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Hulk

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Everything posted by Hulk

  1. Hi Gill, Tim, There are several good choices for new kiln; L&L is certainly a very good one... I have a seven cubic foot kiln, which was a bit big for starting out, but now I feel like it was a good choice for me. Fifty amps will limit your sizing down a rung from there. How much work to fire at one time, how often, and how big the ware? I've fitted my kiln with a powered vent and also a powered overhead hood. The former, I'd advise as a necessity, and the latter also necessary if you expect to be in the area whilst firing, for the heat and there's some fumes, even with the powered vent. If/when a new kiln becomes a serious topic for me, L&L Easy-Fire e23T will be on the short list. Perhaps forum regulars will compare/contrast the Jupiter series against some of the other choices. I'd spend the difference on somewhat else.
  2. Hi Jennie! Looks like DTP-56DC-E is the controller model. See image attached to first post, here: Programing Evenheat Perfect Fire For Bisque - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community The kiln is equipped with a "Perfect Fire" controller by Canadian Instrumentation (or something like). The condition, size, and firing range of the kiln would likely be key factors for you to consider, also features, power requirements, pricing... Look for an EvenHeat info thing - model number, voltage, phase, etc., like this: What type of work are you interested in doing? Low fire, "mid" fire (cone 5/6)? How big? What space do you have available? Do you own the space, is it isolated from living/working area, is there adequate power available ...there's more questions. Ahem, to start, what specific kiln model and specifications, pictures would be great, outside, closeup of the info thing, and good pics of the inside as well.
  3. I'll dry upside down - after trimming and handling, when the rim portion is cheesy hard - mugs and cups, not open ended stuff, like bowls. The openings stay round; I do run a tapered rounder on it a few times, just checking, and if there's somewhat out o' round, the rounder trues it back most o' th' time. I also fire rimside up, having put some effort into making it smooth and just so. The foot I'm expecting to have to dress off - polish, or sand and polish.
  4. Oh, aye! I got a diagnosis on account o' my GP was too busy to see me - staff said "you can go to Urgent Care." The Doctor who owns nearby urgent care is very thorough. I was there most of the day, awaiting my turn, however, worth it, for the Doc spent over forty five minutes and ran through detailed decision/evaluation tree with me. My GP is a dismiss-er. Any road, for hands, I'd recommend layers on the lower arm and wrist, as well as the typical glove, such that the tissue of the lower half of the lower arm and wrist are kept warm, as well as the painful bits. For feet/toes, a wool knee sock with the foot cut off, for the lower leg to shoe top, and another cut off ankle sock underneath that, as well as the typical as much uncut sock as reasonably fits in the shoe - point being to keep lower lower leg and ankle warm. From there, when ground is cool to cold, insulating foot covering is so important, for heat floods outta the foot to the floor, particularly stone, tile, and the like type floors. Brr.
  5. On the prune fingers and toes, some say it is related to absorption o' liquid by the skin, hence, pruning should be delayed by saltier water. Soft water, I believe, is as "salty" as the treated hard water it comes from, where the calcium has been replaced by sodium. Could be Shawnhar's well water had less stuff dissolved in it than the city city water. The other theory I'm finding is that pruning of fingers and toes is an adaptation to improve grip. I have Raynaud's in me toes - right tiny toe, sometimes also th' one next t't as well. The problems evaporate with increasing Spring temps, however, they have been returning with onset of cooler weather. I'm able to reduce the severity o' th' symptoms by wearing wool socks, changing out damp socks, always slippers inside (no more bare feet ), extra layers on ankle (key strategy*) and lower leg. Doc says spasm of muscle tissue around the artery reduces blood flow, hence purpling, swelling, numbness, pain. A very bad case could result in digital loss. Per Wiki: "This happens due to spasms of blood vessels in those areas. The spasms happen in response to cold, stress, or emotional upset." l don't believe my Raynaud's has any to do with wet; cold, most def, most def! The onset is marked by slight swelling, and a bit of pain + numbing; from there, a bad case (for me) involves purple flesh, more swelling, and more pain. Swelling bein' rather opposite of pruning... *I'm cutting the feet offa socks, using the upper portion for extra layers on the ankle - breakthrough! Likely I wouldn't be able to bike without this simple adaptation.
  6. Marcia Selsor is also listed there - Alternative Firing
  7. Weather here is very mild. While a damp box-like setup may yet be in my future, I'm still slowing/controlling drying individually - an inverted vessel over each piece. I've several two quart, three quart, gallon, two gallon, and five gallon containers that see regular use, also a good spray bottle for misting. Separate "accommodations" for each piece is more trouble, however, I like to be able to bring each along on its own timeline... ThruTraffic, misting and covering is likely already in your repertoire, however, if you're using plastic sheeting, you might try rigid vessels, inverted, which may not "leak" as much, don't blow around, and also don't shed clay dust (I loathe plastic sheeting!). The other idea that occurred t'me, although likely the humidity is rather high (Wunderground indicates 60% just now), a misting system for your work area might be somewhat to consider, and/or a swamp cooler? Evaporative coolers probably aren't a "thing" there, as they are in dry areas, however, if it knocks the heat down a bit and the wetter air slows down clay drying... Other thoughts: I'm adding a smidge of "reclaim fixit" to reclaim; doesn't take much to slow down drying quite a bit. Per Glazenerd's advice, eight parts OM4 ball clay, one part feldspar, one part silica. Am not finding the original thread(s); here's a reference: https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/25610-problem-with-clay-texture (see Callie Beller's post). I prefer clay a bit softer than what comes in the bag from the supplier; softer clay also takes a bit more time to dry...
