Matt Oz Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 I only do production in spurts, but when I do, I like to keep the process as quick and simple as possible. Here are a few things that I have found, at least for my work, not to be necessary. I did a bunch of tests back in the day, and found that scoring before adding slip wasn't necessary. I do however, have to go over the surfaces to be joined, with a wet sponge or brush a couple times, (enough to break up the surface a little), before applying slip. I have found this method to be faster, easier, and just as strong, maybe stronger.. I also don't use reinforcing coils on joints. When the slip has dried some after joining, and is still a bit sticky, but not watery, I smooth the join with a stiff brush, and that's it. On my porcelain lampshades and stoneware vases, once the slip has dried some, I will take a small tool with a rounded end, and smooth the inside vertical joins a few times, applying enough pressure to compress it a little, to prevent cracks. Are there some traditional things, you have found not to be necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 I score with my thumbnail. I apply slip with a crappy boar's hair brush. The fewer tools I use the better.Having said that, I have three cut-off wires and about five fettling knives, so that I don't have to go looking for them. TJR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Speaking back in the day my fellow potter friend back with us in school did exactly as you-no scoring no slip with all handles and over time we found all the mugs he made and gave away and traded to us lost all the handles. I still have one never used to remind me. Been scoring (I use a serrated rib-one pass-very fast) and a little slip ever since. We make about 125 mugs a week minimum on a slow week. Never had a handle come off from bad joining. I think we all just have our ways-I sell so many mugs I never want to hear about loose handles The thing is what works best for you is all thats needed . If its working stick with it. I like to break a few pots now and then to test the strength of whatever-if you are happy after such a test stick with it. I found compressed extruded handles stronger that pulled handles with just such a test.Been doing that also ever since. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Old addage: Handbuilders score daily. You can get the T-shirt at Clay Times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olisny Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I saw a guy who used plain ol' white vinegar -- no scoring, no slipping -- to join things together. I've tried it a couple of times and it SEEMS to work well, but I don't consider myself to have enough experience handbuilding to swear by it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Campbell Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 A trick I learned in March was to only wet one side so the join was 'wet to dry' rather than two wet surfaces trying to connect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEP Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I lightly scrub the surfaces to be joined with a wet toothbrush. It roughs up the surface a little, and creates just the right amount of slip, all in one step. I learned that trick from a Nick Joerling workshop. Now I feel like trying to break some of my mug handles on purpose, just to see how much effort it takes! Mea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAY Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 It depends on hot wet/how dry the clay is. And what type of clay. I use a comb (hair) to score the joint, and slip one of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Oz Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Speaking back in the day my fellow potter friend back with us in school did exactly as you-no scoring no slip with all handles and over time we found all the mugs he made and gave away and traded to us lost all the handles. I still have one never used to remind me. Been scoring (I use a serrated rib-one pass-very fast) and a little slip ever since. We make about 125 mugs a week minimum on a slow week. Never had a handle come off from bad joining. I think we all just have our ways-I sell so many mugs I never want to hear about loose handles The thing is what works best for you is all thats needed . If its working stick with it. I like to break a few pots now and then to test the strength of whatever-if you are happy after such a test stick with it. I found compressed extruded handles stronger that pulled handles with just such a test.Been doing that also ever since. Mark I actually do use slip, and find the surface does need to be prepped in some way, either by scoring or wiping with a wet sponge as I described, before applying slip. My tests did include breaking finished pots, pots that have been around for decades, even rakuing. I do hope no one takes my word for it though. Definitely do your own tests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Oz Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I lightly scrub the surfaces to be joined with a wet toothbrush. It roughs up the surface a little, and creates just the right amount of slip, all in one step. I learned that trick from a Nick Joerling workshop. Now I feel like trying to break some of my mug handles on purpose, just to see how much effort it takes! Mea I've used your method before and it worked, but one of the reasons I prefer to do the wet sponge thing, and use a separate slip, is that I find this method allows me more working time. I can assemble multiple pieces, and still have enough movement to align the pieces properly, before the joints set up. The slip has to be the right consistency, to work well though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I lightly scrub the surfaces to be joined with a wet toothbrush. It roughs up the surface a little, and creates just the right amount of slip, all in one step. I learned that trick from a Nick Joerling workshop. Now I feel like trying to break some of my mug handles on purpose, just to see how much effort it takes! Mea I've used your method before and it worked, but one of the reasons I prefer to do the wet sponge thing, and use a separate slip, is that I find this method allows me more working time. I can assemble multiple pieces, and still have enough movement to align the pieces properly, before the joints set up. The slip has to be the right consistency, to work well though. Since using the magic water, I use a stiff cone shaped brush that come in the commercial rib packs working the join areas, and then joining. A little smoothing with a small rib finishes the job. Most of the joins will not break apart, the slab breaks first. My magic water has a little clay content after first use, and I like it better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana Ferreira Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Magic water? If you have said 'holy' water, i guess i know where I can find that. Tried to contact Harry Potter, he is off-line ... Damn ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Oz Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Magic water? If you have said 'holy' water, i guess i know where I can find that. Tried to contact Harry Potter, he is off-line ... Damn ;-) "Expecto Patronum" What Is Magic Water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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