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Palladium Experiences (not the club)


Ben xyz

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Have had plus and minus experiences using Palladium (as I noted on another's post). One disastrous result in the past when using it in combination with a gloss glaze, resulting in major running onto kiln shelf.
 

I'm now using it on Laguna B3 Brown, which fires almost black. Had put down a couple coats of underglaze on greenware first, to act as a primer block before applying the Palladium on the bisque. It will be on a localized area (a circular shape on a vertical wall), with no other glazes.  I'll even wax outside the circle. The question I have is whether I can get away with using only 2  coats, instead of the recommended 3? Still want the highly reflective effect. Experience? Trying to avoid any dripping outside the circle when fired.

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What cone are you firing to. When I used Palladium successfully it needed to be applied heavily and above cone 5 had random pinholes / blisters. Amaco called it a float glaze which needed enough thickness for things to float to the top as they said at the time. My experience, it needs the thickness, so gravity is not your friend. Maybe test tiles at cone 5.  I can say it seems to tarnish over time as well. The family bragging rights Super Bowl trophy looked way better ten years ago.

047AEDE6-3984-46FD-A9A6-AE1C68EEEC56.jpeg

Edited by Bill Kielb
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6 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:

What cone are you firing to. When I used Palladium successfully it needed to be applied heavily and above cone 5 had random pinholes / blisters. Amaco called it a float glaze which needed enough thickness for things to float to the top as they said at the time. My experience, it needs the thickness, so gravity is not your friend. Maybe test tiles at cone 5.  I can say it seems to tarnish over time as well. The family bragging rights Super Bowl trophy looked way better ten years ago.

047AEDE6-3984-46FD-A9A6-AE1C68EEEC56.jpeg

Still looks pretty good there, Bill! Have never thought about the possible tarnishing aspect of Palladium over time. Wonder if there's a way to restore the original brilliance? A question for the chemists out there.

I'll likely stick with the recommended three coats then and hope for the best (cone 5). It will be contained within a circular textured stamped medallion-shaped situation (about 3.5" diam), similar scenario of the one shown below, but with Palladium on Laguna B3 brown. Perhaps spraying it on would avoid buildup within the texture and avoid dripping? Just a thought. Thanks for your response.

32E87B9F-91B5-4A22-AA6A-C25B5A6EC065.jpeg.5e548a305cc97a9aab73d5ed3f736b59.jpeg

 

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@Ben xyz, to keep a glaze from running when you don't want to change the formula either apply it thinner or make a physical barrier such as a shallow lip or rim or edge around the edge or foot of a pot. Is firing it flat and getting gravity to help an option?

Reason it changes over the years  is it's heavy in manganese which will oxidize over time. 

@Bill Kielb, lovely work, is that your wife's lettering?

 

Edited by Min
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@Ben xyzAs Min says, troublesome runny glazes are difficult on vertical surfaces, however there are ways to slow the movement, and even stop the glaze from running off completely. 

  • horizontal rings, lines to the surface that are incised at an angle to create a slight step in the form will slow glaze run several may be worked into a decoration where puddling if even slight will give nice break effects.
  • A ledged foot also will allow you to keep from cleaning the kiln shelves or losing post due to over run.
  • A waster below the piece to catch glaze overflow from running onto the shelves. 

I haven't worked with Paladium, but have used several glazes that would run in the HS. For students my best policy was to rule that the runny glazes (Sea Green Pearl) in particular could only be applied to the top 2/3 of a pot.

 

 

best,

Pres

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Appreciate the responses - thanks. Cast fate to the wind and applied the three coats, but w/o contact to other glazes. Will learn from it, no matter what the result will be. Good tips from Pres on possible applications. Also interesting to know it's the manganese which oxidizes over time - thanks Min. Curious if there's a way to slow or stop that process. Perhaps a clear spray to seal it... or is it something that degrades internally... or to light? Time to Google.  

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