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Showing results for tags 'recipe'.
Found 14 results
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Recently tried to make this glaze (snowflake #4) but it turned out very weird and matte and almost chalky
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I am a beginner in the field of glazing , i want to make some tiles and i heard about a technique called cuerda seca mostly used on tiles work. i searched alot for the recipe or formula for the material used in this technique to be applied by silk screen but can’t get what am looking for, just found one product called artistic line resist but unfortunately it couldn’t be delivered to my country. so please if anyone could help me with that i will be so thankful, all i know about this material that it contains a bit of wax
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Hi all, Second time posting here and I’m hoping you can help! Hopefully this is the right place to be for a troubleshooting question like this. Im currently working from a recipe for Val Cushing’s Cone 6 Porcelain Slip. grolleg: 15% tile 6: 15% Epk: 3% om4: 10% flint: 25% neph sy: 30% gerstley borate: 2% —————————— Sodium silicate: .0028% calgon: .0005% When I mixed this before, as now, I subbed the deflocculants with Darvan. I mixed it successfully then, but I’m currently have difficulty. I know that darvan generally subs for sodium silicate at 2-1, so bearing that in mind, that’s where I started. I kept adding darvan in small 5g increments up to 100g in a 10000g recipe. That seems like far too much, but maybe I’m wrong? I feel like I’m on the other side of that deflocculation bell curve some how and missed my mark. Every time I come back to the studio the slip is gelled thick but never settled and never develops a skin. When I’ve added more darvan, the slip temporarily thins, but seems to rebound to being too thick the next day. Can the casting process indicate overdeflocculation? If so, in what ways? What should I be looking out for other than settling and a skin in my bucket? Can anyone offer any advice on this recipe or deflocculants? I’ve been doing some hard research and testing and can’t nail it down. My current gravity is measuring at 1.71, so I’m hesitant to add more water, since according to some other online sources I should be aiming between 1.7 and 1.8. I’m wondering if I should throw caution to the wind and say “this slip just needs more water than most”. Ive mixed this slip before with great success two years ago. I have no clue what I did right then. Dumb luck haha. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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My co-op studio is desperately seeking a glaze recipe for one of our favorites called "My Blue" that we had previously ordered through Glazemixer. It is a cone 6 oxidation glaze that is a beautiful opaque light blue that breaks dark brown over texture. If you or anyone you know is aware of this recipe, we would be ecstatic to be able to get more! -
I took ceramic classes in college and loved it. I quickly became good on the wheel and that is my primary focus, however I also sculpt. I had the pleasure of working with multiple different clays. I primarily used stoneware and porcelain but occasionally earthenware as well. The stoneware I fired at cone 10 and 6 and porcelain at cone 10. I would consider myself a beginner as far as mixing the clays because I never had to do it and all the clay was made for us. I would like to mix my own clay bodies at home because I assume it’s cheaper than buying pre-made clay and I also will have more control with my preferences. I really liked stoneware and porcelain and wondered if anyone had any good recipes to share and advice to get me started. Like I said I mostly do wheel throwing (mugs, plates, bowls, teapots, etc.) I have the capabilities to fire up to cone 10. Thanks to everyone in advance!!
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I have been experimenting with gold lustre over the past six months - simply applying it over a stoneware clear glaze. I accidentally applied it to an unglazed surface on one of my pieces but I really ended up enjoying the satin finish of the gold. I tried to replicate this finish but the gold flaked! I mean...I know all gold lustre instructions say to apply to a glazed body, but I figured it looked so good on my accident then perhaps I could replicate it, right? Wrong! I am looking for either a satin or matte clear glaze to apply onto a porcelain body so that the lustre can be have more of a satin or matte finish. This is for jewellery pieces, so I have some carving and slip detail added to the pendants, so ideally I don't want the glaze to hide the carving or slip trailing detail. It would be even better if this glaze could go in with my other pieces which I fire to 1260c, but not essential. - Ash
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Hello, Can you please tell me how to make speckled clay body, not a glaze? Or, if there is anything about it from previous topics to send me a link? Thank you in advance!
