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oldlady

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Everything posted by oldlady

  1. preeta, your post overlapped my slow typing. just once i wish someone would say that they took my suggestion and tried it and it worked. UNLESS YOU ARE ATTACHING A HANDLE OR SOMETHING ELSE slow drying is not necessary. what can it hurt to try drying something flat on drywall or something that will absorb water from the bottom as well as having the top air dry? (you can slide it around to see how much water is coming off the bottom a few hours after putting it down.)
  2. that seems a lot. i started feeling the china in the big department stores many years ago. it seems to be less than a quarter inch. my platters are mostly slab made. i start with the 1/4 and compress the slab by rolling texture from the various leaves that i use deep into the clay. it is a very smooth clay, no grog. so i am really using 1/4 inch of material smashed flatter by a pony roller and a final 30 inch long rolling pin. the thrown platters are made with a cylinder opened with a broomstick handle inserted vertically and then folded quickly down to horizontal (as close as possible) so i do not know the final thickness. it is trimmed away because the stick forces the thin cylinder wall to compress downward as it is being shaped, leaving a thicker area near the footring. if you watch the video on making plates by Bill VanGilder, he shows making the plate the way you do platters and also explains the rising of the rim while drying.
  3. jess, try sending a private message to Lev so He/She sees it. just click on Lev's avatar and look for the envelope to do it.
  4. Martin, what made you decide to buy this particular wheel? i will be very interested in how this works out. this appears to be one of those cheap wheels we talked about last year when they started showing up all over ebay.
  5. doc, how thick is the average area on your platters? a lot of people think thick is better for strength. it ain't necessarily so. alice (the person who makes a lot of long or big platters less than 1/4 inch thick, dries them immediately on drywall and single fires on sand after glazing)
  6. this is a sort of want-ad section of the forum. if you just want advice on what will work for you, try asking in the equipment section. and if you are looking for a used wheel there are lots of places you can buy one close to wherever you are. you might go to the top of the forum listings and use search for the type of wheel you seek.
  7. the coleman plate shown has been sprayed. the colors go on top of the dried but not fired base glaze. the larger shapes of the brightly colored areas are controlled by using a cardboard or something like it to prevent colors from some areas. the tiny red lines are trailed. this is not the way tom currently works. he did a number of really strange things when he moved from oregon to las vegas as a reaction to people telling him to "loosen up" his very beautifully controlled work up til then. read the first book about his working toward a special show and then the second one written years later. the 1978 title is The mud-pie dilemma and the second is something close, i only have the first book. he has lent his name to the colored glazes but he does make his own glazes and fires to cone 10 or more.
  8. the printed label refers to things that are usually not fired very hot. i think decals and china paints are not done over cone 06 and decals even less. doll heads are usually referred to as bisque on the Antiques Roadshow and in the books i have seen. doesn't that indicate 06 or so even if using porcelain? not having any experience in this, i am just assuming from hearsay. would be nice to find out the real story.
  9. hello, tracey and welcome! can you explain a little more about what you want to achieve? do you plan to work on the wheel or maybe do sculpture or make something in your hands alone? what experience do you have in learning about making pottery? do you exclusively use the internet or do you visit your local library? are you in an area where pottery classes are being offered in the type of work you plan to do? are you a new student somewhere and want to start out on your own now? the field is so broad that your questions will be answered more readily if you can narrow down what you want to know.
  10. preeta, a picture is worth a thousand words. a video is even better.
  11. if you can carry it, take it outside and let them live. once they are gone, you can reclaim your reclaim, add bleach and carry on.
  12. if you have a Paint your own Pottery store nearby, you can ask if they will look at some of the pieces to see if they recognize them. there are not that many manufacturers of molds and the normal kind found all over the US is fired at 06 for both bisque and glaze. as a precaution, never fire to cone 6 unless you know the source of the work to be fired.
