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Clay Boss wheel head won’t stop turning when foot pedal is down


Amanda Green

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I just picked up a used clay boss creative industries wheel. It’s an old one…pre Speedball. When I turn it on and have the foot pedal totally down, the wheel doesn’t stop. 

I read about foot pedals and potentiometers then took apart the foot. It was dusty but all the connections look good. The wheel speed isn’t managed with any dials inside the foot pedal, as far as I can tell.  There are 3 wires for min/max speed and acceleration. 

After reading the manual (speedball’s) it looks like there’s supposed to be a way to adjust the foot pedal speed in the wheel’s control box. 

The diagram shows the dials for max/min speed but playing with those still doesn’t keep the wheel head from spinning when foot pedal is all the way down. (See images).

Do you think there’s something else to try with the control panel? Could this be a motor problem? Or…should I chat with speedball about getting a new control box (this is the $$$ option, but the wheel doesn’t do me much good if it doesn’t work!)  


If you made it this far, thanks for reading and I’d really appreciate any advice you can give  or even another resource to try. 

Thanks!!! 
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Hi Amanda!

You might try testing the potentiometer* (the item in the foot pedal with the wires connected to it).
It is the likely culprit, easy to test.
If the potentiometer is faulty, looks like several vendors carry replacements.

The input from the foot pedal should govern the motor from off to full speed.

   Where off position is heel end all the way down.
   Full speed position is toe end all the way down.

***

The adjustments on the board (trim pots) allow you adjust behavior.
The labels appear to be standard.
My wheel has trim pots that are labelled similarly; here are some notes for the control board in my wheel (from vendor documentation**):

All adjustments increase with CW rotation, and decrease with CCW rotation.
Use a non-metallic screwdriver for calibration. Each trim pot is identified on the printed circuit board.

MIN
setting determines the minimum motor speed when the speed adjust potentiometer or input voltage signal is set for minimum speed. It is factory set for zero speed.

MAX
setting determines the maximum motor speed when the speed adjust potentiometer or input voltage signal is set for maximum speed.

ACCEL
setting determines the time the motor takes to ramp to a lower or higher speed.

IR Comp
The IR COMP setting determines the degree to which motor speed is held constant as the motor load changes.

CL 
setting determines the maximum torque for accelerating and driving the motor.

 

I'd suggest leaving the trim pots adjusted as found!


*How to Test a Potentiometer: 6 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow

**The control board in my wheel (Skutt) is supplied by Minarik

Edited by Hulk
here missing
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If the hi/low settings don't help, then you need to make an adjustment in the pedal in the way that the movement of the pedal corresponds to the position of the potentiometer. Basically the position of the pedal and the gear on the potentiometer are out of sync. Can you post some pictures of the pedal guts from a side angle? Does that bar running down the middle attach to the gear at the end and the silver rod in the middle? 

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@Hulk. Thank you! With your help and some more directed tinkering, I’m pretty sure the door pedal’s potentiometer is the issue. Looks like I can get that part for $22 or a new foot pedal for $99. 
 

@neilestrick, thanks for the suggestion.  if I’m following you, I had the same idea and tried to adjust down at the slowest-turn-side of the rod (sticking out to the left) but there’s a hard stop for the rod and the wheel head is still turning.  I’ve attached two pics in case I missed something. EA57DDA5-17C5-44E2-95B3-FA4F242E186A.jpeg.cca0edc8d4a15abe5dc1330f822749e7.jpeg0F017453-B03B-4013-B1B2-B5D318508157.jpeg.beebb35501a313c19bf3b1904065cb24.jpeg

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Mine had the same issue recently, I took the mechanical bits of the foot pedal apart and cleaned everything, including using "mass airflow sensor" cleaner from auto parts store in the potentiometer and moving it through the whole range of motion. Don't forget to put a little grease back where metal parts rub, like that gear.

Pots get dirty and create contact where they are not supposed to, and the wheel keeps on turning. Lots of people replace them but I play guitar and soldering new ones is a PITA so I always clean them first, works 80% of the time.

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8 hours ago, Amanda Green said:

@neilestrick, thanks for the suggestion.  if I’m following you, I had the same idea and tried to adjust down at the slowest-turn-side of the rod (sticking out to the left) but there’s a hard stop for the rod and the wheel head is still turning.  I’ve attached two pics in case I missed something. 

Remove the black rod and see if that gear will turn any further and stop the wheel. If not, then clean it up and try again. If it still won't stop, and the controller adjustments don't stop it, then you need a new potentiometer. If it does stop, then you need to adjust the position of the black rod on the gear, probably by adjusting the other end.

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