Guest Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Is it ok to brush on resist over dried glaze to prevent another glaze combining with the first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sputty Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Ask Hamada. He did it for years. https://www.1stdibs.com/furniture/dining-entertaining/pottery/pottery-dish-hamada-shoji/id-f_985220/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA_Bing+PLA+-+Furniture+-+New&utm_content=$1,000+to+$5,000&utm_term=4581596233535710 Also see Daphne Hatcher's work http://pinemills.com/daphnehatcher.html Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Ask Hamada. He did it for years. Only if you are into séances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 On some glazes that are low in clay, when the glaze completely dries the wax will peel up since the glaze is too powdery to prevent it. I have a couple that do it. When it happens, it peels up the glaze with it and ruin your nice glaze job. To prevent that from happening, after you're all done glazing the pot and before the glaze has totally dried, lightly go over the wax with a torch to melt it into the glaze. Works like a charm. Or put the pot into the kiln and start the firing right away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 On some glazes that are low in clay, when the glaze completely dries the wax will peel up since the glaze is too powdery to prevent it. I have a couple that do it. When it happens, it peels up the glaze with it and ruin your nice glaze job. To prevent that from happening, after you're all done glazing the pot and before the glaze has totally dried, lightly go over the wax with a torch to melt it into the glaze. Works like a charm. Or put the pot into the kiln and start the firing right away. The Mobilizer A oil based wax resist, that takes forever to dry, works super well on dusty glazes. Good to know the torch trick, thanks for sharing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Yup, I couldn't have said it better. No really. Really. But I did learn something. Great place, Potter's Council. Best wishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hamada discovered the liquid wax resist developed by Hank Melon (sp) in the 50s when Yanagi, Hamada and Bernard Leach were visiting the Bray. The process he used as well as Dave Shaner, Leach and many disciples is this Apply the coat for the design. Brush on wax. Let it dry. Wash edges. Apply the second glaze. Wipe off the triplets on the wax resist. Gives a nice clean edge.http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/hAkAAOSwZG9WktQu/s-l300.jpg Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 from NCECA a few years ago http://blog.nceca.net/using-wax-resist-for-layered-glazes-mark-cole-in-the-process-room Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 NCECA offers so much. It is exhausting and a rush of inspiration at the same time.Thanks for posting from the Process room. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 no video, just a black rectangle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 no video, just a black rectangle. You either may have to enable javascript or you have something blocking the video on your end. An app like NoScript installed on your browser wiil do that. Try this link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugaboo Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 This is SO great I have been having just this problem. I decorate the clear glaze the image, wax, then glaze the rest of the piece. Leave to dry and EEEKKKKKK! All my lovely work is ruined because the clear glaze peels up leaving awfulness behind. I've also had it happen with my white glaze. I'm off to order the Mobilizer-A. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerdry Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Don't personally have much experience with this, but our studio manager uses the wax over glaze technique a lot and swears by Aftosa brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preeta Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 oooh Ronsa. welcome to the world of wax resist. endless possibilities. my favourite is carving the wax resist on the glaze and then washing the exposed area out and then applying another glaze. i dont do precise lines so i dont mind the wax peeling (in fact i prefer it). what i like about that is i get two layers of single glaze. not one on top of the other with iron rich glazes the edges of the carved out wax resist usually breaks into a different colour looking lovely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 my favourite is carving the wax resist on the glaze and then washing the exposed area out and then applying another glaze. Ohh, the possibilities! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Don't personally have much experience with this, but our studio manager uses the wax over glaze technique a lot and swears by Aftosa brand. Yeah, I think that would be a petroleum based one too. On their info sheet it says it takes 3 or 4 hours to dry which would make sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preeta Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 my favourite is carving the wax resist on the glaze and then washing the exposed area out and then applying another glaze. Ohh, the possibilities! Thanks oh dont thank me. thank hamada. its his technique that i learnt when Marcia posted about it on a thread here. i havent seen the videos here but i have used wax to do multiple glazings without it being too time consuming. the thing about hamada's technique - for me was - that it made you think differently - and blew my mind to endless possibilities. it is brilliant in its simplicity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 On some glazes that are low in clay, when the glaze completely dries the wax will peel up since the glaze is too powdery to prevent it. I have a couple that do it. When it happens, it peels up the glaze with it and ruin your nice glaze job. To prevent that from happening, after you're all done glazing the pot and before the glaze has totally dried, lightly go over the wax with a torch to melt it into the glaze. Works like a charm. Or put the pot into the kiln and start the firing right away. Is it possible to wax over bisque then use a torch to remove it so one could glaze over the bare bisque? Kind of like the liquid frisket used with airbrushes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preeta Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 On some glazes that are low in clay, when the glaze completely dries the wax will peel up since the glaze is too powdery to prevent it. I have a couple that do it. When it happens, it peels up the glaze with it and ruin your nice glaze job. To prevent that from happening, after you're all done glazing the pot and before the glaze has totally dried, lightly go over the wax with a torch to melt it into the glaze. Works like a charm. Or put the pot into the kiln and start the firing right away. Is it possible to wax over bisque then use a torch to remove it so one could glaze over the bare bisque? Kind of like the liquid frisket used with airbrushes? Why not use latex on glaze that you peel off before firing. not sure how latex would react over too powdery glaze. would it stick well enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Any type of latex (as in paint) or is there a formula designed for ceramics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preeta Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Ronsa i know there is one designed for ceramics. the water colour one wont work. but i dont know if any type of latex would work too. the key with latex is just like water colour you ultimately have to take it off before firing. then there is shellac too. i think any shellac will do. i havent tried it yet. its something i would like to at least once. paint with shellac and then wash a couple of layers of clay away so the design stands out. the water carves out the design. like wax it burns off. http://ceramicartsdaily.org/pottery-making-techniques/ceramic-decorating-techniques/etched-in-clay-how-to-make-beautiful-relief-surfaces-with-shellac-resist/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 On some glazes that are low in clay, when the glaze completely dries the wax will peel up since the glaze is too powdery to prevent it. I have a couple that do it. When it happens, it peels up the glaze with it and ruin your nice glaze job. To prevent that from happening, after you're all done glazing the pot and before the glaze has totally dried, lightly go over the wax with a torch to melt it into the glaze. Works like a charm. Or put the pot into the kiln and start the firing right away. Is it possible to wax over bisque then use a torch to remove it so one could glaze over the bare bisque? Kind of like the liquid frisket used with airbrushes? You cannot burn off the wax and get it back to bare clay. The surrounding glaze will pop off as it heats up, and it just won't burn off cleanly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Thanks, I just need to console myself to wait until my next supply order. Dang thing is I just placed one on Wednesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.