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Everything posted by docweathers

  1. My Shimpo M 400 just died. Repairing it may cost more than it's really worth. What are you folks liking in current electric potters wheels? Just by raw specifications, the Speedball Big Boss Pottery Wheel looks like a deal. Has anyone used one?
  2. Recommended electric potter's wheel

    How big of a lump of clay can you easily center before torque becomes a problem?
  3. Recommended electric potter's wheel

    The only criticism I have heard of the whisper VL is that it lacks enough torque. What's your view on this? How much clay do you throw?
  4. Recommended electric potter's wheel

    I will definitely not go with the speedball. I'm interested that no one has mentioned, good or bad. Shimpo Wheels like the whisper VL. Has anyone used one? The direct drive seems to be a good idea but I really don't know if it makes much difference, except for less things to go wrong. There seems to be some concern about them not having enough torque if you throw really large. I've never thrown more than 30 pounds of clay and see no reason to throw more than that. It seems like Brent, Bailey and Skutt are the best candidates???? They look extremely similar to me. Thanks for all the info
  5. Recommended electric potter's wheel

    The Skutt looks nice. Thanks Is there a good reason to favor direct drive wheels
  6. I am having trouble getting high magnesium glazes like Lalone crawl to stick on vertical surfaces. I have tried spraying over it with spray starch and hairspray. Does not work. I have mixed Elmer's glue with it. This will cause it to stick but it changes the crackly character in ways I don't like. I have tried spraying a layer of Elmer's glue on and then spraying crawl over it. That doesn't work. I emailed Mike Lalone because he has obviously figured out how to make it stick on vertical surfaces. I never got a reply Often I resort to gluing the potato chips that have fallen off back on with a dab of Elmer's glue. This is a very crude solution which is very time-consuming. Does anyone have a better idea?
  7. Yes, as soon as I do a glaze firing.... which will be a while.
  8. I tried most of the suggestions that were offered. By far the most effective was the suspender that Glaze Nerd sent me. It works far better than the bentonite that I had been using. Even with very thick layers of Lalone Crawl, the glaze remained solidly fastened to the bisque and just developed the fine cracks that are necessary for the crawl.
  9. I have long been annoyed by the clay that builds up on my tools , particularly my dry throwing tools. I've tried coating them with motor oil, axle grease, WD-40, silicon, green soap and probably a dozen other things I can't remember. I have recently been experimenting with coconut oil, which is about the slimiest stuff I've ever run into. It really works quite well, particularly on porous surfaces like wooden tools, and bisque molds. You have to give the surfaces several coats to saturate them and then occasionally recoat them. It ain't perfect, but is far better than anything else I've come up with.
  10. Cleaning things is what girls like to do I don't like the build up while I am using them, particularly on dry throwing tools.
  11. Wrapping With Guitar Strings Before Firing

    I've had some nice results sticking very very fine copper wire on top of glaze using a glue gun. You can make all kinds of interesting patterns. I don't find that steel or aluminum make very attractive patterns.. Unless you're in this some kind of funk art effect.
  12. Yes that it the crawl I want. The trick is getting it to stick on vertical surfaces.. which I have done, but with difficulty.
  13. Joe The gel sounds like a fairly simple solution that might work. I will give it a try. It looks like I have a whole bunch of options to test.. Of course, that's the fun part.
  14. This is a crackle / crawl glaze. It's supposed to break up into potato chips to form a very interesting pattern. The issue is not to suppress the crackling but to get the potato chips to stick to the pot. This all works very well on horizontal surfaces but it's really hard to get it to stick on vertical surfaces. As previously mentioned, I found ways to get it to stick, such as adding some Elmer's, but that suppresses the formation of the potato chip. You can see one variation of what it does in the picture ti the left.
  15. Here is the recipe for LaLone Crawl Nepheline Syenite (Theoretical) 70 Magnesium carbonate 25 Ball Clay (Theoretical) 5
  16. ^6, B mix 6 w/ grog, Lalone Crawl is 25% magnesium.
  17. I had always been very diligent every time I used wax resist to quickly scrub out the resist. This kind of worked to make a brush flat last a bit longer, but slowly wax was building up in it. The other day I forgot to wash out the brush at all, a trashed brush, I thought. I found a quick way to make it come perfectly clean again. I took a small glass jar and put a little water and dish soap in the bottom. I stuck the brush in it and put it in the microwave for about 10 seconds, until the water was slightly boiling. I pull it out of the microwave, swished around in the solution. The brush was absolutely clean, like brand-new, no wax. I thought others might find this discovery useful.
  18. Has anyone had any luck adding silicon carbide to glazes. I found this blog by Jon Britt Silicon Carbide reds which basically says put some silicon carbide 600 in your red reduction glazes and something nice will happen when you fire them in oxidation. Well, I tried this in many different glazes and I got the most bubbly, ugly nasty glazes you can imagine. I used Stephen Hill's firing schedule, which has a couple of long holds. Back in February Jon promised to disclose the secret. I have posted a comment on the blog prompting him to follow through... no luck. Has anyone tried this with success? Does anyone know how to light a fire under Jon to get him to follow through? Has anyone found silicon carbide good for anything else in glazing? Thanks Larry
  19. I just bought a used gas kiln. One of the shelves has a glob of melted glaze stuck to it that I would like to remove. I have a 5 inch angle grinder I can probably grind it off with, but before I launch on that brutish strategy, I was hoping that someone could offer me a more elegant and safer solution to the problem. Thanks Larry
  20. The idea of thinking of myself as an artist is very strange since I've had no training in any of the arts that I do. I've always thought of myself more as a logical linear left brain thinker. However, as I've gotten into doing ceramics, welded art and photography, I am a bit startled that some of my stuff actually looks pretty good. Though I make no attempt to sell my work, people actually asked me if I'd like to sell this or that..... strange. I found a lot of the patterns that I've developed in welding transfer nicely to ceramics. Colors and shapes from photography also transfer well to ceramics. Contures in ceramics transfer to contures in welding. Ceramics is by far the most difficult of my three hobbies. All three arts depend on a different aesthetic, so it's a bit of a head shift when I go from one to the other.
  21. Anyone Tried Additive A

    Was just reading Zamek's book "what Every Potter Should Know". He goes on at length about the wonders of additive A. Has anyone use this stuff and with what result?
  22. I've consistently had poor luck getting brushed glazed to look good. I've tried adding CMC & glycerin, brushing a couple light coats 90 degrees from one another. I even added a couple of voodoo dances with loud growling and grunting. Nothing seems to make all that much difference. It possible because I've seen work that has been glazed by brushing and looks perfect. Let me in on the secret
  23. Tell Me How To Brush Glaze

    Thanks for the excellent suggestions. I will give them a try. I really don't like brushing glaze at all, but sometimes the design just does not allow spraying.
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