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Our studio has been using Glazemixer in the past and it is obvious to us that we cannot get our glaze from Glazemixer any more. We are now using another vender to mix our dry glazes. The problem we are having is that we do not have access to some of our favorite glazes - Green Pooling Blue and Mother of Pearl. Do anyone know how we can get these glazes and if we can get the recipe for them. Does anyone use the Hobart Cowles Fluid Blue-Green Glaze in the Cone 5-6 Glazes (pg 118)? If you have used it could you post a photo of it and give the type of clay. We would like to know the HC B-G is like Green Pooling Blue? Thanks for any help Ginny J Clay Artists at the Vineyard San Diego, CA -
I just tried making paperclay slip from a recipe that I was given at a workshop. The slip has turned out extremely runny and will not dry. To a 50# bag of dry porcelain clay Add to one qt of warm water • 7 grams Barium Carbonate • 13 grams soda ash To a 5 gallon bucket add • 2 gallons of water Add the barium carb mixture to the water and mix for 5 minutes, and while water is mixing: get mixture ready • ¾-1 oz of sodium silicate • 1 oz Darvon • 2 oz of water The paper pulp is made separately and added to the slip. First, it wasn't clear that you don't add the pulp to the entire 5 gallons of slip, so I added it to 2 gallons. I tried dipping wire and after 30 minutes, it's still wet. I left both the slip and the paperclay slip uncovered overnight in hopes of evaporating water, but that hasn't helped. I would really want to save this batch because I can't afford another 50# bag of porcelain. I wonder if there was too much deflocullent in the slip? Can I save it by adding a flocullent like epsom salts? Btw, are the epsom salts bought at a drugstore the same used in ceramics? Aloha - Eve
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Hi I'm wondering if anybody has a recipe for a cone 10 reduction copper red glaze (I'm talking oxblood or peach bloom, NOT flambé) that flashes electric blue? I hear that if you use a feldspar based glaze and use a feldspar that is high in potassium and low in sodium (usually its the other way around) that the glaze will tend to have these blue flashes more. If you know a good recipe and have tried it yourself what cone does it work best around? I know that these glazes don't do best at cone 10 but rather around 8-9, but I still wanna hear your experience. Also, I like to do a quick oxidation at the end of my firing in order to make the copper reds less muddy and dark. If you've had good results, how long do you do this oxidation for? Thanks, Hunter
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I did some searching and didn't find much as far as favorite glaze recipes, so I thought I'd start this. What are your favorite glaze recipes? Include pictures OF COURSE!!!! American Shino, Cone 10 Reduction: 50 Nepheline Syenite 25 Ball Clay 25 Spodumene 0-2 Soda Ash Yellow Matte, Cone 10 Reduction: 50 Nepheline Syenite 25 Epk 25 Whiting Mackenzie Grey, Cone 10 Reduction: 50 Custer Feldspar 25 Whiting 25 EPK Kaolin For more pictures, in-depth explanations, qualities and shortcomings, and even MORE recipes, visit my website!
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Hi, I have recently been experimenting with converting a few of my production pieces to slip cast pieces. I took a Hiroe Hanazono workshop at Arrowmont, ( excellent BTW ) and learned the basics of slip casting. Since then I've made molds of my pieces and have cast several of them. Everything is going swimmingly except... My work is all in a red clay, I use RedRock from Highwater, fire it to a hot 5 / cool 6, I have made a slip from RedRock by drying then adding 40% water and .3% Darvan 811. The problem that I'm getting is that my slip keeps gelling up. I've already got over the maximum amount of deflocculant in it, and have had to add water anyway bringing my specific gravity down to 1.6 instead of the desired 1.75. It's working, but still gelling, I assume from the Iron in the clay. Does anyone have a good cone5/6 red slip for slip casting recipe? I don't mind if it is speckled or not, and it doesn't have to match red rock exactly, just be red. I appreciate any input ! Thanks
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I am looking for a recipe for a white or light glaze. I will use it on dark clay, so I want an opaque glaze. Perhaps it should be an ash glaze. I want to burn at 1250C - cone 7 or 8. I just today got my new studio (for the first time in 15 years - hooray). Tomorrow I will order materials so a good answer is urgent - and very appreciated!
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does any one have a recipe for a Bizen like clay body. found this but im told its close but no cigar 75 xx saggar 15 red art 10 custer
