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#21 jrgpots

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 06:39 PM

Dry stack or mortar?  If I use mortar,  I was going to use fire clay and sodium silicate.  But, I don't know the amount of Sodium silicate, fire clay, and water.

 

Help!

 

 

Jed



#22 neilestrick

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 06:55 PM

Fireclay and silica sand is all you need.


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#23 jrgpots

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Posted 06 August 2016 - 12:37 AM

Attached File  kiln build 4.jpg   125.64KB   0 downloadsAttached File  kiln build 5.jpg   127.7KB   0 downloads

 

You can see my funky hard bricks..tongue and groove on the outer wall.

 

 

check list:

1.  2 burner ports 4" x 4" -----------outlet flue 4" x 8"........OK?  [ inner chamber 31" x 30" (foot print) x 24" (stem wall) with cast arch of 12" rise.]

 

2.  The floor has 4" hard brick base with 4 1/2" IFB above it.  That gives me an 8 1/2 inch floor.   I want to lay additional hard brick as a floor liner on top of the IFB.  Can I get away using s split brick layer or would 2 1/2" be better?

 

3.  I'm getting ready to make my sprung arch form.

        - how many inches wider than the kiln chamber width should the spring line be?  My kiln chamber is 31" wide.

        - I though about making the rise of the arch equal to the radius of the kiln chamber to decrease the need for a metal frame.  Is this a good idea?

 

 

Jed



#24 jrgpots

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Posted 06 August 2016 - 03:32 PM

I decided the arch would have a rise of 4" /foot. so the arch has a total rise of 12". 

 

Jed

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#25 Mark C.

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Posted 06 August 2016 - 11:33 PM

I'm at a out of state at art show  in Wa. with really sketchy internet so I'll comment in a few days when I get down Island to better service.

Mark

Ps your floor is plenty thick so yes on the thin layer of hard bricks-it only really needs hard in fire box and under stlit posts. and in flue area.


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#26 bciskepottery

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 05:31 AM

I decided the arch would have a rise of 4" /foot. so the arch has a total rise of 12". 
 
Jed


Are you building downdraft or updraft? Downdraft has the arch as part of the cube; updraft has arch on top of cube.

The size of your burner ports should at least equal the size of your flue opening; flue can be bigger (you can always put a post inside it if the draw is too much) but you will have problems if the flue is smaller.

#27 jrgpots

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 11:37 AM

 


1.  Are you building downdraft or updraft? 

2. The size of your burner ports should at least equal the size of your flue opening; 

 

1.  I'm building a downdraft. The inside measurements are 31 (side to side) x 30(front to back) x 24 (stem wall).  With a 12" arch, the height will be 36 ".  Is that too far away from the ideal cube design.  If so, I can lower the rise.  To have the top of the arch be within the cube, the rise would be 6" or 2"rise/foot.  Is a 2"/ft rise structurally sound?

 

 

2. Each burner port is 4" x 4".  I have 2 burners.  So the flue opening is 4" x 8".  Should I increase the flue size a bit?

 

 

3. Should I put a throwbrick between the skew brick and the casted arch?  I don't know how much taller that will make the arch height.

 

Sorry for so many questions. It is a bit more challenging than I initially anticipated.

 

Jed



#28 Mark C.

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 12:07 AM

 

 


1.  Are you building downdraft or updraft? 

2. The size of your burner ports should at least equal the size of your flue opening; 

 

1.  I'm building a downdraft. The inside measurements are 31 (side to side) x 30(front to back) x 24 (stem wall).  With a 12" arch, the height will be 36 ".  Is that too far away from the ideal cube design.  If so, I can lower the rise.  To have the top of the arch be within the cube, the rise would be 6" or 2"rise/foot.  Is a 2"/ft rise structurally sound?

12 inch rise on a 31inch span is a bit tall-I'm away from my stuff to tell you what I have but that seems a bit high on the rise-since you already built the form I guess you are using it?

The inner wall of the arch should  land about an 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch from inner brick wall accounting for shift. You are making a cast arch??I have zero experience with that. 

