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Everything posted by oldlady

  1. did you know the pa craft guild was going to pick you for the photo on the billboard? they made a good choice.
  2. up in smoke, the ocarina maker who had to show everyone how it worked.
  3. WHOOOOHOOOOO! RADIANT HEAT IS GOING SOMEWHERE! the dog will love it too! (photos of the old schoolhouse to convert to living space so i can plan what i want to do with it would be nice. oh, and the address.)
  4. welcome to the forums. it would help to know where in the world you are, i am guessing not the USA by the use of kg in your post. it is true that adding water to the powder will make slip. it is also true that it might not work with your clay. it is also true that you might test the slip and clay to see if it does work. sometimes there is no apparent problem in the beginning but a badly fitting slip will peel off over time. i bought one fantastic lidded canister that has a fabulous matte glaze and a great shape. unfortunately, the slip around the rim has peeled up and flaked off. i still admire it but it lives on a high shelf and is only a visual treat. there are technical folks here who will be able to help you but would like to know lots more about the clay you use. do you have any info that will help them?
  5. liam, do not know what your goal is but if you want a recipe for a simple Luster glaze, try this. 20 g each of frit 3134, dolomite, spodumene, ball clay and silica. the one i have is written for green so add copper carb 6 and zircopax 10. really good looking green but it flattens out texture. makes lots of colors also.
  6. MFP, congrats on finding something that will keep things organized and visible so you know when to buy more. just fyi, if you need to change the label you have put on the jar, try some inexpensive hair spray and a cotton ball. if it is a sharpie, the ink will come off with perhaps a slight shadow. if so, use more hairspray and wipe it off again. so much better than a paper or tape label that can come off and leave you with a question of what is inside that jar.
  7. love my grip but i do not make mugs. you might practice with something else, a glass from the kitchen might be ok to start with. not a good one! but try to use the sliders. just practice holding the glass in the sliders at differing speeds first of all. when you are comfortable with that, apply a little pressure to the part which would be trimmed off. once you feel that balancing just right, try a mug. maybe just throw a couple of practice mugs for this step. you will learn to love your grip.
  8. OK, thanks for the excellent explanation, but i have a question about any possible problem if a tiny bit of oil gets into a glaze. won't it just burn out without having any effect on the pot? it seems like such an unlikely event and the amount so small that i am going to put my blinders back on and not worry about this.
  9. pyewackette, an old lady's opinion, only opinion, no scientific knowledge, is that you need to have a compressor that is not so big that you cannot handle moving it around. and you might consider not buying one at all. spraying glaze will mean a whole new learning curve that might not be what you want to do. is there a specific advantage you see to spraying glaze? how do you do it now? is that so bad? as far as compressors go, i have killed one of the small kind, a two gallon, i think, hotdog shape, by spraying glaze continuously. that was the first one i had ever used and had no training or experience so i did not realize the heavy duty use i was putting it to. it was designed for short bursts, like one nail at a time. eventually, an 8 gallon one died but i think it was from old age, i used it for many years before replacing it a few years ago with a huge one from sears. it is only a 10 gallon tank and it is too heavy for me to move easily so it sits in front of the window next to the spraying space outside. i run the hose out the window when it is in use and just put the hose back when i am finished. i started spraying when i began making shapes that did not lend themselves to dipping. i really think you would be better off having someone else paint the room or house. it would be a one-time cost and so worth not having to do it yourself. it might cost even less than the more expensive compressor. as far as oil or no oil goes, how would oil get into the air tank in the first place?
  10. Ooooooohhhhhh........................................... feel your pain.........
  11. anan, you might be referring to my posts where i say i use the oven to warm glazed ware enough to have it accept glaze. i have been doing this for years and have only used the lowest temperature my oven can go, 170 degrees F. yes it may be in some way dangerous for ANY reason, but i cannot imagine what it would be. residue in the oven??? how would that happen? one hundred and seventy degrees is too hot to handle without a towel and if i only use pot holders, the pot is cool by the time i get it to the spray area. on hot days, putting pots in the sun will warm them enough to accept a new layer of glaze. they only need to get hot enough to make handling them uncomfortable. i have been told that "doing it for years is like walking on the edge of a knife and i might fall off at any moment." it is true that everyone has a different threshold of fear on different subjects. maybe i am just too stupid to be afraid.
  12. why not just add water to some of your basic clay to form a slip. then add color. there should be no adverse effects if you are using the same materials. earthenware clay and the same earthenware clay with color will give you a clay with the same properties as the original clay.
  13. if you are testing glazes, be sure to put something under the tests to catch the runoff if you have applied it thickly. and have a good kiln wash on your shelves.
  14. he is suggesting that you try the substitutes since you cannot get the originals and single fire. he is our clay expert and his advice is usually sound.
  15. read glazenerd's answer above.
  16. rew, it only takes a few minutes to keep the studio clean, or, at least cleaner than it is now. if you have a kitchen timer, set it for 15 minutes and begin washing down your horizontal surfaces putting things away as you get to them. bet you will be surprised when the timer goes off and you see how much you got done in such a short time. getting my kids to clean by color worked for them. pick up everything that is blue. now red, now yellow. that was when they had colorful toys. a timer works for me.
  17. one thing you might want to consider is where in the world you are going to be situated. yes, the world. will your booth open toward the east so the front of it will be exposed to very intense sunlight early in the day? if so, be careful not to burn customers who might pick up something dark and therefore extra hot. having an awning built into your tent is very helpful. if you can buy another one for the opposite side, do it. you might not be able to use both every time but when you can it is very good to have. will the wind be blowing and from what direction? are you going to be broiled by the afternoon sun by putting your chair in the left or the right back corner? look at the map that you are given to find your booth and make sure you know where N S E and W are in relation to the front of your tent. plan ahead is an old saying but it is a good one.
  18. i do not use a gas kiln at all. years ago, between 1975 and 1990, i did stack a round gas kiln for a friend with a broken arm. she said she had never seen anyone stack that way and it was the best firing she had done in years. wasn't to get me to do the next one, it was true that her work looked better. all i did was try to fit the odd shaped sculptures and other "normal" pots so air would flow around them. some shelves were whole and some half. some of the half shelves fit into the odd spaces left under the arms of the sculptures so nothing was stacked in a straight vertical line. they almost spiralled up inside the kiln. maybe that kind of stack allows the air and flames to penetrate differently enough to make it work.
  19. you could have someone with longer arms put a shelf into the bottom using posts under it. make sure you can then reach the new "bottom". i had to do this recently.
  20. yes, you are being unreasonably neurotic.
  21. see the other post. you really only need to post once.
  22. i assume you have contacted the distributor and the manufacturer. if so, call them on the telephone, talk to the store manager and if you need to, the person in charge of quality control at the factory. DO NOT SEND AN EMAIL! you will get no response unless you take an active role in talking to the person in charge who has the authority to correct this. emphasize the fact that you are not a rank beginner and therefore you know what you are talking about. offer to send a short video with sound so they can see what is happening.
  23. look at the side of the metal box on your kiln for all the information printed. LT-3K is the number of the kiln sitter, a shut-off device, nothing to do with the kind of kiln.
  24. are your current shelves going to be used in the new kiln? if so, check that finger width spacing. with gloves on, it is sometimes hard to get fingers under the shelves in my 3 inch brick kiln.
  25. $250 sounds really high for my part of the country. it is really old.
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