zulma Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Hello from sunny Brisbane Australia I am hoping to take a a show of my pieces to Belgium I make large scale ceramic figures up to 2 meter tall I coil construct from a heavy grogged raku clay I would like to buy or make a clay body that can withstand frost and thaw has anyone got some experience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sorcery Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Are you familiar with the testing procedures outlined on Digitalfire.com? As a Bonsai Potter, I have this concern as well. What Cone will you fire to? You may be able to fire your Raku Clay to a Frost Proof or Vitreous state, perhaps with some amendments so it stays close to what you are used to working with. I recently sent an email to Phil and Dennis at Washington Street Studios requesting a YouTube video on Frost-proof, maybe that will come out in time to help! Sorce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sorcery Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Just keep your absorbtion..... Ready for it? Down Under 2%! Sorce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 https://digitalfire.com/article/outdoor+weather+resistant+ceramics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 I would add multiple soaking and freezing cycles of samples of differing thicknesses in addition to the boil and soak porosity test mentioned in Tom's link above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Val Cushing addressed this topic in his handbook. The absorption is some where around a couple percent; think bricks not, not tableware porcelain! There are commercial clay body’s that meet the requirements. LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 I think you can go either way, check the open to closed porosity of the body and see if it comes in at under the industry standard of less than 0.78. Re vitrified clay, porcelain insulators on power lines with zero porosity have stood the test of time although given what the OP is making probably not a good option to use porcelain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted September 12, 2020 Report Share Posted September 12, 2020 Glazed/unglazed could make a difference... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 The other issue to consider is the shape of your pieces and if water can collect on them anywhere, because when it turns to ice it will expand and break your piece regardless of whether or not it was soaked into the clay body itself. Even a small amount of ice in a cavity or recess can cause problems if it can't freely move as it expands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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