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Podmore pottery wheel electrical drawing needed


Jahrmann

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Hi all 

My whife got two Podmore pottery wheels type P6706,  and both have problems with the power when they are loaded, when she wants to throw big items there is no power.

Some years ago I fixed this by replacing a resistor and everything was ok, but now I need the electrical scheme/drawing. 

Anyone knows where to get this?

Best regards Dag

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  • 6 months later...

There is nothing too elaborate in the electrics, just have to be very careful as it is mains AC and high voltage DC. Also it is worth mentioning that it is a variac (variable AC transformer) that drives the DC motor through an AC to DC bridge rectifier, not a rheostat as some people seem to think. I have a circuit diagram for reference for my own wheel only, others may be different. In the P67.06 I have there are no resistors, just three smoothing capacitors, one on the AC in and one on each of the Field and ARM feeds for the motor.  The Normand DC shunt motor is rated 0-200VDC and 1.9A max. There is a mechanical limiter on the foot pedal which limits the output from the variac, probably by design, a wheel that is too fast is no use for throwing and also bad for safety.

From what you say it sounds like you have power but just not for "large" loads. I don't know what specified Kg load limit is for this wheel but this wheel is only rated 0.33HP. My wheel happily handles 6Kg. Haven't had a reason to do anything larger.

You might need a wheel with a bit more HP.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello

I hope you don't mind me jumping in on this topic. I have been asked to have a look at a friend's Podmore P6706 which keeps tripping the trip on the side of the machine.  I measured the current at the trip when the wheel is turning and I am getting 6A, the trip is rated at 2A. Motor seems to check out ok but on the field output from the controller when running I am only getting 40V the armature voltage varies between 0-60V depending on the  position of the pedal. It's the first time I have come across a DC shunt motor but from what I've read the field winding should  have full voltage (230v). Which leads me to think there is  a problem with the motor controller. Zak would it be possible to get the circuit diagram you have just in case I'm missing something. Thanks

Edited by Alan. A
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Thanks for getting back Zak.  I was thinking because  the output from the speed control to the field is 40v (should it not be around the 200 mark ? ) that is why the current is higher. Motor and wheel spin ok by hand and motor checks out ok with megger and voltmeter. Like I said I’m not familiar with a dc shunt motor. 

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  • 6 months later...

I have a P6706, I have intermittent fault where it does not turn when the footpedal is clicked on, repeated switching will work eventually and sometimes just rotating the pedal in the on position will start it up.  Is the round box that looks like a circular variable resistor that is rotated by the pedal, the Variac you refer to. If it is where can I get a replacement, I am looking at Farnell and am a bit bemused. My controller has Colvern Ltd 7505H CLR 4801/22 25Kohm marked on it. A Farnell part number would be really helpful and would inform future visitors to this thread.

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Hi Adrian

Sounds like that's a 25K potentiometer, a variac would be marked with voltage and current ratings not resistance ! If possible remove it and check resistance as it's turned.  When potentiometers are worn that would give you the fault your describing. Then go to farnell and get equivalent, same resistance, No. of turns, shaft size etc. I know it's less than a year ago when I looked at my friends but I'm a bit sketchy, I'm sure her pedal was connected to a variac rather than a potentiometer. Maybe a later or earlier model ?  Hope this of help

 

Alan

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  • 1 year later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Hello,

It has been a while since our wheel stopped functioning. It was fixed last week.
The schematic diagram mentioned in the previous posts is not quite the same as ours.
I have attached our diagram.

The issue we had is that the protection switch kicked in after a few turns of the wheel.
It turned out that the cause of this was a failed capacitor in the field circuit. This capacitor shorted out, causing a resistor to burn and a fuse to blow.
Even without field current there is some remanent magnetic field, and the armature could still turn. However, because the field is weak, the armature current was high. This caused the tripping of the safety breaker.

We replaced all capacitors, the burnt resistor and replaced the fuse. The wheel works fine now.

Ben

 

speed control pottery wheel forum.pdf

Edited by bcw
A few changes in attachment to improve readability
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  • 1 month later...

Hello, I have a Podmore Alsagar with an item in its control board that is broken. I'd like to replace it. Here's an image of the board: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rng6998pj0up023/image000000.JPG?dl=0

can anyone help me identify the glass item that is broken and guide me to where I can purchase a replacement or equivalent? 
 

many thanks 

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17 hours ago, Miss-T said:

can anyone help me identify the glass item that is broken and guide me to where I can purchase a replacement or equivalent? 

The glass item appears to be a reed switch. You would replace with a reed of the same or higher operating voltage and amperage while it needs to physically be the same size. The reed appears to be single throw, single pole - normally open. Goodwin definitely best choice.

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Hello,

Indeed, both items on the right hand side like like reed relays. The right on is marked as such - RR1. I asked a friend who is more into electronics than I am - he was wondering if this was an original attribute of the board, or a later addition. Also (unlike the relay on the right) it requires a high current to trigger.

Do you know something of the history of this wheel?

Do keep us posted, please.

Ben

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