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Rae Reich

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Everything posted by Rae Reich

  1. I think in the tea ceremony the cups are not set down for any length of time after filling, they are kept in the hand, cleared and washed immediately. Not really enough time for seepage. Maybe I'm picky, but reheating coffee in the microwave for a whole minute on high seems excessive and makes the coffee taste awful. 30-40 seconds should be plenty, unless it's a Big Mug, imho.
  2. I think you're right to intuit that overhead heat "clearances" might be different from the sides and floor, due to heat rising. Do you have a little wall thermometer to put, during a firing, where you want the shelf? Possible that overhead clearances were never calculated by the kiln company because they assumed that nobody in their right mind would want to put anything above it?
  3. Weren't the old salt and soda kilns stacked without shelves?
  4. Been wracking my brain to think of what, in a potter's booth is "light and bulky" to be carried on a roof rack. Everything is heavy. Maybe tent poles and lightweight shelves? I have 4' x 12" kiln dried cedar overhead garage door panels for shelves that are lightweight, but most sturdy wood shelves get pretty heavy.
  5. @Mark C. suggested JB fast set. Might be preferable to holding epoxied bits together interminably.
  6. Maybe you haven't had the experience of hearing a "ping" from a pot which has been out of the kiln for months or even years? Slow cooling or mere adjustments to circumstances? I was hanging with other potters in the studio when we heard a "ping" from the "keep it 'cause I love it but it's a second" shelf. After careful examination, we discovered that a teapot lid, which had been glazed shut years before had suddenly freed itself! As @neilestrickmentioned about glass cutting, fractures run through glass (or glaze) differently than clay. I'm just suggesting that trusting glaze to glue the c
  7. Uneven cooling can happen in gas kilns as soon as a peep is left out, a door is cracked or a brick removed because it automatically creates a draft, drawing air in from the burner ports, unless blocked.
  8. Great idea, @Russ, but I wouldn't count on the glaze for permanent bonding - awful if it gave a few "pings" and discorporated! Reinforce with JB?
  9. Find "In the Potter's Kitchen" by Sumi Von Dasow. She covers most ceramic cooking forms and advises on materials. I think your decorations on cookware and dinnerware would be charming.
  10. I bought a cup and saucer at an import store, white clay, slipcast, glazes: black cup, white saucer. They both excessively overheated in the microwave, so I think it's the clay, rather than the glaze. It's a fine-grained clay that feels "too heavy." I have a few red stoneware ^10 with iron-saturate glazed dishes that don't get as hot when nuked.
  11. I got that one, on your recommendation, for my granddaughter's sculpture projects. I was impressed by how sturdy and well-built it is. Nice smooth spin and a large table. Thanks I think I prefer my old Lockerbie banding wheel for pots, though, heavyweight but with a smaller table, since most of my pots are under 8" wide and I can always add a bat if I need wider.
  12. @neilestrick, nice tip on the drying - not something I had ever considered, but (duh) sensible. Thanks.
  13. I make rulers out of fresh clay (not leather hard) for every kind of clay I work with, marked in 1/4", six inches long. (Use an embossed plastic ruler, oiled up. The numbers will be backwards, but legible.) After firing, rulers are used to measure desired finished width. Example: place the ruler at the 4" end of the cork, (number will be greater than 4" because the ruler has shrunk), then measure the wide end. Average the numbers to get the width to make your opening.
  14. Concrete can be cast nicely slick and shiny around steel legs if you use Formica forms. Not really suitable between cracks in wood because they don't expand and contract equally, which is also true for all ceramics. Doesn't seem like the same material should be used in both applications. Is there some "plasticizer" or resin-y additive for concrete, or a grout that would stick and flex? Cleanup, or boo boo prevention, could be a problem when filling cracks between rustic boards. Maybe tinted Bondo - butter the edges like brick before joining, plane/sand when cured.
  15. Admiring your determination. Hope you have better results with better weather. Note: a strong draft may be emptying the kiln of heat before it can build up. A damper on the exit flue will offer more control.
  16. Brush on a blue stain or underglaze. Brush on 2-3 coats of white glaze. Don't bother wiping, the glazes will produce the effects.
  17. Those ornaments are really nice, Bill. How long are they and how are they priced?
  18. I like to do this, too. Two advantages: the piece being glazed can be dipped/covered evenly and, a smaller amount of glaze is needed so that last 1/4 bucket or small batch can be stretched out.
  19. Cats - don't piss them off. They know which things you love.
  20. I don't need the volume of a Talisman, but thanks for reminding me that I have an old broad and shallow sink not being used out back! I've been using a standard laundry tub for clean-up, and don't like hauling heavy buckets in or out of it. The perfect solution
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