  8. We sold the hoa home, modest profit, on account o' we were movin' to our retirement house. Hoa has some benefit, however, I'm ok with waiting on the County to fix the road, maintaining and watering our front yard all on our own, and taking our chances with what the neighbors choose to do and don't do - aye, thaat's the rub... On the bike maintenance, the "rule" bein' keep your garage door SHUT, I just laughed.
  9. If'n a private garage, and if there's any language in the hoa "rules" that catches against your hobby/production setup, recommend you block the sightlines to your kiln, for "they" will certainly be looking. A home ago, we had hoa, which stipulated no mech work in garages. Really. Oil change, tune up, tire rotation - all that, with door closed. Bike maintenance, however, did that with the doors wide open, and, yes, "they" did challenge that activity... Any road, proper wiring, fire/smoke detector(s), fire extinguishers, and sufficient ventilation are important, as is your commitment to monitoring your firing.
  10. Hi Pye! Watch that left turn at Albuquerque. Clay Planet and Aardvark clay ship two bags (fifty pounds) in USPS large box, 12"x12"x5.5" - they smoosh them a bit to fit, but fit they do*. Where to put it, that's a good point. If you place it IN the cab, place so it less likely to be a hazard, if, eh? At the back end, just inside the roll up door would seem both the easiest and worst place. You might plan for an easily movable pathway. Where the weight is fore/aft (and side/side), and that it's well braced against braking force may be considerations. Acceleration may be less of a consideration, but not to be ignored. Hope your trip goes well! While you're at the clay supply, anything else? Glaze ingredients, tools ('specially heavy stuff)? *Mail person appreciates a hand with them boxes - leave a note the day afore, meet 'm with the hand truck day of, etc.
  11. Simon says, "keep practicing!" Watching the many accomplished throwers on you tube, you'll see a variety of techniques. After a while, watch again, you'll see it different...
  12. Have found that if/when there is any inconsistency - a dry spot in the clay, lump of dry clay, a bit of some thing, a bubble (particularly this!), then the clay doesn't flow uniformly. The clay will pile up behind an obstruction, and thin out otherwise. For a wet spot, the clay flows faster and thins out, leaving a thick spot otherwise. All that to say that centering, keeping it centered, and uniform development are easier with consistent clay. Coning, aye that. Likely you'll find: a) an inconsistency in the clay, b) clay is moving around on the bat/wheel head, c) you've sheared the clay (this is usually near the wheel head - by trying to move it too much, too fast) when the clay won't cone up and down and stay round, one o' those three, or maybe somewhat new? Each is very hard to recover from. fwiw, I'm looking to center the clay where it meets the wheel head first, then work on the rest. On t'other hand, when ready to open, am looking for the mass of clay to be uniformly round - centered - except the little bit right at the wheel head. Opposite, I know, but that little bit won't make it up into the wall anyway. At the beginning, though, if the bottom won't center, the rest won't either, my experience, see a,b,c!
  13. How 'bout a seven cubic foot, sixty amp circuit, kiln vent and powered overhead fume hood, surround sound, and a mop bucket?
  14. Feels good to laugh, thanks! Yabba dabba dooo! My folks used to let me stay up for new episodes (way back, when we returned to the States, 1961...), 8 p.m. air time; I almost alway nodded off shorty after the opening montage... I can hardly imagine running a kick or treadle - too many aches and pains a'ready. I'd try it, if'n there were no alternative...
  15. Aye I'm curious where the weight is (if any), for manually turned wheels typically have some rotating mass...
  16. I've set prices for the year - through the holiday season - and am committed to sticking to'm until then. I had a wholesale opportunity, which, for me, meant wrapping my head around wholesale and being consistent with pricing. Excepting the (very) infrequent opportunities to shop and haul, shipping is a very big part of supply purchases - material and shipping costs are both going up up up. I'm trying for long term planning, such that most of my materials can be picked up when I can shop in person, however, that's once a year, if that...
