshapes


    These are high fired without glaze, and then cold glazed with acrylic paints and finished with a sealing coat of varathane. They are purely decorative. Using acrylic paint gives me the opportunity to layer on the color, and see the results immediately.
  3. clayshapes

    ocean flower bowls

    These tiny little bowls started off as pinch pots, then got stretched onto molds I made from acorn squashes. After firing they were textured and glazed.
  4. clayshapes

    spring florals

    This collection is intended to make you smile - plates and small dishes impressed with floral designs for use as tapas plates, spoon rests, small serving piece and even wall art, grouped together. Popular at small craft shows I attend
  5. clayshapes

    Fish platters

    I'm experimenting with different palettes on a new collection of plates and platter that feature fish!
  6. I apply to leather hard greenware. Never dry greenware. Too fragile. I often wait to apply to bisqued pieces as well. I see no difference in color when I do this.
  7. Yes I know, of course, that I can write my own program -- my inquiry was about what kind of program -- how to change it up in a safe way. Although I think I'll leave it be -- Neil's explanation makes sense.
  8. Thanks Neil - I was typing my reply to Chris when you were sending yours. For all it's lack of brains - I have to say the old Duncan worked pretty well. But I appreciate the fast glaze on my new kiln (Euclid). It just seems so counter intuitive to me since I'm used to the old way.
  9. Chris -- that's exactly what I said to the tech where I bought the kiln -- but I guess Bartlett figures that since the bisque is so slow and complete -- there's no need for very slow ramp for glaze firing. The manual specifically says that glaze firing can be fast. At first I thought there was an error in the manual -- how can a glaze firing only take 4-5 hours???? I can report, however, that all goes well with this schedule -- my glazes look the same as usual and the stoneware is ringing like a bell. I suppose it's the balance between the two -- and I guess I should be happy that the longer
  10. Thanks Neil -- I guess I'm confused about why my "fast bisque" takes 10-13 hours and my fast glaze only take 4-5 hours. Like I said, the opposite of what my old kiln did. The manual does state it will take this long for the bisque - I'm just wondering why it ramps ups so slowly, compared to my old kiln. I'll keep with the program for a while longer though -- my kiln is only a couple weeks old. And it's possible this very slow ramp up it will help prevent warping -- which is a bit of a problem for one of my clay bodies. Do you think this is a valid assumption? I know experience is what will a
  11. I got a new kiln two weeks ago with an electronic controller (yay) and am very pleased with it. But the pre programs for fast and slow bisque have pretty slow ramp ups -- an 04 bisique program runs between 10-13 hours. A fast glaze firing takes 4-5 hours at cone 6. This is the opposite of my old prehistoric kiln (Duncan) -- which had a dial and three settings -- overglaze, ceramic and high fire. It was set to ceramic for an 04 bisque (or lowfire clay glaze) took about 6 hours. It was set at "high fire" for a cone 6 glaze - and took about 10-14 hours (depending on the age of my elements).
  12. I'm part of the "can't wait for Christmas" crowd here. I tell myself I won't open the kiln until it's at 200 -- but I ALWAYS open it sooner. I crack the lid and peek in -- sometimes at 400(!!!!). Then I close it, scold myself and issue a stern warning to be patient...go have a coffee...and then come right back down and peek again. It's quite common for me to unload the top shelf at about 300 (wearing oven mitts, of course). I can sometimes summon the patience to not go further than that -- but not often. I have been doing this for 2 years. I have NEVER had anything crack or break. I'm like th
  13. Just to come full circle in case anyone is interested -- I ended up with the Euclid. The configuration/footprint of this particular kiln for my small space was best -- that was really the deciding factor in the end. The ConeArt was going to make maneuvering safely in my tight space impossible. Plus, I do try to always go with simple over complex if it will do the job. And call me nuts, but I'm hoping that the Euclid cools down a bit faster than the ConeArt - because I am always impatient to see the results of my firings. I went for bumped up power -- because we determined that the issue
  14. Thanks everyone -- lots to think about! I really appreciate all the first hand as well as the "wishful wanting" comments. I can see it's not black and white so I'll be weighing all the options.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.