Hulk

Yep! See also Craigslist? ...widen your search to include metro areas within several hundred miles or more...

Although the market for used pottery gear may have softened a bit, looks to still be very strong. My only suggestions would be a) peruse recent listings (new & used) - same as buyers would do - and price accordingly, and b) keep the wheel, if you've a place for it to wait

Have done very little in kiln repair/maintenance ...so far, just disassemble, move, assemble a used kiln; rebuild used kiln's sitter; design (credit to several diy postings) and build powered vent; design and build overhead vent; install wiring for new kiln; assemble new kiln; minor troubleshooting of new kiln, aaand periodic vacuuming. So, low rating for Hulk. My siblings and I grew up in a diy household. We took apart just about everything ...an' put most of 'em back together as well. "Learn by doing" is. So is learn from mistakes (which is, imo, thoroughly baked into, endemic in Learn By Doing...). Know a lot? Good-oh, likely a lot of mistakes associated with that knowledge. A problem with knowing, as knowledge grows/widens/expands, so does the unknown - the border, the edges, the area, the vastness of the unknown expands right along with the known - so says the pundits, eh?

Spreadsheet maybe? I use one for updating my Wordle average each day, another for the running list of used words. ...another for bike miles and bike related metrics. Another for bookkeeping, with a page/tab for each category. Several with pottery related stuff. They can be handy for repetitive maths. I'd learned to appreciate Excel through work - so handy for analysis (protocol, messaging, transcription...) as well as repeat stuff (students' grades, energy calcs...) I like the recycle idea! We've thrown rocks and cement chunks into fence post holes to save on concrete...

Tiny tips one may have never seen, read, or heard 'bout before. Flexible metal rib, ideal (almost) for moving insects on the surface of water/glaze/liquid to outside the Studio. Tiny spiders, gnats, et cetera land on the surface tension - timely removal can prevent a tiny insectoid blob (and the bug can live on!). The rib's edge, just on the surface, allows the bug to change footing without wetting, nor harming them. Step outside, blow the bug gently off the rib, onto a rock, plant, or somewhat. Note the tiny antennae nod of thanks. Using actual real chamois leather chamois*? Is it floppy - stretched out - slimy and soft? When next you pour hot water into your throwing bucket, note that your chamois, when exposed to hot water, will shrink and "tighten up" considerably! ...maybe too tight? Don't worry, it will loosen up after while... It's not rainy today! *We have an actual leather chamois that was a gift promotion from an auto parts store, decades ago. I've been trimming strips off of it for pottery use over the last six+ years...

Perhaps Per B Sundberg, per image search Per B Sundberg | Objekt med hål (2013), Available for Sale | Artsy | Ceramic art, Pottery sculpture, Sculpture art (pinterest.com)

Double check that chromite! ...to be sure, what, exactly, is it? More to the point, is it a stable and fairly safe material? Is it a somewhat toxic material? Is it a highly toxic material? If there's any interest in mixing glazes, keep'm!

Yep, that's loud! My Skutt (Stephen Hill model, bought "used" in 2018 - preowned, not actually used) is loud; it has quieted down some with use. It was much louder clockwise than counterclockwise, at first, now opposite (I run clockwise). Commutator clean-up and polish helped, a lot at first, but the racket ramped back up some - not as much as afore tho'. I've often thought to do some sound proofing, but then I just turn on the surround sound and get throwing! We have some Elastilon (closed cell foam floor underlayment with a sticky side) scraps that might help. I'll report back when, err, if I get around to it. If soundproofing/dampening, be sure to avoid blocking the motor's cooling - keep it cool. added: You might reach out to Skutt support; they have a solid reputation for responsiveness... Several Forum regulars use Skutt wheels; check back for updates...

Hi River, Welcome to the Forum! Good questions, check back for updates from those experienced with porcelain*. Meanwhile, here's an excerpt from this thread Handle cracking question - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community: "I produce tons of handled mugs in C 10 porcelain (Daves-from Laguna ) with very little cracking-about 100 a week currently. I make my slip from my throwing slop off my hands and splash pan add a very small amount of vinegar now and then I score the join with a serraeted tool and add the slip -join-then cover the 5o mugs with plastic for the night. Uncover them next day and dry. if I have any small cracks I just rub it out when dry with a sharp wood tool." *US Pigment carries an Aneto Porcelain: Aneto – White Porcelain – US Pigment Corporation

Fingers crossed!

An electric heater may help. We use electric "crock pots" to melt wax for bicycle chains, e.g. New, this type of unit starts at $20+ (US dollars), however, we found used ones at local thrift stores for less than $10...

