Rebekah Krieger Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I have been using a celadon recipe from Pinterest and it crazes horribly... Like the worst I have ever seen. I like the blue/aqua shades better for celadon. I use the amaco one but it is too green, I don't like how it looks. Does anyone have a celadon that they fore cone 5-6 that doesn't craze easily or have other advice for me? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Pictures will help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Miller Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Would I be right in assuming there's quite a bit of soda/potash feldspar in the Pinterest recipe? A lot of traditional celadons craze because they have high COE due to the presence of soda (edit: and potassium!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 If you have access to a Hamer and Hamer book Glaze defects you could solve the problem You could try reducing the silica by a small fraction ..like .2 or .3 % and see if that helps. An you may have to increase the kaolin by a small amount as well. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebekah Krieger Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 This is not recently thrown, (so please ignore the strange bottom of this bowl) but it's the celadon, and it shows how badly it crazes. You see the dark spots from me using it to pour and scoop glazes since I obviously can't eat from this bowl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebekah Krieger Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 http://www.glazemixer.com/singlerecipe.aspx?RecipeID=3526&glazeRecipeName=Light%20Blue-green%20celadon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Tweeking the glaze needs to be done. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 First off, cone 6 'celadon' glazes are not true celadon glazes. They are celadon in color, but that's about it. True celadon glazes are fired in reduction, and use iron oxide for their color. They can be as tricky as copper reds to get the right color. A cone 6 celadon is simply a clear glaze that use green stain and/or copper to give the celadon color. Nothing wrong with that, but be aware of the difference. You can get a nice celadon color from just about any cone 6 clear glaze with the right combination of stains and/or copper carbonate. So if you have a good clear recipe with the surface qualities you like, and that fits well on your clay body, try making it a celadon color. If you want to tweak the glaze you've got, start by adding equal parts EPK and flint in 3% (each) increments. The added clay will also help keep all that frit suspended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Miller Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 For ease of discussion, here's the recipe from the link rebbylicious provided : original link. Ferro frit 3195: 70% EPK: 8% Wollastonite 10% 200 mesh silica 12% Add: Epsom salt 0.25% 325 mesh Bentonite 2% Copper Carbonate 0.10% Mason stain #6201 celadon 0.50% Could it maybe be overfired? I would expect this glaze to melt around maybe cone 3? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 This is not recently thrown, (so please ignore the strange bottom of this bowl) but it's the celadon, and it shows how badly it crazes. You see the dark spots from me using it to pour and scoop glazes since I obviously can't eat from this bowl. Why can't you eat from this bowl?The japanese have been using crazed potttery with food for centuries ? As long as it is cleaned and sanitized appropriately I don't see why you can't eat or drink from this bowl? I have a few pieces that are starting to show coffee and tea - patina. On purpose... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Some crazing can be caused by fast cooling. It could be cooled too fast in a small electric. Try putting a shelf near the lid over the load, and M=If you have it, put some fiber or insulating bricks on the top of the kiln to hold in the heat. And to make Neil happy, call it a Faux celedon. I posted my Faux Celedon recipe last time this topic came up. http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/2676-cone-56-celedon-glaze/?hl=celedon Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I posted the recipe and the picture of the ^6 Faux celedon piece in my gallery in the topic Forum Discussions.. BTW, I won Best of Show and $1000 with that piece at the Brownsville Museum of Art. Bragging rights! Made me happy! Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 And to make Neil happy, call it a Faux celedon. I posted my Faux Celedon recipe last time this topic came up. http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/2676-cone-56-celedon-glaze/?hl=celedon Marcia Thanks, Marcia. Finally, someone is concerned about my happiness! That's a really nice glaze and a beautiful pot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I like happy people. And you deserve to be happy. You are very generous with your knowledge and help those who need it. Marcia And thanks for the compliment on my pot.Sounding like a mutual admiration society! