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Rustic metal glaze finish


Gin

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I am looking to create a rusty metal glaze look similar to this… is it an ash glaze in reduction ? any recipes to test and play around with to set me in the right direction would be appreciated . I want to attempt to create a similar look in oxidization. Is the clay used heavy in iron?

thank you

C2220CF5-F5ED-49CF-A679-550CD9CEF103.jpeg

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There’s no glaze edge on the foot, so that’s bare clay. Without knowing who made it or what they were using, I can’t get more specific than saying it’s one of the black bodies that’s out there. There’s lots of them that work at cone 5-6. I haven’t used too many of the Canadian brands, only the Coffee from Plainsman. That one’s a little warmer than this image, but Pottery Supply House makes one as well. I have a piece that someone else made with the PSH 540i, and it has a slightly cooler tone.

I am that kid that sees all the different colours in the white (and black) paint chips though. 

 

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1 hour ago, Gin said:

I am looking to create a rusty metal glaze look similar to this… is it an ash glaze in reduction ? any recipes to test and play around with to set me in the right direction would be appreciated . I want to attempt to create a similar look in oxidization. Is the clay used heavy in iron?


I have made surfaces that resemble the images posted so far by mixing my ordinary clay body with iron oxide and applying the mixture onto the finished greenware.  arrived at the "correct" ratios of clay body, iron oxide, and water by trial and "error".  also have used a mix of iron oxide, some clay body, and baking soda as a "glaze slurry" on bisque ware.  Again the amount of ingredients in the mixtures are "trial and error". Have also used a little bit low-fire red clay bodies (cone 04) mixed with a lot of water applied on bisque ware.  

Also added "sand" (from sand box or swept off of the street); the sand added a rougher surface than the plain clay body. 

Thickness of the application is an important variable, so try both a thin and thick to see what works best.  

This approach worked fine at cone 3 oxidation, cone 5 oxy and reduction, and also on cone 10 reduction, wood firing, and Raku; also on porcelain and stoneware.  

I started by using a spoon of this and that until I got a mixture that produced a fired result that I liked.  

Start with some of your regular clay body, add some iron oxide and water to a thin milky slurry, and put it on you pot and see what happens.  

LT
 

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