  17. We'd visited some studios over the years during Fall "Open Studios" event here; since becoming interested in potting, we visited a dozen or so potters' studios. Last year the event was put on hold - it's "on" for this year (fingers crossed). I've ponied up the fee and hope to get some traffic - two weekends in October. I'm looking forward to it, but will miss the opportunity to visit others' studios... Most that we visited feature display of ware, some where workspace/process was visible, some where workspace was not visible/accessible at all. In my case, am thinking the studio itself will be open, and ware displayed there. Year afore last I'd invited one and all to visit my studio two weeks before Christmas - a few dozen folk came by; sales were modest but very appreciated. Visitors are welcome any time I'm available. Seems unlikely that traffic will ever become a nuisance. I've been considering inviting the local potters I've met to a meet/greet in our courtyard for an open ended eat, drink, be merry - perhaps late August.
  18. Aye. The article reposted under CeramicArtsNetwork.org includes images, however, they don't appear to match up; the original article is likely available via Pottery Making Illustrated, however II, not free. I also selected the link here Articles | mikejabburpottery (click on "Sipping Service"), aha, complete with images. I've enjoyed reading Mike's article - looking forward to re-reading it as well; he freely shares some of his reasoning and process. While I'm more of a stein/can/tankard/pint glass/Toby Jug o' beer person, I'd be happy to sit down for some sippin' with folk who are into that...
  19. I've fitted my (rather ancient) seven cubic foot capacity kiln with a kiln vent, which helped quite a bit with the fumes (and firing results as well), however, there were still fumes, and a lot of heat. From there, we put together an overhead system, using repurposed hood from a propane patio heater, six inch ducting (no longer in use) from under the house, and a 400 CFM fan. Said kiln is set up in a one car garage. With the rollup door up, window open, person door open, I still wouldn't want to hang out in there whilst firing without having the overhead system running - mainly due to fumes; I don't mind the heat as much...
  20. There was another info field (text) - I'd configured it with my actual real name - that's been eliminated, 'bout where the red "circle" is. The Member's (explicit, not rounded to nearest hundred) post count and upvote count were displayed, 'bout where the blue mark is, an' there wern't no dumb rocket impinging on one's avatar neither. Bromidic Rocket. Ah haven't checked character limit on the Location field - it's at least sixty-three (like me!). Change, aah, it's somethin' t' count on!
  21. Thank you Akils ...also from the Times: The Price of This Artist’s Work? A Conversation About the Horrors of War - The New York Times (nytimes.com) also Ehren Tool | Studio Potter
  22. With respect, Mark_H, I disagree. Swimming pools require constant, else near constant circulation and (seasonally) heat. With net metering, one may easily "bank" your 92 kwh within a reasonable time, e.g., our son's system is generating ~35kwh/day this time of year, of which they are using about half of that*. Worth it, that's key. We figure that we'd recover the outlay for our (small) system within eight years, however, as we run an electric car, more like 4.5 years, however II, as electric rates have gone up considerably, just over four years flat - a year ago. *Granted, they go through most of their "banked" power during the short days, which are quite short, as they are well North and in a canyon - "just sayin'"...
  23. I've had some improvement (with fizzing - very small bubbles) from extended holds at ~1500F in the bisque fire, both up and down, with powered kiln vent supplying a trickle of "fresh" air, adequate oxygen being important, so the authorities say (powered kiln vent also really helps reduce the fume load in the studio; I've set up a hood with a 400cfm to catch most of the rest as well as most of the waste heat as well...). Other adjustments for the fizzing red and black clays (I'm no longer buying black clay, but will continue with red!): i) drop and hold in glaze schedule - drop from peak temp to 100F below peak, hold there for an hour, then slow drop to 1850F before turning off the heat and powered vent ii) lower peak - I'd started out shooting for a cone 6 bent alla way over, now I'm shooting for cone 5 bent to "proper" position for red and buff clays. iii) bubble clearing glaze - some glazes clear the bubbles better than others; for clear, I've found Wollastonite Clear works fairly well. The few colours I'm using all behave fairly well. Here's a start on background/related info, which may be helpful, tmi, or somewhar in between... Drop-and-Soak Firing (digitalfire.com) Blisters (digitalfire.com) Surface Tension (digitalfire.com)
  24. If local power company does "net metering" - where your meter runs backward when solar is producing more than is being used - you can easily "bank" your kiln runs. We're still on 100% "net," however, many power companies are not doing straight deals. Eighty percent - get back 80 kwh for 100kwh - is common. Another issue, sizing, it's not always possible to get a big enough array to cover periodic events - like firing - without having the billing history. Our array, for example, is sufficient for running the house and charging the car, but not enough to cover periodic kiln runs. My take on battery storage, makes good sense at least two ways, i) where there are significant power outages, the storage can get you through; just use less than your solar array generates (minus loss) each day, and ii) where the power company doesn't do straight metering, the storage and loss costs can eventually be recovered. I'm saying at least two ways, for there are several other arguments for battery storage. There's an energy hit in stuffing into, then pulling out of the battery (loss), so there's that to consider as well. Net metering is more cost effective, and no additional outlay. As for calc, looks like I'd need five Powerwall 2 units to run my kiln, but it wouldn't run the kiln long enough for a glaze fire, let alone a bisque!
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