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Jigger and jolly Mould


Prateek

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Molds for any jiggering machine are all about the same. The bottom mold is keyed to fit the spining head. The top  of machine is usually a plexigalss or metal  or wood edge that cuts the clay the outer shape..

You can pour the lower half and while its setting you can cut its shape on the machine with a edge you make to get the inner form you like.

Hope this is clear enough. I do not have a jigger but have been around them.

so for. plate as an example the lower mold is the inner plater shape with the cutting edge making the outside and foot on bottom. The inner form is paster the cutting upper edge can be plastic or wood or metal. wood wears fast so make it out of a hard wood for  jig top-plexiglass is better I think to use.

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Thin pickings:

Jiggering in https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2015/06/Ceramics_Monthly_oct85_cei1085d.pdf

P16- in thesis https://scholarworks.rit.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2470&context=theses

If you have access (I don't)
Mold Making for the Jigger by Bill Campbell
Ceramics monthly June/July/Aug 1987

 

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  • 7 months later...

Hello everyone,

Greetings again and I really hope everyone is doing well during these trying times. 

Since last September I have managed to make few attempts at making moulds and templates, but of course I am facing some issues. Any help would be great. 

My moulds are not coming out clean from the inside. There seems to be lines, which I think is coming from the semi hard plaster which is stuck to my templates while I am moulding. No matter how much I clean the templates there still seem to be roughness in the mould. I am not sure the reason, but can the bevel of the template cause this? I am using a 8mm plexiglass as a template and have manually sand papered the bevels. Not sure how much of a slope am I supposed to give. 

I had to sandpaper the mould again once it dried but still not completely smooth. I am facing the same when I am shaping the clay. 

Thanks in advance.

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Basically, what you want to do, is "burnish" the surface of the plaster. (Easy to describe but hard to put into practice.)  

After you've created your basic shape you let the plaster set. (A little bit.) You remove excess plaster from the form and from the template. You then apply a SECOND coat of plaster, this time very liquid, and drop the template. This second coating will fill in the "lines" (low spots) and you will start to see smoothness.  This second coat will also dry very fast, hence a thin state, so you have to pay close attention. If you press the template down too hard you may get chattering so you need a gentle touch. You may, MAY, need to apply a third coat, and repeat the above steps, to get the smoothness you're looking for. 

The key to this method is timing. Everything happens very fast and you need to watch the plaster. Old plaster may set very quickly so you need to work fast while new plaster may give you time to think and adjust.  

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  • 1 month later...

Finally created an account just to say thank you to the community for the awesome resources provided here! I've been struggling with the same questions as Prateek for a while now and the answers provided here were incredibly valuable.

Thank you thank you!

Blessings,

Mathew

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Hi Mathew, 

it took some trials, but I managed to make a template for a bowl and a dinner plate out of a 8mm plexiglass glass. I made some moulds too, (its not as easy as it looks, for a newbie, of course, but works once you get a hang of it). Ill switch to a metal template once I know the plexiglass glass designs work fine for me. 

Thank you everyone for sharing the information. Really made things easy.  

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