AIM Kiln 88T 120V Help! Technician struggling hoping for guidance

[R W]

I am currently fixing an old AIM kiln 88t 120V. Here are my questions: 

1. I replaced elements, and sensing rod/cone holder/thermocouple, the old one was chipped, the sensing rod was fried, figured it needed a new one. The wiring harness- is it universal? can I use wires from an old Skutt 1227/1027 model? I just need two wires, I have the crimped connectors. I also am leaning towards leaving it alone as the wires do not show any discoloring or burning. Are all wires used for kilns 12 g and universal? should I not make these assumptions? 

2. It needs to have its power cord replaced- suggestions?  Does anyone have a copy of their manual? I can't get ahold of them on their website. Seems it hasn't been updated in months. 

3. The timer for the kiln sitter does not seem to be ticking, moving, or showing any advancement in time while the elements are hot. I fear the timer is another form of insurance for a kiln sitter as it helps shut the kiln down incase the cone doesn't drop (or at least thats how I understand it). When I forced the timer to hit the off position, the kiln did automatically shut off- indicating to me that it works still, maybe Im prepping the firing wrong? 

4. After replacing parts, the kiln pops when I begin to turn the heat dial from 2- MED. Popping is never good in an electrical system- so I fear I have some work to do with the elements- maybe the tail of the element is touching something conductive in the kiln? It pops once then continues firing, no spark or visible change. I am concerned this is an indicator of issues this kiln may have long term? 

Thank you for reading thus far, I am learning as I am going, and am servicing an area that has very limited kiln techs and a whole host of kilns that need help.  I am not an electrician, but now i'm leaning towards taking some type of class. I have been a studio technician now for 5 years and am a little stumped/worried. Happy to provide images, and or email for ease of communication. 

[R W]

update!

Found a kiln sitter manual. It is answering some of my questions- i kept all the switches off when setting the sensor rod on the cone itself, then I turned the timer dial and switched the heat dial to Low for 30 minutes, then 1 for an hour, then 2 for an hour. switched to medium and had to leave for work and shut the kiln down manually. 

thanks for reading! 

[neilestrick]

You can use any wire that is the correct type (high temp insulated) and the correct size for the amperage going through it. I would use the existing wiring if it looks good.

Ideally a kiln power cord should be rated for 105C. The size of the wires in the cord will depend on the amperage draw of the kiln.

The timer moves very slowly. You won't be able to see it move unless you wait an hour. It should make a little noise while running, kind of a very quiet grinding sound if you get up close to it. The Sitter will still shut off via the cone, but the timer is a backup in case the cone system sticks. The timer should be set to about 1/2 hour longer than you expect the firing to take.

If an element pigtail was touching something you'd know it. It would likely flip the breaker and make a much bigger display than a pop. If the pop is in the switch that's not unheard of, but maybe it's time to replace the switch.

What size breaker is the kiln on?

Post a pic of the serial plate on the kiln.

[R W]

Amazing, 

 

I believe its on a 20 breaker, most of the kiln room is hooked up to 20's. The person i'm helping will be firing on a normal home electrical circuit. Im trying to convince them otherwise. 

Attached is the serial plate! I set the timer to 12.5 hours, and began testing to ensure elements had no blanks and that everything heated up. Started at 10:30am and by 12:00pm there was no change in the timer, but when pushed to the off position it shut the kiln down. 

 

thank you so much Neil! 

 

[neilestrick]

By code, that kiln must be fired on a 20 amp circuit. Standard breakers are only allowed to run at 80% capacity. I'm also not a fan of maxing out the wire in case you pull extra amperage due to fluctuations in voltage.

[R W]

https://www.theceramicshop.com/product/6635/power-cord-15-amp-120v-5-15p/

 

Would this L&L replacement work? 

Thanks

[Denice]

You need to tell your customer a little story about a new potter that use to be on this forum.    His neighbor who claimed to be a electrician wired a  kiln into old knob and tube wiring for him.  The first time he fired it his  wiring caught on fire inside the walls.  He had major fire damage had to tear out all of his walls and replace the wiring.  I would change it up a little and make the home owner insisting on using the wrong wire.    The new potter is no longer a potter,  the fire burned out his urge to work with clay.   Denice

[neilestrick]

20 hours ago, R W said:

https://www.theceramicshop.com/product/6635/power-cord-15-amp-120v-5-15p/

 

Would this L&L replacement work? 

Thanks

I would put a 20 amp cord on it.

[Bill Kielb]

Just to add - I believe definitely wise to use a 20 amp rated cord and I would further suggest it be a 5-20p (plug) and a 5-20 R (receptacle). This kiln ought not share a circuit with anything else.  Doing so exceeds the code requirement for the branch and therefore needs to be dedicated for just the kiln.. This also helps folks as a reminder, not to just plug it in or at least it gives the electrician a solid heads up.