 

The cube is theoretical and for me is just a guideline-you are close enough-my car kiln is deeper  hence is not the perfect cube and works fine.

read Olsens kiln (older stuff)as well as Lou Nels book for simple rules. I used Nills newer venturi flue specs on my last kiln (salt kiln) both on the flue and chimney and it works super.

2. Each burner port is 4" x 4".  I have 2 burners.  So the flue opening is 4" x 8".  Should I increase the flue size a bit?

 

I build my flues a tad large and plan on using a split (1/2 brick long ways) to fill in.I like the smaller openings but can enlarge if needed buy taking splits out.

 

 

3. Should I put a throwbrick between the skew brick and the casted arch?  I don't know how much taller that will make the arch height.

I do not know a throwbrick?you mean a regular brick?More details. I always avoided cast arches as they have failed for friends.

 

 

Sorry for so many questions. It is a bit more challenging than I initially anticipated.

 

Welcome to kiln building my friend-you learn from each one.

 

Jed

I'll be home late week and add more but you may be done by then.


Mark Cortright
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#29 jrgpots

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 01:05 AM

Olsen calls the straight brick sandwiched between the skew brick and the arch, a "throw brick."  I had never noticed this before and was curious about it.

 

I built my arch support wider than you suggest.  It is 34" WIDE.  That is a 1 1/2" overlap on each edge.  Olsen gives a minimal arch rise 1 1/2"/ft and a maximum of 3" ft.  So I will rebuild the support to the right width and a 6 " rise.  That keeps the kiln in the cube shape.   My final kiln space will be 15+ cu ft. (not bad for a beginner).

 

I will widen the flue. I like the idea of adding a split if needed.

 

I was rushing to get as much built this past week because this Wednesday I will have disc replacement surgery on my neck.  I will not be able to lift anything greater than 2 lbs for 2 weeks. (I hope it is only 2 weeks).  As you know I live in the desert.  And we almost never get rain.  Yet as soon as I started the kiln it has rained here for 5 days straight.  My friend in the neighborhood told me I had to stop building the kiln before we all floated away.  We have had about 7 " of rain in 1 week.  We normally only get 9"-11" in a year.. The rain gods need to talk to the kiln gods more often. Their cooperation would be very much appreciated.

 

Mark, Bruce, Neil, Marcia.... Thanks for your help... I would have hesitated more before starting project without your back up.

 

Jed



#30 High Bridge Pottery

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 11:21 AM

Looking very nice jrg, I would certainly go with a bigger flue. Think that was/is the remaining issue with my conversion. 


One physical test is worth a thousand expert opinions.

 

gallery_23281_871_611.png gallery_23281_871_239.png gallery_23281_871_701.jpg

 
 


#31 Mark C.

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Posted 09 August 2016 - 12:37 AM

I think the throwbrick makes for a sliding surface between the arch and skew which is good idea.The arch will move over time with expansion contraction- heat- cooling cycles .

Do not rush the build as thinking it through will pay off in the long run.whats a few months in the long run if it works better.

Check out Lous book on kiln and space age materials,


Mark Cortright
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#32 jrgpots

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Posted 09 August 2016 - 02:24 PM

My stem wall can be 21" or 25" tall.  Would it be better to have a 21" wall and a 12 " arch ( I have already made it) resulting in a height of 33"; or use a 25" wall with a NEW arch of 7" rise which would make a total height of 32" ?

 

Any suggestions?

 

For a forced air (power burners) downdraft kiln, what is the chamber size to flue ratio?  Just rechecking everything...

 

 

Jed



#33 neilestrick

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Posted 09 August 2016 - 02:38 PM

Just go with what you've got. It won't make a difference. The whole cube thing is not a requirement. I've built and fired many kilns that are rectangles. It's all good. Don't over think it.


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#34 jrgpots

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 12:03 AM

I placed a 2 inch thick castable arch a few days ago. I have placed 4 inches of kaowool on top of the castable. On top of the wool, I have placed some expanded steel. I will be adding 4 inches of junk castable on top of the expanded steel mesh.

I have run into a conundrum... the door. Since my hard bricks are tongue and groves the outer wall does not form a flat surface, so what type of door will work?


Jed




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