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laughlin

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Everything posted by laughlin

  1. Right - I also think those aren't thrown and figured on hand building my version in any case. I've made similar forms and that part shouldn't be hard. I think it'll be fun, too. I've been hand building with Coleman's porcelain for the past year - I love it and have managed some pretty challenging-for-me figural and other delicate stuff, but it'll be nice to have something staunch and gnarly and less like toothpaste in my hands for a change if I can make it work. Just googled Rimas - he has some really interesting surfaces going there! I'm away from home and planning the summer, making a divers list of grits and crumbs. Thanks!
  2. Good idea, thanks! I know his name from my teaware-obsessed days.
  3. Sawdust... will try that too. How about irregular big feldspar? I have a (purchased) yunomi with that treatment but the little 'lumps' are oddly very regular, roundish and discrete looking. I've never altered a clay body before so this will be interesting. I def know how to overwork and overwater a thing until it's very rough at the edges, I'll try to turn that fault to an advantage. Worried about the sculptural clay - I did try some Soldate somewhere along the line and it could barely be bent into a cylinder (slab building). Ended up making boxes.
  4. I'm OK with a little weep - I drink my tea from beloved Hagiware etc. that stains all through and I'm sure collects beneficial bacteria in unglazed nooks and crannies, cough. More worried about plasticity? But you're right, I was somehow seeing paler flecks - it's just that texture. I've got some Red Rock around, maybe I'll experiment with really trying to pull the grog up. But it's actually a pretty smooth clay.
  5. Right - but this is large, irregular and multi-colored grog. Just thought to look at some sculptural clays and some seem to resemble this. Never worked with sculptural clay - these would be hand built so ease of throwing not at issue, but now wondering how that sort of stuff works for dinnerware. Hm.
  6. I love these pieces by Tri Lukne. I've scoured the internet for a hint of what clay that might be but only found her comment that she uses a "lightly grogged (seriously?) buff clay". I'll email her but she's not in the States and unless she makes her own hers is unlikely to be available here. Does anyone know of a commercial clay that yields that sort of surface, or have any idea re wedge-in additives to get that effect? Sheffield, Highwater, Standard or Laguna is available to me locally. Wondering if she just sponges something heavily to rise the grain. Sand? Feldspar? That's magnesium speckle? I can fire oxidation, reduction, wood, any temp. I can't tell if that's bare clay or a matte glaze on the raw-looking surface either. Would really like to make myself a similar dinner set. Thanks!
  7. Thanks so much - that makes sense. And I take your advice.
  8. I accidentally slathered a newly made mug with magic mud instead of slip. Will that affect the glaze, or anything else? (^6 oxidation) It's a nice surface, actually - was a bit sticky which is what alerted me that I'd got the wrong bucket.. I make magic mud with a bit of soaked paper blended with clay body and magic water (small amounts of sodium silicate and soda ash mixed with water - most of you know of it I'm sure). Used for mending and tricky joins. Thanks.
  9. The part about no holes in the method LeeU suggests. Really not even the teensiest hole that you might not even notice. Old lady's method makes slow clay soup. I made pretty fast clay soup. Otherwise it's a terrific method.
  10. Just found this - it's a VERY slow loading website but discusses results with different clay bodies of pretty much all of the Amaco PC glazes, with pictures. Handy! http://www.brackers.com/tag/layered-glazes/page/2/
  11. Thanks, Bette and Gabby! Bette, after I posted this I did come across those red clay pics on the Clayscapes website, really helpful. You can kind of make a better *guess* about how other similar glaze colors might react from studying those. Amaco puts so much time and energy into testing glaze combos and extensive marketing, you'd think they'd do likewise with clay combos. And Gabby, that was really helpful. I'm making a list. (Seaweed can be such a gorgeous glaze. It didn't go purple, I gather - I thought it might.) I'll make a ^6 'porcelain' bowl tomorrow and glaze 'em identically, and then get fatally hooked on chasing the commercial-glaze-layering dragon.
  12. Thanks for posting the underglaze tests. I've used a lot of those for sgraffito but mostly on porcelain/porcelaneous stoneware. re PC glazes: I just happened to have the speckled red clay on hand. I found a few pics of Potter's Choice glazes on red/red speckled clay, and a few discussions, and it does look like it can complicate matters. I think I want to try an Obsidian/Seaweed/something else combination, and we'll just have to see what happens. I expect things to be maybe not so vibrant and a little less glassy on this claythan on white from the photos. Lots of variables, though. Still pretty. I like the really runny look. We'll see.