  13. there are two simple things you can do with your GIFFIN GRIP that will help all the time. the first is to line up the grip on the wheelhead making sure not to hit a bat pin. then take a sharpie or other marker and draw two vertical lines on the metal wheelhead using the sides of each of the 3 black holders on the rim of your wheelhead as a guide to mark exactly where to put the grip next time. the second is to hold a sharpie, maybe a new one so the lines are crisp, vertically above the grip and spin it. put concentric lines about a half inch or so, no need for perfection, apart all the way across the surface of the grip. you have to hold the sharpie tightly because it will want to fly out of you hand at the grooves. if you then use your sharpie to follow the groove all the way across the grip surface so it lines up ......... this is too hard to describe so nobody can possibly misunderstand such a simple concept so i am posting a photo. if you mess it up somehow, you can remove all the sharpie marks with hairspray WHICH CONTAINS ACETONE for those who will feel compelled to correct me.
  14. they are fine. stop worrying. once dry, clay items can stay intact for years, i have a friend who made a sculpture and kept it for many years before finally firing it. it is now finished and fine. there is no need to do anything to what is a natural event. no hairspray is needed. just put them out of the way on a shelf and leave them alone until you can get them fired. you might benefit from some textbooks on pottery making.
  15. no, for your own integrity. if you have gone to all the trouble to learn everything you have learned, bought all those materials, spent all that time perfecting your skills, you deserve much more than the paltry $5 you are asking for your work.
  16. depending on the size of the finished window, using tubular brass to punch out the holes works easily. if you go to a hobby shop where people make models, there will be a rack of brass tubes, square and round. get the right size and one just a little smaller. cut the right size shorter than the smaller one so you can punch out the window and then push out the clay from the tube.
  17. thank you, hulk the potter who gave me the recipe said he got it from a book but did not remember which one. i am still trying out white clays to replace my little loafers. i threw several bowls with Standard 365 and they were given raw to a fund raiser for a shelter nearby. they were bisqued and glazed in a shared studio and the finished product was much whiter than my more ivory colored little loafers. should be since it is a porcelain. the glaze was really good on most of them but i noticed that over Stroke and Coat, which is a glaze and not an underglaze or slip, there are slightly rough spots. since these were only on those small flowers that i sponge on, i do not think there will be a problem with the bowls. since i single fire and put the stroke and coat over my white glaze, i have never seen the kind of roughness these flowers showed. maybe the bisque firing of the S&C caused it. the slipped ones came out great. AND the leaves were still GREEN! so i really look forward to using that clear. along with the great one from Min last year, i should have a perfect choice for the clay that i will use. probably not 365, it reacts like rubber to tools, no crisp lines even with titanium tools. both clays were glazed with absolutely no bubbles visible on any of them. i have seen those foamy looking tiny bubbles on other people's work but nothing like that here. BTW, some of the bowls were made with all the scraps and trimmings of student work. that clay is pugged and put out for student use, no telling what that stuff is but no bubbles on any that i saw. i will try to get the book you suggest was the origin. it is one i have not seen so i will ask my library to get it on an inter-library loan basis. thank you so much for the lead.
  18. thank you for all this information. i hope other folks can use it as well. i wish i had a scale that shows 2 decimal points so i can take advantage of the precision of the formula.
  19. very nice! no time now but will make both this week.
  20. thank you bill. my search is for a no zinc glaze that might work with green slip. i do not know any chemistry and i see that the amounts in your recipe are significantly different from what i posted. then i saw "flowing look" and wonder if you are referring to a glaze that slides down the pot or something else. your photo shows a wonderfully shiny glaze on the interior that looks similar to the one i tested on a tiny bowl so i wonder which recipe is better? the one i posted is used in a shared studio and teaching situation with all kinds of clay, some just whatever is left over and pugged together. have you used it over green underglazes or slips? does it change the color of the underglaze or slip? i ABSOLUTELY never want a glaze that runs or slides down.
  21. this is for a very nice clear glaze that seems to work on many different clay bodies. source unknown but i always try to find out the origin of any recipe before i use it. clear glaze cone 6 gertsley borate 21 wollastonite 8 neph sy 30 EPK 10 silica 325 31 total 100 thank you.
  22. try adding some clorox and stirring it well. i have slips that i made over 25 years ago and sometimes it needs cleaning up.
  23. just FYI, cobalt oxide can sometimes leave tiny specks of really dark color wherever you apply it. cobalt carbonate is more easily dispersed in water or slip or whatever you like as a medium.
  24. just reminded of the radon mitigation necessary here. did you do that as well?
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