ChromaticCeramics Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 Hi All! Trying to achieve black, near opaque, brush strokes... such as below image. I’ve been experimenting with iron oxide washes and iron slip on greenware (Phoenix clay), then bisque fired, then cone 10 gas fired w/ clear glaze, but they turn out as washed out brownish, mottled, or rusty metallic. (black underglaze would not work as it needs several coats to be opaque... im looking to leave more energetic brush strokes) What kind of wash/slip should be used to achieve a darker black? Should it be applied on greenware or bisque? If bisque… under or over glaze? Working in a community studio so limited to cone 10 gas fire, white or clear glaze, and simple oxide washes and slips. I don't mind buying another product if needed Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 Hi and welcome to the forum. Have you tried black underglaze? It can go on greenware or bisque. Roberta12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChromaticCeramics Posted February 3 Author Report Share Posted February 3 3 minutes ago, Min said: Hi and welcome to the forum. Have you tried black underglaze? It can go on greenware or bisque. Hi Min, thank you... I'd like to lay down quick energetic brush strokes that are fairly opaque... I've tried speedball and velvet underglazes which seem to need 3 coats to be opaque so you can't really get that quick spontaneous brush stroke look I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 3 hours ago, ChromaticCeramics said: Hi Min, thank you... I'd like to lay down quick energetic brush strokes that are fairly opaque... I've tried speedball and velvet underglazes which seem to need 3 coats to be opaque so you can't really get that quick spontaneous brush stroke look I believe. Oh gosh, sorry, don't know how I missed that. Okay, so plan B would be to make up a slip and use some oxides to make a black. Slip needs to go on greenware, as soft leatherhard as possible to avoid fit issues. Also test the covering glaze over it before committing a "real" pot. There are recipes for black slips that contain various amount of colouring oxides, most include iron + manganese + cobalt and sometimes chrome also. Something along the lines of this recipe from Vince Pitelka. ChromaticCeramics, Callie Beller Diesel and Rae Reich 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChromaticCeramics Posted February 3 Author Report Share Posted February 3 Got it... thank you so much! I'll try that... appreciate the link! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly in AK Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 My reflex response was “iron, cobalt, and manganese together.” @Min covered it, so I just want to second that. The commentary on the Vince Pitelka recipe on Glazy is as valuable as the recipe itself. ChromaticCeramics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 (edited) One idea that comes to mind using underglaze, you can free form your initial design on greenware and bisque fire. The piece will contract a bit and your strokes will become more dense on their own. From there it is often enough, but if not then adding a second coat to cover often gets folks there. Stay between the lines to keep the original form true or judiciously accent and over paint the design to preserve brush strokes and depth. The second coat is a precision thing I know and not for everyone. The point though, when applied to greenware, just bisque firing it may get you the density you desire ……. or at least close, or maybe something to experiment with. I think the pot in the picture could be recreated on greenware and likely not need touch up and a second bisque. Edited February 4 by Bill Kielb ChromaticCeramics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChromaticCeramics Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 12 hours ago, Kelly in AK said: My reflex response was “iron, cobalt, and manganese together.” @Min covered it, so I just want to second that. The commentary on the Vince Pitelka recipe on Glazy is as valuable as the recipe itself. Thank you... yes I read and re-read the commentary several times and took notes... very very valuable info! Really appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChromaticCeramics Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 11 hours ago, Bill Kielb said: One idea that comes to mind using underglaze, you can free form your initial design on greenware and bisque fire. The piece will contract a bit and your strokes will become more dense on their own. From there it is often enough, but if not then adding a second coat to cover often gets folks there. Stay between the lines to keep the original form true or judiciously accent and over paint the design to preserve brush strokes and depth. The second coat is a precision thing I know and not for everyone. The point though, when applied to greenware, just bisque firing it may get you the density you desire ……. or at least close, or maybe something to experiment with. I think the pot in the picture could be recreated on greenware and likely not need touch up and a second bisque. Thank you... will experiment with this as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 Test the black mentioned above by Min. The cobalt may bleed in certain conditions and some glaze movement, at C 6 a great black. ChromaticCeramics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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