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dhPotter

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  1. Like
    dhPotter got a reaction from Min in Hello DHPotter- I keep running into the image of your two yellow and red mugs from yo   
    Hey Jeremy,
    In John Britt's ^6 book the recipe on page 148 is not what I'm using. Page 176 is closer to what I'm using. My recipe is straight from the horse's mouth - I took a workshop with Steven Hill 2 years ago. My Red Orange has 9.00 red iron oxide instead of 11.5 the book has. 
    SCMW
    Custer Feldspar.............    46.00  
      Calcium Carbonate...........    17.20  
      EP Kaolin...................    15.00  
      Strontium Carbonate.........    12.60  
      Ferro Frit 3124.............     4.60  
      Lithium Carbonate...........     4.60  
      Titanium Dioxide............    12.00  
      Yellow Iron Oxide...........     2.50  
      Bentonite...................     2.00  
                                  =========
                                     116.50
    Hannah's Fake Ash Iron - The book is way different - this is from the workshop.
      Redart......................    56.10  
      Calcium Carbonate...........    29.00  
      Strontium Carbonate.........    10.10  
      Ferro Frit 3195.............     4.80  
      Iron Oxide Red..............     3.30  
      Yellow Iron Oxide...........     2.80  
      Bentonite...................     1.00  
                                  =========
                                     107.10
    My firing schedule - slightly different than the book's. No hold at 1700 - I tried it but got what you are getting - bumpy, scratchy surface. The slow climb from 2050 up to temp and the hold at 100 degrees less than top temp is for healing pinholes. It works.
    Segment        Rate F*/HR    Temp    Hold
       1            200         220     30-60
       2            100         500      0
       3            400        2050      0
       4            108        2185^     15
       5           9999        2085     20
       6           9999        1700      0
       7             50        1600     60
       8             50        1500      0
    My clay is a white stoneware, Laguna 609.
    Rules for Hannah's Fake Ash Iron - do not allow any glaze under or over this glaze. However, I can't help but get a little overspray onto the fake ash iron. Do not put on thick - it will blister badly. Seems a light application is better - and that goes for SH Copper Ash also. The fake ash Iron is a tan color when done correctly. I don't care for the Fake Ash Blue - it blisters no matter how it is applied.
    I apply SCMW and C lightly also. Then spray the red orange till I get the chunky velvet look. I spray a light coating of JuicyFruit, about 2-3 turns of the banding wheel and spray on the upper third of the pot. I found glazes with SCMW and C are scratchy without the JuicyFruit. It tends to make the glaze feel soft. 
    In the pic I remembered spraying the Red Orange on lightly to get the yellowish that appears in the vertical lines between the red blotches. I just sprayed SCMW in the vertical lines only - very tight application area.
    The 8% added silica was for a Red Orange liner, but I don't use it as a liner anymore.  
    This order of application is Steven Hill's - Pour liner first and let dry overnight. Spray the SCMW or C on first. Then spray the ash glaze. Then spray any other glazes. Don't be afraid to wipe a glaze off with a damp sponge - even on greenware. Sometimes I want a different color foot. After all other spraying is complete then will wipe down the foot area and apply the different color glaze to the foot only. But if it is white I want on the foot it will be the first glaze applied - My white plays well with colored glazes lightly sprayed over it.
    Have you tried Bailey's Red 2 over SCMW? This glaze lights up more yellowish. The glaze is on Pg 88. I use tricalcium phosphate instead of bone ash.
    Hope I have answered all of your questions. Good luck,
    dhPotter
  2. Like
    dhPotter got a reaction from LeeU in Back to work for two weeks then a new hip for my wife-two weeks off for me then to ca   
    Before long she will feel better than new. No pain, yippee! Mobility, yippee! 
  3. Like
    dhPotter got a reaction from Chilly in Lovely feedback received from a recipient of one of my snowflake mobiles. Happy potte   
    woo hoo - way to go Chilly
  4. Like
    dhPotter got a reaction from terrim8 in Starting to read thru the gerstley borate substitute items on the forum. Has anyone t   
    Boraq is what I use. Have used it from the beginning. 95% of the time it is an even swap gram for gram with GB, using InSight Glaze software. 
  5. Like
    dhPotter got a reaction from Joseph Fireborn in Going to run some line blends today. I want to matte down my standard white glaze sli   
    Think about using this glaze to do your line blend - https://digitalfire.com/4sight/recipes/cone_6_dolomite_matte_base_glaze_121.html
    I used this and a clear in a line blend to get an excellent satin white liner glaze. Came out to use 40% clear and 60% dolomite matte. Had 3 good candidates to choose from. I was looking for a white liner that was not to shiny but not scratchy. 
  6. Like
    dhPotter got a reaction from roobarb in Hi! I ended up here because of your heading "single firing an electric kiln to ^6! I   
    Hey joanbrady.
    OldLady is the reason I single fire now. She made it sound so easy. I bought Steven Hill's video on spraying glazes. Bought a Critter sprayer, a compressor from HarborFreight. I will say the critter stayed in its box for a couple of months - fear of the unknown. When I started to spray not enough glaze was being put on the piece. Took about 5 test firings before I got the hang of it. Been spraying now for about 2 years - will never go back to dunking donuts - haplessly dipping pots.
    OldLady said the glaze should look like chunky velvet as an indicator to how much glaze to spray on the piece. I have posted that pic several times in spray glaze threads.
    I have dipped single fire test tiles. But, the glaze was way too thick or either the clay sucked it up. I don't dip greenware test tiles anymore.
    Yes it takes more time to spray than dip. But the freedom you get from spraying is just outrageous. The firing schedule must change but only in the very beginning. Up to 500*F, then fire the schedule you have always used. 
    I do pour into closed pieces just like I did for bisque ware. Wait overnite then start spraying the next day. Bowls are sprayed on the outside first, sitting upside down on a banding wheel. Then turn them right side up and spray the inside.
    You don't need a fancy spray booth. I used a converted trash can for a booth for the first year. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.417445012878.195322.344268547878&type=3
    Figured it was time to step up to a better booth and made one out of a shower base and plastic cardboard for the walls and ceiling with a bathroom fan for exhaust. 
     
    You can PM me if you want any pics or more info. Glad to help. 
    You are going to love single fire. I guarantee.
    DH
  7. Like
    dhPotter got a reaction from terrim8 in You know how you southerners blame the Alberta Clipper for cold weather? I grew up du   
    You know, the scientist are saying about 6 southern states are in an unusually cold pattern that has been going on since the 1960's. They call it a "Warming Hole" - go figure... 
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