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Stephen Hill's Watercolor Green Pitting


docweathers

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From time to time I'm having problems with Stephen Hill's watercolor green pitting. It's not as bad when I put it over SCM.  Sometimes it's just fine. In all cases, I'm using G mix 6 w/ grog Fired to cone 6. All the results are from the same small batch of glaze.

 

This is the formula that I'm using

 

Water Color Green (Cone 6)

 

 

Custer ...         47.8 

Silica ...          16.9

Lithium Carb ... 4.0

Frit 3124 ...      5.0

Whiting ...       16.0

Strontium Carb ... 7.5

Bentonite ...      2.9

Copper Carb ... 8.0

 

 

 

As a side note, on one pot the pitting actually looked pretty cool since it was very evenly distributed and the color was darker around each pit. Not what I would have planned but an interesting result.

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 Actually the rim is one of the least. areas. Given the distribution of the pits and it's intermittent appearance, I think it's very likely that it's from dust on the bisqueware. I've probably been pretty sloppy about cleaning things off before glazing.  I am firing pretty slowly  with slow cooling... Jon Britt's E3 schedule.

 

I'm hesitant to post pictures, unless it is critical, since last year I ran over my quota and could post no pictures.

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After you bisque, sand your work with coarse sand paper. Then dip your pieces in clean water. Let dry a day. The sand will collect in the bottom of the bucket. you can put it back in your reclaim clay bucket if you wish. that's about it.

TJR.

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Actually there is a slight inaccuracy. It works out to 7.44% copper carbonate. I Mix at 8% in a looks great. Here's the URL where I got it http://www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Glaze-recipes-at-Lakeside-Pottery.htm

 

There are a lot of other nice glazes in that list.

 

I wouldn't use that in functional pieces without testing it first.

 

When you say pitting, do you mean pinholes with rounded edges like a dimple, or sharp edges pits, more like a burst bubble?

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A tried and true glaze, a known clay body, with a tried and true firing schedule in someone else's kiln, someone else's clay eetc. .....may need a slowing and  to try a 15min soak at end of firing. This glaze has obviously, or not, matured nicely for someone somewhere under certain conditions so perhaps testing the high end of the firing may negate the need to fix the glaze. That's where I'd be starting. Perhaps.......testing in your own kiln, nothing beats it.

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The original glaze on the website you gave makes it difficult to convert because the Bentonite and Copper Carb  are usually added as a % later.  Therefore your glaze is slightly different than the website. At any rate it will run.

should be Custer  49.92

                   Silica  17.2

                Lith carb  4.05

                3124        5.06

                whiting    16.19

                Stront       7.59

                  Total     99.98

                  Bent        3.04

            Copper Carb 8.09

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