Nearly empty kiln, likely that cooling is significantly faster than kiln loaded with ware and kiln furniture (shelves and posts, heavy). As Bill has pointed out, the cooling rate can be slowed (difficult to speed up, however, other than reducing mass). With less mass, heat up could be faster, the second ramp, particularly, if not the last ramp up, which you've capped at 100°/hour... The smaller marks are "healed" over; the bigger pits/holes are the problem, ah! The close-up image, looks like stubborn chunk of off-gassing stuff in the clay, and you're already holding a full hour ~1500°F. With kiln vent running throughout? ...ah, yes, EnviroVent, check. If it is stubborn bits in the clay, long side glance at other batch/source of clay?

The circled defects (posted image by OP, above), is the bare clay visible? Are the other(smaller) spots also defects? ...looks like tiny pits in the glaze. The circled spots look like what I've called "large particle defect" - where something in the clay was off gassing, something that wasn't burned out in the bisque. I'd added a hold at 1500°F to the bisque when experimenting with black and dark red clays*; it seemed to help, a lot. One full hour, or half hour on the way up and again on the way down. Since, I've left the bisque hold, against the occasional "large particle defect" which seems to happen more or less often, depending on the clay... Running a powered kiln vent - supplying oxygen - should be helping with the burnout*. Are there more defects where the clay is thicker? More defects in thicker/heavier pieces? The blue and green glazes aren't showing any defects? *credit to Forum member GlazeNerd

Rainy today, good, err, ok for glazing! "Good" on account o' I don't bike or yard work in the rain, hence more time to glaze. "OK" on account o' no midday sunshine to warm up the Studio and no setting pots out in the sun to dry faster*. Was doing seven to ten glaze loads/year, however, an accident (October 2022), then moving, some projects, and a few other things came up ...one glaze load in the new kiln at our new (to us) home since Fall 2022, glazing for the second load now. Hope to get back to filling the kiln every month or so. Before, I felt like there's a volume/time threshold where improvements ramp up, where there's some longer sessions and higher frequency, bringing along established "standards," and making time to explore variations, new shapes, sizes, forms, clay ...new stuff as well as moving along with the most familiar. I like having a seven (6.7) cubic foot kiln to fill. There's enough repetition to get rhythm, but not too too much. *I'm letting the pots thoroughly dry after liner glazing before glazing the outside - sunny weather is faster. ...add on that I wax, cut the transition, sponge for a sharp line - there's wait for the wax to dry, wait for the sponge-away moisture to dry, that's three waits. Getting part of the load to the next step asap helps march them all along, like pipeline processing, heh.

Kiln glasses against harmful rays and superheated flying bits! Flying bit risk is extremely low, yes, however, harmful ray risk is, is.

We've tented frost sensitive citrus (dwarf variety, in containers) trees with a light tarp to get them through freezing nights - a short string of xmas lights to add some heat makes a big difference...

Good question! I've used a few red clays, really liking IMCO's "Red Velvet Classic" cone 5/6 clay. The other reds were (much) more sensitive to overfiring, exhibited more defects, and required more fussing to dry without cracking. IMCO's red throws better, imo. My glazes certainly look different over the red - I like the look though! The black clay I'd tried (not IMCO's) was expensive, sensitive to overfiring, and my liner glaze didn't fit; fired, it's very dense and strong, however. So, I'd like to recommend IMCO's Golden Brown, Coffee Berry, and Night clays, however, I haven't tried them myself. You might give IMCO a ring to ask questions; I've found them to be open and responsive. Aaron is the person I usually speak with. He was off last time I was there; the person who helped me was also friendly, open, and helpful, however. Hope this "bump" helps - check back, perhaps someone will post some brown and black recommendations...

Mr. Hansen replied (on FB group "Clay Buddies"); question "Any chance that drop 100F from peak and hold 30 minutes helps the silica to dissolve?" Answer: "Certainly, the more time the more dissolves." and later, "Our main transparent glaze was not crazing either. At least that’s what we thought. On certain bodies it was crazing over time. Changing to the finer silica has definitely improved it. Silica is cheap, I would get some new stuff and use what you have to make Porcelain." My first kiln was certainly slow on the last 160°F or so. The new kiln, I've set the last ramp to just about match the old kiln. Perhaps the gentle/gradual final ramp to peak, drop 100°F to extended hold, and controlled/slow cool to 1850°F all help? ...and the mix of fluxes. Next run for heavy supply/material, I'll buy a sack of 325 mesh! Meanwhile, I'm still curious about others' experiences with silica "meshes" for cone 5/6 glazes, and thanks for the replies. Electric rates, whaaa? Our peak rate was 43.67¢/kw (off peak rate 40.83¢/kw); looks like 51.54¢/kw (48.7¢/kw off peak) since 1-JAN-2024, aah, the rates did go up! ...the "break even" point on our new (went online August 2023) solar array will be that much sooner then, eh? The utility (PG&E) does separate accounting on "peak" and "off peak" (peak for us is 4-9p.m., every day) usage, hence, limiting/monitoring peak usage does matter, particularly as there's little to no solar generation at that time during "winter"... Our house is on a North facing hillside. When the sun's arc is lowest (November through January), the shade hits the panels at about 2:15p.m.! During the design phase, I asked the Engineer if five more panels could be added. "Uhhmm, oook" they said.

