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Hello, I just came upon a medium size kiln. It was free, came with no manual or use instructions. I am a first time kiln user so I don't want to do anything without more information on this specific kiln. It is a very old Aim Ceramic Kiln with a sitter, Model K-10. Is there anyone out there who can give me some advice on this particular kiln? Thank you

Hi all! I found a large old AIM Kiln at a thrift store for $50 , and it looks in good condition (pics attached). Based upon the badge specs of 230v 20amps, I had an electrician install a 240v outlet on a 30amp circuit. I fired it up and everything worked for a few minutes until it shut down, and wouldn't restart. After checking continuity through all the wiring, I decided to check voltage on the outlet. Sure enough it was out of whack. I called the electrician back and he confirmed that the circuit was fried. After connecting the kiln directly to the power drop at the circuit breaker we discovered that it was pulling 45-50 amps. The electrician pointed out tiny print on the label for the Kilnsitter indicating 45 amps! So, we were both confused. Why does the badge on the control box indicate 20 amps if the Kilnsitter, which is the distribution point for electricity to all three rings, needs 45? Even if it's simply extremely deceptive labeling (which is actually indicating that EACH RING requires 20 amps) wouldn't the sitter need at least 60 amps to function? Also, almost every kiln I've seen made by almost every manufacturer has an LT Kilnsitter indicating 45 or more amps -- regardless of the amp specs for each individual model (some as low as 15 amps). Is it true that any kiln with a sitter will require wiring up a 50 amp circuit (at a cost of around $800)? And finally, why would a Kilnsitter, which is simply a heat sensitive shut-off switch, dictate amps drawn? Can anyone shed some light on this seemingly ubiquitous contradiction in specs? Thanks! Matt

Took my kiln out of 17 year storage. Tried to fire to cone 04. Set timer to 10 hours and placed cone in kiln sitter and knob to " ceramics". It cut off at 10 hours but plate didn't drop on cone. I did have to replace the knob, as it was missing, yet it isn't quite the same as before and clicks for high fire, ceramics and overglaze are not where the wording is. I assumed the second click would be the " ceramics". What is your suggestions or knowledge on how to fix this issue with firing and/or should I buy the complete switch? Or would you think the switch is an issue? All coils are working. Or buy a news kiln? Could I turn it back on for more hours and see if it will reach the cone temp or start over? Thank you in advance. I I have a Duncan Teacher Plus