  13. Thanks, aperhapshand - I've visited those sites, not many on red but you've reminded me to comb again -hoping to find something inspiring before this crazy wind blows the power out. Where'd I put the dang candles? Wow.
  14. Pricey to buy a pint of glaze for every test, aperhapshand - for my very tight budget, anyway. And yeah, I was figuring on testing with a less important piece -I know people get a lot of surprises in any case. Was just hoping to narrow my options in case anyone had red-clay favorites. I wish there were photos out there of Amaco etc. on red clay - there just are not very many. Even in the big Amaco glaze forum.
  15. (Sorry for double post - I can't see where to delete it.)
  16. I thought I'd maybe try a commercial ^6 glaze on a big stoneware bowl, but I'm currently working with a red clay and 99% of the online photos are showing results on a white clay body. I know I could slip it white before glazing, but has anyone had especially good results with a glaze/glaze combo on red clays? I've encountered some warnings re bad color and texture surprises, but not many ideas. This one (Highwater Red Rock) has manganese specks as well, just to complicate matters. Test tiles with commercial glazes is a pricey gambit! Dunno what I want to do with this surface, all ideas welcome. Thanks!
  17. I thought I'd maybe try a commercial ^6 glaze on a big stoneware bowl, but I'm currently working with a red clay and 99% of the online photos are showing results on a white clay body. I know I could slip it white before glazing, but has anyone had especially good results with a glaze/glaze combo on red clays? I've encountered some warnings re bad color and texture surprises, but not many ideas. This one (Highwater Red Rock) has manganese specks as well, just to complicate matters. Test tiles with commercial glazes is a pricey gambit! Dunno what I want to do with this surface, all ideas welcome. Thanks!
  18. Thanks! I knew they'd work on bisqued clay, glad to hear that extends to *underglazed* bisque. More room to fiddle is always good.
  19. I've got a bisqued mug with a lot of various underglazes layered over textures on the outside, it's nice. I'm unhappy with the solid underglaze blue on the handle and inside - it wants 'ageing'. Will bisqued underglaze take a watered down underglaze wash OK? And for future reference, what about painting undiluted coats of underglaze on bisqued underglaze? I've only used UGs on greenware. I'll be glazing with the usual clear. Thanks!
  20. Well I hand build, but I've gotta make one of those things. Because I have to have one. I could live on baked apples. Very cool idea.
  21. Oh nuts, I placed that order too - haven't got it yet. Sure looked like 5 brushes from the ad, but I didn't look real close. Oh well, I'll have 2 of the tinies now, too, they're nice. I DID think it was an insanely good deal.
  22. S. Dean - I do think so, sometimes. I've kind of come to the conclusion (after too long stubbornly trying to find a consistency that made sense) that the makers represented in there chose to measure the 3 dimensions that made most sense to them, variously. My humble opinion is that outside height x width without handle (like, rim diameter so as not to get distracted by curves in the body) x width with handle would be the most useful for practical purposes (ie, for shipping, storage, etc.). Of course if it's like an exaggerated stein with a bottom diameter hugely wider than the rim... you see why nobody has settled on this one.) I don't do production, though, so those considerations aren't important to me - I was just thinking about design and the effect different measurable dimensions had on the visual feel of a mug. I just got hung up. And you guys are too kind.
  23. S. Dean - I think that would make the most sense. Just don't use 500 Cups, an otherwise terrific book, for figuring proportions of some of those vessels, as it ain't always true. Which is why we have eyes, I'm reminded, and room to fiddle.
  24. I'm so sorry andros! I should have understood that. And glad that someone else found that site useful, too! This forum is an amazing resource - I rarely need to ask, because answers are usually already in the archives somewhere. I still don't know what those 3 measurement indicate (width can be at any point, and etc.) and have concluded that it's not standardized and no one knows. But got something else helpful from the discussion anyway. Have a beautiful holiday!
  25. You might like this method too, nancy lee, since you like hand building. It's done with soft slabs so you can easily form a soft square or a cylinder - it's easy once you get the hang of it. Here's Liz Zlot's directions - if you image-google her work you can see different ways that she uses the same principle. https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/pottery-making-techniques/handbuilding-techniques/how-to-slab-build-a-simple-darted-cup/ .
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