terraforma Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 I'm starting to play with multicolor designs using wax resist over glaze (dip, wax a design, sponge off around wax design, repeat...). The wax I use is your run-of-the-mill water-based resist, and I find that it remains too soft even when I allow it to dry overnight. It will tend to stick to my fingers and the sponge if I'm not extremely careful and gentle, and will peel off in spots, often taking the glaze underneath with it. Frankly, it doesn't even "resist" the glaze as well as it should... Is there a better resist I can use over glaze that will be harder, less sticky and likely to pull off the glaze, suited to fine line detail, and better at actually resisting glaze? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 I like the Aftoosa bluish water based liquid wax for covering glaze. It does need to dry for 2 hours. you shouldn't touch the surface with fingers. but it does work and is tough enough for what you are describing. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Michael Kline Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 I use the mobil wax sold at highwater clays. Great stuff. But I don't use it over glazes, so I can't help with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SShirley Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 I'm starting to play with multicolor designs using wax resist over glaze (dip, wax a design, sponge off around wax design, repeat...). The wax I use is your run-of-the-mill water-based resist, and I find that it remains too soft even when I allow it to dry overnight. It will tend to stick to my fingers and the sponge if I'm not extremely careful and gentle, and will peel off in spots, often taking the glaze underneath with it. Frankly, it doesn't even "resist" the glaze as well as it should... Is there a better resist I can use over glaze that will be harder, less sticky and likely to pull off the glaze, suited to fine line detail, and better at actually resisting glaze? You might look at using laquer as a resist. It works great in greenware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terraforma Posted March 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Thanks everyone for your suggestions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay lover Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 At the school I attend, we use Forbes wax for bottoms, because it dries quicker than Mobile, which seem to never dry and stay soft. For wax resist, we mix Forbes and Mobile equal amounts, and get a mix that dries well and doesn't pull up the underneath glaze, yet resists the 2nd glaze well. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossyrock Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 I just finished glazing some pieces where I put latex on a pattern on the bisqued piece, dipped the piece in glaze, after the glaze dried, I put Forbes wax resist over the glaze, pulled off the latex, then dipped in a different glaze. The Forbes wax resisted the glaze well and any remaining dots of glaze were easily sponged off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terraforma Posted April 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Claylover and Mossyrock - thanks for the new info! I will have to check out this wax as well. I hadn't thought of starting a design with a layer of latex resist, but it makes perfect sense - one less layer of glaze that I have to go back and wipe completely off, plus at least one color layer with crisp edges! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossyrock Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 A word of advice when using latex......apply several layers and allow to dry thoroughly before dipping in the glaze. Sponge glaze off the latex. If you don't put enough layers (3-4) of latex on the piece, removing it is worse than peeling off wallpaper that's been glued to unprimed sheetrock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 I have used rubber latex resist as a mask for glaze because it can be pulled off bisque airfare that can be later work.see CM May 1998. B ut rubber latex does not work on top of a glaze. atofsa wax does. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 I'm starting to play with multicolor designs using wax resist over glaze (dip, wax a design, sponge off around wax design, repeat...). The wax I use is your run-of-the-mill water-based resist, and I find that it remains too soft even when I allow it to dry overnight. It will tend to stick to my fingers and the sponge if I'm not extremely careful and gentle, and will peel off in spots, often taking the glaze underneath with it. Frankly, it doesn't even "resist" the glaze as well as it should... Is there a better resist I can use over glaze that will be harder, less sticky and likely to pull off the glaze, suited to fine line detail, and better at actually resisting glaze? There are water based wax resists designed to go directly over bisque, and there are those designed to go over glaze. Check the specs on websites to find what you need. I have used Baileys to find exactly what I need whether on glaze or underglaze in the way of a resist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terraforma Posted April 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 Mossyrock - your experience surprises me. I thought that latex might behave this way when I first started using it, so I tried to layer it thickly, thinking it would peel off easily if thin...I found out I was wrong when even the thinnest layer at the edges would pull off readily. Maybe it's the type of latex resist? I used the ammonia-based latex from Laguna Clay - even when I thin it with water, it is still wonderfully easy to peel off of leatherhard and bisqueware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terraforma Posted April 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 Thanks, Pres - it's always good to contact manufacturers and suppliers directly for their advice on these things, and I forget that at times! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossyrock Posted April 10, 2011 Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 Mossyrock - your experience surprises me. I thought that latex might behave this way when I first started using it, so I tried to layer it thickly, thinking it would peel off easily if thin...I found out I was wrong when even the thinnest layer at the edges would pull off readily. Maybe it's the type of latex resist? I used the ammonia-based latex from Laguna Clay - even when I thin it with water, it is still wonderfully easy to peel off of leatherhard and bisqueware. Mickey....many thanks for your post! I will definitely order some latex from Laguna. I've been using latex from Highwater Clay. It doesn't have a brand name....just says 'Liquid Latex'. I thought all latex would be that hard to remove from bisqueware unless it was thick. Do you coat your brush with soap before applying to help with cleanup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terraforma Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 Hi Brenda, No - I just try to paint quickly with the latex. If I suspect it's starting to dry on the brush, I'll wash it with soap and water and then continue to use the latex. Cleanup is the same - soap and water. Of coarse, I don't use my best brushes for this! This stuff is so much fun to peel off when I'm finished with it. Although Laguna said I couldn't thin the resist with water, I have done that when I needed a better painting consistency and it seems to work perfectly well. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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