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Opulence Bamboo Glaze Pinholes


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I made a batch of Opulence Bamboo cone 6 glaze from their dry mix. I have tried it on numerous clays, and it always has pinholes, enough that the pieces are ruined. It has been thoroughly sieved several times. I have tried firing at cones 5, 6, & 7, with and without holds. I have tried refiring, which only makes more pinholes. I have tried bisquing at 08 and 04. Nothing has helped. I will probably end up throwing the glaze away but figured I would ask for suggestions first.

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If this is the Mid-South Ceramic Supply Company's 'Opulence Bamboo 815' the description text has a few bits of information that can help you achieve the same results as the manufacturer.

 

Here is the text-

"Opulence Envirocolors have a satiny matte surface with 10 earthy colors available. They are compatible with Opulence Gloss and Reduction-Look glazes. The Envirocolors do not flow when used alone, but give a color variation with textured surfaces. Designed for Cone 6 electric firing, we have had success with tests in C/10 gas reduction and C/10 wood firing. They are completely barium and lead-free and are microwave and dinnerware safe."

 

The manufacturer stated the glaze was 'designed' for cone 6 electric.

 

If you can fire to cone 10 gas reduction or cone 10 wood firing you may achieve the same success. Don't throw it out, go higher, get to Cone 10 in the electric kiln if that is your only firing option; see what you get and post your results.

 

Find out the clay body the manufacturer used in their tests and try to obtain a small sample amount. Duplicating the manufacturer's results should ensure you the same success.

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If this is the Mid-South Ceramic Supply Company's 'Opulence Bamboo 815' the description text has a few bits of information that can help you achieve the same results as the manufacturer.

 

Here is the text-

"Opulence Envirocolors have a satiny matte surface with 10 earthy colors available. They are compatible with Opulence Gloss and Reduction-Look glazes. The Envirocolors do not flow when used alone, but give a color variation with textured surfaces. Designed for Cone 6 electric firing, we have had success with tests in C/10 gas reduction and C/10 wood firing. They are completely barium and lead-free and are microwave and dinnerware safe."

 

The manufacturer stated the glaze was 'designed' for cone 6 electric.

 

If you can fire to cone 10 gas reduction or cone 10 wood firing you may achieve the same success. Don't throw it out, go higher, get to Cone 10 in the electric kiln if that is your only firing option; see what you get and post your results.

 

Find out the clay body the manufacturer used in their tests and try to obtain a small sample amount. Duplicating the manufacturer's results should ensure you the same success.

 

 

I like this glaze but not enough to fire to cone 10. I will try layering it with other glazes and see what it does.

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If the glaze is a satin matte that doesn't flow at cone 6, and also works well at cone 10 in a wood kiln, then it is under-fired at cone 6. Under-firing is the least desirable method of obtaining a matte surface because it does not develop good glass formation and results in poor durability. Crystal growth is the best way to develop a matte surface since the glaze melts more and the glass is fully developed. SO, my guess as to why it is pinholing is because it is not melting well enough to seal over completely. It may take going all the way to 10 to solve the problem. That would require different clay bodies, wouldn't be compatible with your other glazes, would and be way more trouble than it's worth.

 

Since you have the dry mix, make some 100 gram test batches and try adding Gillespie Borate or Frit 3134 in 2% increments and see if that helps. It may gloss up a little bit, but hopefully is will flow a little more and seal over.

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If the glaze is a satin matte that doesn't flow at cone 6, and also works well at cone 10 in a wood kiln, then it is under-fired at cone 6. Under-firing is the least desirable method of obtaining a matte surface because it does not develop good glass formation and results in poor durability. Crystal growth is the best way to develop a matte surface since the glaze melts more and the glass is fully developed. SO, my guess as to why it is pinholing is because it is not melting well enough to seal over completely. It may take going all the way to 10 to solve the problem. That would require different clay bodies, wouldn't be compatible with your other glazes, would and be way more trouble than it's worth.

 

Since you have the dry mix, make some 100 gram test batches and try adding Gillespie Borate or Frit 3134 in 2% increments and see if that helps. It may gloss up a little bit, but hopefully is will flow a little more and seal over.

 

Thanks. That explains a lot.

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I've used opulence glazes from the same family, and they look like they may be using strontium carbonate to produce mattes, which can have pinhole problems, One thing that's recommended is to try a thinner glaze coat.

 

Maybe you just got a bad batch of glaze.

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I really like several opulence glazes..... French Bleu is cool, but you need to make sure its on thick enough -- I have to double dip.

 

Smokey Mist is really nice... its my favorite. I like Blue Monday, Celedon, galaxy, and denim blue too. I tried Meadow and Pebble Beach, and they are nice enough, they are just pale in color and I'm currently using a dark clay.

 

But haven't tried Bamboo!

 

 

 

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