starrs_ridge

Dana, This is an amazing document - and perfect timing for me, as I am just undertaking a similar project for a 3-zone, older Jupiter kiln. Question: I have ordered a different center tap transformer (a Signal DP-241-5-24, as opposed to your DP-241-6-24). I was going off of specs which were provided to me on the other post where you replied to me. Any reason for the DP-241-6-24? Thanks again!

Thanks!

There are two spots on the lid: one on the inside and one on the outside. #3 is the one on the inside. Sounds like another call to L&L for bricks. They were super helpful with the elements, thermocouples and other items, so I am sure they will be able to help with the question about the new bricks and the element holders. Thanks!

Next up: Bricks - Repair or Replace? I have attached a photo sheet of the 8 locations in the kiln and on the lid where major brick repair OR replacement needs to happen. I ask the experts to weigh in here. The photos are numbered 1 through 8, so that you can indicate for each number REPAIR or REPLACE. If you need higher resolution images please let me know -- because these are shrunk down in order to fit the size limit here. Thanks!

Just got off the phone with L&L technician. There is no problem converting from 208v to 240v with the existing setup on this old kiln. Although, he did correct me that the elements are wired in parallel (not in series). So, I have ordered the appropriate new elements and thermocouples. The bad news for my wallet (other than all these other purchases): I will need to use 3 AWG copper from the panel to the kiln, since it is a 50 foot run. Copper ain't cheap these days. Still, I am on track to keep the overall upgrade costs under $2,000, which is not a bad price for a basically new kiln with 10 cf of firing space. Of course this does not include the cost of the venting system -- but that will come later, after the kiln itself is completed. Making progress ...

Update: The transformer and relays are on order, as is the Genesis 2.0 Next: I will be ordering the new thermocouples and elements from L&L. Question: the wiring diagram which Neil linked to as an example is for an Easy Fire kiln -- which has 2 elements per ring. The J2927 has 3 elements per ring (9 elements total). Does that even matter? I don't think it does, since the elements are wired in series back to the power, and it's all about the total load -- not the number of connections. Am I correct here? For reference, here is a snip from the diagram with the 2-element connection:

Looking at the wiring diagram, the Transformer specs are below: TRANSFORMER 115/230 VAC - 50/60 HZ (PRI), 24 VCT (SEC) - 12 VA, L-G-TR24/00

You are correct, I need a 12va transformer -- I grabbed the wrong image here, sorry. But thanks for pointing that out.

Peter: Great idea! I have prior experience with current detectors in other applications, and what you describe makes sense. And it's very practical! Also: I definitely have an interest in tracking power consumption. I have a very good home automation hub which is able to track any wifi-enabled current sensor which is placed in-line at the incoming AC source. You have made me think about this as an important way to track the cost of firing the kiln. Thanks again!

I had not thought of that -- do you mean for the incoming 240v current? Or at some other point in the circuitry?

Yep, this is a perfect wiring diagram. Will do very nicely. Thanks!

The Bartlett Genesis 2.0 is on order. I have these lined up next: Three Relays: Schneider Electric 12VDC, 6-Pin Bottom Flange, Din Rail Enclosed Power Relay; Electrical Connection: 1/4" Tab Terminal (92S7D22D-12D) as pictured below. Transformer: DP-241-5-24, Power Transformer, Laminated, Pri: Dual 115/230VAC, Sec: 24VCT 0.5A; Center Tap; Power - Max 12VA; Mounting Type:Chassis Mount (see picture) Fuse: What amp rating/form factor for the fuse? Does the Bartlett documentation cover the schematics for wiring and components? Or am I on my own for that? Thanks again.

Thanks for all the advice and ideas to Neil and everyone else. I will definitely keep updates with photos as I go. I will start with the control box retrofit to make sure that I can use the new Genesis controller mounted on the old box -- along with the new relays and transformers. With any luck, this will be ready to go by winter, when my wife plans to be spending more time at the wheel and will have pieces ready to fire. Thanks again!

Follow-up questions: The new controller (Bartlett Genesis 2.0) would have to be the complete controller/element assembly (not just the panel), correct? By which I mean: there are two "boxes:" the one with the controller panel, and the box which it mounts to (the element/thermocouple wiring box). In other words, I cannot re-use the existing element boxes/connectors (this is a 3-zone, three-jumper setup. Three sections on the J2927 - see picture #1). These existing element boxes do NOT have thermocouples -- only the kiln sitter has a thermocouple (in the center section of the three sections). The bricks in the top and bottom sections have a peep hole, however, I THINK that I would need to replace the bricks in each section (where the element connections currently exist) with NEW brick sections that have proper holes for both the connection AND a thermocouple, yes? (See picture #2) The old analog control box has the Robert Shaw Infinity knobs and the old-style fuses -- and because that is all 208v, it has to go completely. Summary: Do I need new brick sections if upgrading to modern elements/thermocouples? And, do I need to get an all-new element connection box PLUS the controller box (such as the example in picture #3) Thanks again for the assistance!

Excellent advice, Neil, exactly the sort of input I was looking for -- thanks!