Elmoclayman Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 So I was blessed with brand new kilns for my high school studio. I have an Olympic DD17 with blowers. I have only fired an updraft kiln for the past 20 years. What is the difference in firing? This kiln has 2 large burners in the back coming in from either side of the vent/ "chimney". I'm trying to do a reduction glaze firing. I have a pyrometer so I can monitor the temp, but it seems like the temp is climbing pretty slow. About 200 degrees F per hour. I add more gas and more air from the blower but can't get it to climb any faster. I tried closing the flue which helped. Honestly I need someone to walk me through a Cone 10 Reduction glaze firing from start to finish. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 20 minutes ago, Elmoclayman said: Honestly I need someone to walk me through a Cone 10 Reduction glaze firing from start to finish. Thanks in advance! Yes, updraft, downdraft powered and atmospheric it’s a dance with gas pressure and damper. Damper adjustments are often tiny. I have seen 1/16 inch have the effect of decent reduction or smothered not able to gain temperature. Firing with someone who is good at it would help a whole bunch. It’s always been better when I was personally there as opposed to digitally there on teams or FaceTime etc… Truly best if someone can show you IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 I think this kiln has a Manual from manufacture . Hopefully you have digital pyrometer. I sent you a PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 Set the gas for the rate of climb you want, set the air for the degree of reduction, and set the damper so you have back pressure out both spy holes. One will have a lot of pressure, the other just a touch. Each time you adjust one of these the other two may need adjustment as well. There is such a thing as too much gas and air, and generally the damper will only need very small adjustments. Keep notes as you go. Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elmoclayman Posted May 16 Author Report Share Posted May 16 There should be a bit of yellow flame coming out of the flue right?? Same as with an updraft kiln? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 2 hours ago, Elmoclayman said: There should be a bit of yellow flame coming out of the flue right?? Same as with an updraft kiln? Depends on how hot and if you're in reduction or oxidation, but yes, you'll get flame out the flue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elmoclayman Posted May 21 Author Report Share Posted May 21 (edited) Okay, so the first firing went pretty well. The reduction worked well and it got to the correct temp...eventually. I think I started at a lower temp in the morning than I used to with my old updraft kiln. Therefore, it would take longer to get to Cone 10 by the end of the day. So, I'll have to see how the next firing goes. Do I need to do a "Strike" at the end? During a reduction firing in my updraft kiln, once the kiln got to 2350F, I would close the flue almost completely for about 20 min. and this helped the reds and rutile glazes really mature and come out better. I didn't do that with the downdraft kiln and the reds and rutiles came out really well. Is this typical of a downdraft kiln? Thanks for all the advice and help Edited May 21 by Elmoclayman Bill Kielb and Rae Reich 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted May 21 Report Share Posted May 21 6 hours ago, Elmoclayman said: Do I need to do a "Strike" at the end? Sounds like you figured out gas / damper and reduction indicators for you so your heating rates are acceptable. I have never had to strike or go into heavy reduction at the end but if you get the result you are looking for, then it is a technique successful for you. There are many schedules and techniques, I have never had to strike nor clean up the kiln at the end. My goal is always to get the uniform reduction I am seeking without a smokey mess and waste of fuel. Some test tile pics and midfire / later fire flames below. I use an O2 probe and built monitoring equipment, so a bit unfair, but a way to learn / teach basic reduction. What works best for you and your glazes you will figure out - have fun firing! Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted May 22 Report Share Posted May 22 Congrats! Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elmoclayman Posted May 22 Author Report Share Posted May 22 16 hours ago, Bill Kielb said: What works best for you and your glazes you will figure out - have fun firing! Thanks for the help! Now I get to start doing tests and figuring the glazes out once again. But if the first firing is any indication, a downdraft kiln is actually easier than my old updraft. Time will tell. Thanks again! Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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