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glaze equivalent of a light wax


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I'm not entirely sure how to explain what I'm after so please bear with me! I have some pots made of marbled clays that look loads better when they're damp, and would look perfect with a light waxing, like you do with some raku pots, but I want  to use these ones for food.  I've experimented with clear glazes but I don't like the glassiness of them when spread thickly, and I've read that they get streaky when too thin. Does anyone have any suggestions?

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Thin smooth coats promote the most clarity. I spray them for this reason. Some folks prefer  a matte finish as opposed to gloss  but thin even coats still apply. General rule for all clear apps is thin and even yet sufficient to cover yields the clearest result. Here is a matte used to produce a certain look https://glazy.org/recipes/19734

 

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Yes, commercial mattes can generally be sprayed. There are many economical spray guns out and about for spraying glaze, I tend to use regular touch up spray guns for automotive paint but my prior experience with custom auto paint and airbrush work is what I know from a previous life. Many potters have much  simpler setups and thin their glazes if need be. With a little practice you can use most any gun to spray fairly evenly. A little practice  is important though along with a proper mask and somewhere to spray. Preferably a spray booth. Most folks learn to lay down a proper even wet coat then just add 2 or three coats as they flash and dry. It takes some practice and at first most spray too thin or unevenly.  Easy to learn though.

For glaze I always purchased an economical spray gun such as this https://tcpglobal.com/collections/spray-guns-gravity-feed/products/tcp-g6600-15_2. Because these folks are fairly inexpensive, but I have seen folks use stuff from harbor freight or big box stores with equal success.  My preference for nozzle size is 1-2 mm with most being sprayed in the 1.5-1.8 mm range. Most folks are not nearly that fussy actually.

I find stirring thoroughly and loading through a reasonable sieve or strainer alleviates clogs and of course all my guns have a built in filter screen, but most do not so not an absolute necessity. Cleanup is easy with water - not cleaning after use often leads to frustration later.

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Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it. I've got a much clearer idea of what to research now. I'm going to look into spraying equipment and figure out how to set up a place to spray. I started to look in that direction after your previous reply but wasn't sure if I was on the right track. I've done a very little bit of spray painting with a can before but that's it, so it will be a learning curve!

I've been reading up on glaze chemistry too but it seems to make sense to practice application with commercial glazes first rather than do too many experiments at once. Thanks!

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there are simple siphon sprayers that work very well and have no complicated tools to use with it.    i do not know what is available in UK but something like the EZE Spray Gun works fine.  you can see a photo of one on the Highwaterclays.com  website for comparison with what might be available to you.   cleaning it just involves running water through it and washing the jar.

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Thank you! That looks like it still needs a compressor. Is that right? 

I was also looking at this kind (please excuse the Amazon link!) https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Electric-Ceilings-CSGLI2001/dp/B086X1C5JV/

It's a handheld paint sprayer. The same sort of thing is briefly mentioned in another thread but they don't say whether it worked or not.. Do you think that could work? It sounds like they're not amazingly accurate in terms of direction, but I'm just making a thin coat of one glaze, rather than drawing with it, and can easily mask the areas I don't want covered.

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yes, it does need a compressor.   i do not know of any method of spraying glaze that would not require a compressor except for one you would blow into with your breath.

maybe you could find a used one for sale near you.  compressors are fairly simple and very useful.   they can last for many years if not treated badly.

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Thanks. Yeah I saw a video of someone using an atomiser by blowing into it, which is a terrible idea for glaze. I like having lungs.... The problem I have is mostly space. That one I linked to is like a handheld drill looking contraption. "spraying pressure: 0.1-0.2Bar; maximum flow rate: 600ml/min; maximum viscosity: 40DIN-s; container capacity: 800ml " Sounds feasible, but it might be better to just deal with the fact that I need another big contraption. There's no mention of nozzle size which is probably a bad sign.

Edit - actually I've kinda talked myself out of that idea. I think a proper compressor and spray gun is more future proof and has plenty of other uses!

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The blow in atomizers do work - the lung part is a good point, as one must breathe in at some point. One should make it a point to only blow into the atomizer, for one, stand upwind for two, and plan well in advance where the next intake of breath will be, and when - all manageable.

Compressor actuated units likely generate more overspray, hence, more amelioration (and clean up) required.

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1 hour ago, Hulk said:

The blow in atomizers do work - the lung part is a good point, as one must breathe in at some point. One should make it a point to only blow into the atomizer, for one, stand upwind for two, and plan well in advance where the next intake of breath will be, and when - all manageable.

Compressor actuated units likely generate more overspray, hence, more amelioration (and clean up) required.

Oh it looked like it was working fine in the video I saw, but particles like to hang around in the air much more than we give them credit, and spread further too. Hence all the current mask wearing!

I'm already a little concerned about ventilation - I don't have much at all, and I live and work in the same room for the time being. But I've been thinking of boxing off an area for dusty work that will also work fine for spraying, and I have a gas mask/face shield.  Probably overkill but I'd rather be safe on that front.
 

1 hour ago, Min said:

There is a Wagner paint sprayer that doesn't use a compressor. Deb Schwartzkopf uses one, I don't know the specific model she uses, it looks similar to the one below but you could email her and ask. 

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That's the sort of thing I was looking at. But I saw a second-hand compressor and spray gun for sale very cheap locally and I'm pretty sure I've talked myself into that being a better investment, mostly because it'll be easier to fix if it goes wrong.

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2 hours ago, slartimcbartfast said:

I'm already a little concerned about ventilation - I don't have much at all, and I live and work in the same room for the time being. But I've been thinking of boxing off an area for dusty work that will also work fine for spraying, and I have a gas mask/face shield.  Probably overkill but I'd rather be safe on that front.
 

For spraying glazes it's absolutely necessary to wear a well fitting P100 mask/respirator. Unless you have a  spray booth that is vented properly or have the option of spray glazing outdoors I wouldn't attempt to spray glaze at all. I strongly don't recommend relying on boxing off an area as your dust control method.

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35 minutes ago, Min said:

For spraying glazes it's absolutely necessary to wear a well fitting P100 mask/respirator. Unless you have a  spray booth that is vented properly or have the option of spray glazing outdoors I wouldn't attempt to spray glaze at all. I strongly don't recommend relying on boxing off an area as your dust control method.

I have a full face respirator mask that is definitely more than up to the task. With regards to boxing off an area, I was thinking of basically making a virtually airtight area. I haven't watched the show but I've heard the sort of thing referred to as a "Dexter kill room" - surely that would be enough? But again, I also have no intention of poisoning myself for the sake of a few pots, so maybe I should just wait until I can afford a proper studio which would be a bummer but not the end of the world. I would rather be overcautious because I sleep in the same room.

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30 minutes ago, slartimcbartfast said:

Dexter kill room" - surely that would be enough?

Most folks just spray outdoors in the beginning and then progress to a spray booth with proper exhaust. Outside is free. No kill rooms please, very fine spray bounces off and back into the room so proper exhaust is a real thing.

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Ah ok, yeah I can see that would be an issue. I don't really have the option of working outside very easily and there's no sensible way to ventilate the space. I'm probably about six months off being able to get a studio so I think I'm going to have to hold off on this whole thing until then. Rats.

Well thank you all for your help. I have a MUCH clearer idea of what I'm getting into, and it'll help me make sure I get a place where I can do this kind of stuff when the time comes.

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