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebekah Krieger Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Some crazing can be caused by fast cooling. It could be cooled too fast in a small electric. Try putting a shelf near the lid over the load, and M=If you have it, put some fiber or insulating bricks on the top of the kiln to hold in the heat. And to make Neil happy, call it a Faux celedon. I posted my Faux Celedon recipe last time this topic came up. http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/2676-cone-56-celedon-glaze/?hl=celedon Marcia These are gorgeous!! I will check out your recipe Thank you for the knowledge regarding Faux glazes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I never knew that a proper celadon was reduction and iron. I have a cone 10 oxidation that was crazing on me but I guess it might be different with a cone 6. I did some glaze calculations and changed some of the Na to Ca and I think added in a bit of Zn too to get rid of half of the high expansion oxides. Also upped the silica a bit I think as adding the Ca removed the Si that came with feldspars. Still crazing very slightly but much better than it used to be. Worth while going into the chemistry and getting some knowledge as it really helps when problems arise. Just my thoughts, probably not much help xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 (never knew celadon was reduction and iron.) just call it faux celedon This is another nail in the subject coffin that many cone 6 electric glazes are faux cone 10 reduction glazes. I have always thought of that temp range having its own unqiue snappy glazes (cone 6 Oxidation) until so many commerical glaze companies switched over to look alike cone 10 copy cats. The demand (market ) must be in look alikes?I wonder why this is? Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 For years, cone 6 was considered the realm of hobby potters, park district programs, and art fair folks, all of which were looked down upon by the university folks and academic types. High fire reduction was considered by most to be the 'best' way to make functional ware, as it was the method learned by most 'educated' potters. I was one of those people. When I was in college, cone 6 was never presented as a viable option for making pots. It wasn't until the reality of making pots in the real world reared its ugly head that I embraced cone 6 electric firing. As cone 6 glaze technology improved, and more and more people switched to cone 6 electric due to the zoning and financial difficulties of firing with gas, they started to copy cone 10 reduction glazes so people could have the look of the 'better' cone 10 glazes. Pure marketing genius. But now that cone 6 has earned some respect, people are realizing that there is just as much, if not more, that you can do with cone 6, and that you don't have to copy cone 10 to make great pots. I have a 'faux celadon' glaze in my studio that is much brighter than any true celadon, and I prefer it. However if I had a good fat waxy fake shino, I could totally go for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Neil, I fired ^6 reduction for 20 years in a University program 1980-2000. This came after the '73 oil embargo and moving to a new building, building new kilns, and for a brief moment I had an assistant shared with sculpture. However, the firing schedule had to fit into an 8 hour time frame as dictated by the dept. head. So I dropped the temperature for ^9 to ^6 and worked out nice looking glazes and a mature clay body. So not all academics are cone snobs. It is more and more popular for many programs as the price of gas goes up and the glazes look the same and mature bodies are equally strong. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 So not all academics are cone snobs. It is more and more popular for many programs as the price of gas goes up and the glazes look the same and mature bodies are equally strong. Marcia I totally agree. That's why I said 'most'. I think in another 20 years cone 10 will be rare compared to now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I use Opulence Celadon -- cone 6, electric. Made by Mid-South. A faux celadon, but one that sells rather nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I think you are right , Neil. Much of the world's pottery that is actually used comes from folk traditions using earthenware. In the more industrialized countries use higher temperature clays. China or maybe Thailand were very early at achieving high temperatures with aerodynamic wood kilns. But as resources on the planet dwindle, we may have to lower temperatures. Just some green things to think about. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I think you are right , Neil. Much of the world's pottery that is actually used comes from folk traditions using earthenware. In the more industrialized countries use higher temperature clays. China or maybe Thailand were very early at achieving high temperatures with aerodynamic wood kilns. But as resources on the planet dwindle, we may have to lower temperatures. Just some green things to think about. Marcia As cone 6 becomes the new cone 10, will cone 3 become the new cone 6? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm Stuart Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Many industrial ceramic manufacturers are currently firing their ware at Cone 2, which is a huge energy savings over Cone 6, let alone Cone 10. Maulik Oza is part of a ceramic studio made up of architects in Ahemedabad, Gujarat India. http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/MaulikOza They have a local ceramic manufacturer fire much of their ware to Cone 2 on rail cars in a 60 foot long tunnel kiln. For simplicity they buy their Cone 2 casting clay body and matching glazes from the manufacturer. As cone 6 becomes the new cone 10, will cone 3 become the new cone 6? I think you are right , Neil. Much of the world's pottery that is actually used comes from folk traditions using earthenware.In the more industrialized countries use higher temperature clays. China or maybe Thailand were very early at achieving high temperatures with aerodynamic wood kilns.But as resources on the planet dwindle, we may have to lower temperatures. Just some green things to think about.Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 One of the potteries in Agost, Spain where I lived for a year on a Fulbright(1985-86) had such a tunnel kiln. It was fascinating to watch. They were firing lower than ^2 but it was still very fast. I think it was longer than 60' and made two 90 degree turns if I remember correctly. Marcia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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