This copied from a manual dated "Rev. 09/18" Note the dimensions; several vendors list Brent fuses, however, I'm not finding the twenty and twenty-five amp fuses, just 6, 8, 10 amp fuses for Brent wheels on ceramic/pottery supply vendor sites. However ii, try this search string: ".25 x 1.25 slow burn 20 amp fuse" Brent lists it, $10.90 Allfuses.com has the lowest price (that I'm seeing this morning). I'd started reading up on fusing DC motors, uhm, 20 amps does seem "big" ...however iii, seems it takes a lot to get the motor turning, "...electric motors have a tremendous amperage draw during the starting phase..." However iv, I'm not an expert on electric motors! My guess on the motor bearings, likely they are press fit sealed units. If that's the case, even if it is possible to repack them (with grease), once they are out and in hand, might as well replace with new ones. Measure the inner and outer diameters, and stack height. Look for quality. An electric motor repair shop may be an option. If you can post a clear image of the information plate (or copy the serial number), that might provide a date of manufacture clue? I believe a Forum regular had mentioned the serial number includes the year... Check back for updates; perhaps someone has direct experience with the blue motor!

Ah, NOVA kiln Here's a manual for what might be similar kilns novaman1.pdf (aakilns.com.au) ...which have lid vents! Hence, the lid vent may be orginal. The same company has a manual for NOVA controller novaman2.pdf (aakilns.com.au) From this archived thread My weird kiln won't reach temp - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community : *begin quote* Duncan bought rights to the Nova kiln during the 1970s. All the Duncan kiln manuals can be downloaded from the Paragon website. (We list the Duncan manuals because we contracted with Duncan to sell their kiln parts after they discontinued kiln production in 1997.) Here is the link to the manual for the Duncan EA-092 The Crafter-Plus and the EA-122 The Artist-Plus ceramic fiber kilns. I believe these models were originally Nova kilns http://www.paragonweb.com/ManualInfo.cfm?CID=171 Sincerely, Arnold Howard Paragon Industries, L.P. *end quote* I'm not finding a direct match. The EA092 does look similar ...but it isn't 240v and is much smaller. LX855_Duncan_EA-092_EA-122_Manual.pdf (nxedge.io) Try contacting Paragon?

Hi Sierra, welcome to the Forum! Is there an information plate on the kiln - model and serial numbers, brand/maker, voltage and amperage requirements? If so, please post a close up image of the info plate. While you're at it, a pic of the inside also? That hole in the lid seems, err, too big! Perhaps it had been fired with a baffle over most of that hole?

Hi JPS, welcome to the Forum! Good question. Lizella Clay page on DigitalFire.com includes comparison with Redart: Lizella Clay (digitalfire.com) That's a start; please check back for updates/suggestions from others... Added: digitalfire.com entry on Redstone (per Min's post, below) Redstone (digitalfire.com)

Is it possible to deduce which ramp(s) went over on time? Data Menu -> Graph Past Firing Graphs from the last ten firings Compare the actual segment runtime to entered value. ...step out to the kiln, look at graphs...Brr! It's cold out there! ...up to 39°F If it is not clear which ramp(s) are at issue, then watching the graph during next firings should clear it up?

You might get lucky finding someone with bamboo growing in their yard who will give you some - keep your eye out for bamboo! Bamboo sticks are sold for staking plants, try searching "bamboo sticks" or "bovitro bamboo sticks" - Amazon carries them. As for selecting hair, see https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/40726-qotw-have-you-ever-experimented-with-making-you-own-brushes for some ideas. This Blick page has a paragraph at the bottom on "Ceramic and Glazing Brushes" Ceramic and Glazing Brushes | BLICK Art Materials (dickblick.com) Keep an eye out for brush hair sources! Carry your scissors, tape, and plastic bags with you. :| I use "chip" brushes more than anything else in my Studio; they are also called "throw-away" brushes. I get them in several sizes, and trim the bristles as necessary. ...I don't do much brushing, however. Please do report back on your progress?

Hi ClayFishStudio, Welcome to the Forum! Looks like a Mason jar (the regular one, not "wide") Image above copied from the Critter website Try searching "plastic Mason jar" - looks like there are many options, e.g. Target carries "Cornucopia" brand eight pack, sixteen ounce jars for twenty dollars, however, it's an order item at our local store, eight day wait.