starrs_ridge

Uploading here for anyone that's interested in installing a Bartlett Genesis Controller on an older manual kiln.
Due to file size limitations complete file can be found here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p6gW0n2eRcdhVYPq22rkSBLLjY2uM7yq/view?usp=sharing




 

You might find this interesting 
 
 
 

There are two spots on the lid: one on the inside and one on the outside. #3 is the one on the inside.
Sounds like another call to L&L for bricks. They were super helpful with the elements, thermocouples and other items, so I am sure they will be able to help with the question about the new bricks and the element holders.
Thanks!

Gearing up the Ohm's Law calculator -  you want the total amperage of the kiln to remain 60 amps but at 240V vs. the original 208V. There are 3 sections, so each will pull 20 amps. Using the calculator to convert that to watts and resistance, gives us 4800 watts and aggregate resistance of 12 ohms per section. If the 3 elements in each section are wired in series, they need to be 4 ohms per element. When you order the elements from L&L, ask/confirm the design resistance of each element and the connection requirements (parallel vs. series) for the elements they are providing. It is possible they have a different plan now than in 1996.

Specs are good! Funny the drawing shows off-center tap. I am guessing it’s just the drawing.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the Transformer specs are below:
TRANSFORMER 115/230 VAC - 50/60 HZ (PRI), 24 VCT (SEC) - 12 VA, L-G-TR24/00

You are correct, I need a 12va transformer -- I grabbed the wrong image here, sorry.  But thanks for pointing that out.

From https://tinyurl.com/jtcjby88
We also purchased this $34 amperage detector from Bartlett which is a tiny circuit board you connect to the kiln controller and has two white leads connecting to a ferrite ring.
You thread one 220 volt power lines from each relay to the heating elements through the ferrite ring, which measures the power being consumed.  This allows the controller to compare your current power draw to the original power draw when you installed the elements or in our case when we installed the controller.
The controller tests the elements for about 60 seconds prior to each firing.  A decline in amperage used is charted to determine your element aging and any sudden decline indicates the failure of an element.

I think it also does other helpful things, like reporting the power consumed (and its cost). Don't know if it can detect things like stuck relays in real time.

A standard AGC fuse and holder will work fine, 1/2 amp.
HERE is a wiring diagram for an L&L Easy Fire kiln. You may or may not want to include an on/off toggle like they do. Everything would be the same except the output from the relays will go to the outlets on your control box that the jumper cords plug into.

Thanks for all the advice and ideas to Neil and everyone else. I will definitely keep updates with photos as I go.
I will start with the control box retrofit to make sure that I can use the new Genesis controller mounted on the old box -- along with the new relays and transformers. With any luck, this will be ready to go by winter, when my wife plans to be spending more time at the wheel and will have pieces ready to fire.
Thanks again!

As noted by Neil above, you can drill new holes where you want the thermcouples to go. Measure carefully so you know where to start the hole through the metal shell to ensure it comes out the other side in the right place. Regarding new bricks, be aware that L&L has changed the size of the hard ceramic element holders several times over the years. Your kiln from 1996 has the original smallest size channels and thus can only hold the smallest diameter elements. When you order from L&L, they will ask you the serial number (which is the manufacturing date) so that they can send the proper size.
Also, regarding the reuse of the top-mounted control box with the Robert Shaw switches, yes that could possibly be used - if you are facile with basic metal working. The Bartlett controllers (either the V6-CF or Genesis) require a rectangular hole through the face of the control box so that the faceplate of the controller is on the outside while the circuit board and connectors are on the inside. You'll have to cut that hole yourself - after ensuring there is enough space inside for the controller, transformer, fuse, 3 relays, and the existing three 250 volt 25 amp sockets for the jumper wires to each kiln section. When I was rebuilding my J230 of a similar vintage, I didn't think I could cram all that in, so I built a new box with a metal enclosure box I got from the big river in South America dot com. Even then, there was some cutting and drilling required.
dw

if i read it right, you plan to use the present hole that is part of the kiln sitter for a thermocouple in the center section and use the current peep holes for thermocouples in the top and bottom rings?   sounds sensible to me.

You may be able to retrofit the old box with the new controller system if it's big enough to hold all the parts. Look at the current Jupiter models- the control box mounts on top of the element boxes, and connects with jumper cords. L&L recently switched to a much larger control box, but the old box was a lot smaller and everything fit fine. You'll need to fit 3 relays, a transformer, and a fuse. Otherwise you can buy a bigger box and either mount it to the element boxes or wall mount it and use longer jumper cords. If you're going with 3 zones, you'll need 3 thermocouples, and you can drill holes for those in the kiln body.
Any holes in the control box that wires go through will need some sort of strain relief, and everything must be grounded. If you need advice as you move forward, post lots of pictures here and we can review it.
 

You'll want to get the elements and thermocouples from L&L. Relays you can find online for 1/3 of the price, like HERE. If you're going to replace the wiring,  getting a wiring harness from L&L would be the fastest way to go, but you can buy  insulated wires, controller wiring, and terminals ends by the foot online and save some money there. Search SRML wire for insulated wire, I buy HERE. For jumper cords make sure you get cords rated for 105C/220F- you can buy SEOOW cable from McMaster and put your own plug ends on it. You can use SEOOW for the power cord, too. You can get insulating sleeving on Amazon. For the element blocks, use stainless steel hardware from the hardware store. You don't have to use the hex head bolts since they're hard to find, just use 10-24 panhead bolts.
Make sure all your wires are the appropriate gauge for what you're doing.
Get a Bartlett Genesis 2.0 controller. There may or may not be deals out there, just order from Bartlett if not.