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Help using kiln


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Hi Sierra, welcome to the Forum!

Is there an information plate on the kiln - model and serial numbers, brand/maker, voltage and amperage requirements?
If so, please post a close up image of the info plate.
While you're at it, a pic of the inside also?

That hole in the lid seems, err, too big!
Perhaps it had been fired with a baffle over most of that hole?

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The two grooves on the sides of the hole may confirm the fact that it is a baffle as it would allow the cover to he removed with tongs or some other device. The grooves will also allow a small amount of air flow.

 

best,

Pres

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19 hours ago, Hulk said:

Hi Sierra, welcome to the Forum!

Is there an information plate on the kiln - model and serial numbers, brand/maker, voltage and amperage requirements?
If so, please post a close up image of the info plate.
While you're at it, a pic of the inside also?

That hole in the lid seems, err, too big!
Perhaps it had been fired with a baffle over most of that hole?

This is the inside of the kiln and the plate 

IMG_9684.jpeg

IMG_9662.jpeg

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Interesting design, elements set into the fiber. I've seen that on very small kilns, like the little Paragon table top jewelry kilns, but never in something this large. Due to its construction and the fact that these are no longer made, when the elements are dead the kiln will have to be tossed. There's no replacing those elements. It would be good to figure out if all the elements are working before you put any money into wiring it up. Do you have a multi meter? If not, you can get one at the hardware store for like $20, and with that you can measure the resistance of the elements. Just make sure it's digital and can measure ohms (the little horseshoe symbol). With that number we can math out if the elements are worn or if any of them are broken.

At 9600 watts it will pull 40 amps, so by code it would need a 50 amp breaker using at least 6 gauge wire for the circuit.

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Ah, NOVA kiln

Here's a manual for what might be similar kilns novaman1.pdf (aakilns.com.au) ...which have lid vents!
Hence, the lid vent may be orginal.
The same company has a manual for NOVA controller novaman2.pdf (aakilns.com.au)

From this archived thread My weird kiln won't reach temp - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community :
*begin quote*
Duncan bought rights to the Nova kiln during the 1970s. All the Duncan kiln manuals can be downloaded from the Paragon website. (We list the Duncan manuals because we contracted with Duncan to sell their kiln parts after they discontinued kiln production in 1997.) Here is the link to the manual for the Duncan EA-092 The Crafter-Plus and the EA-122 The Artist-Plus ceramic fiber kilns. I believe these models were originally Nova kilns

http://www.paragonweb.com/ManualInfo.cfm?CID=171

Sincerely,
Arnold Howard

Paragon Industries, L.P.
*end quote*

I'm not finding a direct match.
The EA092 does look similar ...but it isn't 240v and is much smaller.
LX855_Duncan_EA-092_EA-122_Manual.pdf (nxedge.io)

Try contacting Paragon?

 

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The good news those appear to be silicon carbide elements which tend to have decent life ……. But the somewhat bad news is they have very different resistance readings as they heat up. Hopefully I am wrong and it’s just the picture and they are standard coiled kiln elements. If silicon carbide: my best thought, It may be necessary to run this kiln up to temperature and measure the hot resistance by actually measuring the amperage the kiln is drawing at top temperature. And if it makes top temperature then you will already know it is still serviceable or what temperature it can make. Place cones in this firing for sure and a pyrometer would be very useful.

If you are or have someone technically familiar with kilns and electric, it may be easiest to safely temporarily wire this kiln and fully supervise the firing. At peak temperature the amperage would be measured and wattage can be compared with the nameplate as well as hot resistance of the elements will be able to be derived from the amperage measured.

Sorry - I am at a loss for an easier method here, unfortunately silicon carbide resistance can change significantly when heated as well as aging. Maybe someone here has an easier way, this is the only definitive way I am aware of. Hopefully I am wrong and they are really traditional elements which means measure the resistance cold.

The Nova 1 manual seems to match your kiln shape and indicates 1/2 of the element with the fiber is a part number, so my thought would be when worn the entire fiber and element group would be replaced and installed 1/2 section at a time.

Edited by Bill Kielb
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/9/2024 at 8:24 PM, Hulk said:

Hi Sierra, welcome to the Forum!

Is there an information plate on the kiln - model and serial numbers, brand/maker, voltage and amperage requirements?
If so, please post a close up image of the info plate.
While you're at it, a pic of the inside also?

That hole in the lid seems, err, too big!
Perhaps it had been fired with a baffle over most of that hole?

Do you think I can just put a fire brick over the hole when I fire? 

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Good question.
That hole in the lid might be original?
Kiln has to "breathe" enough to move water vapor (early in the firing) and the various fumes (later in the firing).

If the kiln can reach temperature with the vent unobstructed, perhaps just let it be?

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